Austin Vert's Sidestripe Question.

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
None of those issues you mentioned are an issue, they don't happen. Many people seal decals under clearcoat without issue.
+1 Kit.

While I am not professing to be any kind of expert on paintwork, I have never heard about those issues Kit is referring to either. I like it all with the stripes applied and left on top of the paint - just like they were done originally. And they hold up VERY well. Now if you decide to seal them underneath a clearcoat - I would suspect it would be protected and not susceptible to the problems you mentioned. If you are going to keep the car protected from the weather you should be fine with however is chosen to have sidestripes.

And +1 to what Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply (OMS) mentioned about the "Boss 351 type" sidestripes, aka hockey stick stripes available as an option on the 73 hardtops and convertibles only - check out the famed Decor Group mentioned on the lower left of the 73 brochure page below:

dos5ja.jpg


Ray

 
I havn't got any probs with what anybody's saying about painting over decals per say.

There are rare occasions where the decal vinyl and/or adheseve can play up (solvent penetration issues)and cause reaction probs here and there, but on the whole, the process can and does work fairly well.

The key issue is to make sure you get good adhesion with your clearcoat to the vinyl decal itself. Chasing good adhesion to plastics and vinyls has always been a pain in the 'A' for painters.Some decals will have a solvent sensitive face and therefore will present no problem for the clearcoat to key in and adhere. Other brands may not, and will need the surface to be preped up before putting your clear on.

My two most favoured methods to achieve this is - give the decal surface a mild scuff up with a grey Scotchbrite scourer pad, dry, or with 800 wet & dry paper, dry. Then give the decal a very light wipe over with prepsol(wax and grease remover) Then use a good quality brand clear plastics adhesion promoter, over the decal, say one or two light coats, no more.

You could even leave the plastic primer out of the equasion if you want, and just rely on the scuffing alone to do the job.You should get a good key in with that done.

Again, i say for me, i will be putting stripes on top of my finished clearcoat, and leave it at that.

Greg.:)

Hi Eric,

Hope your well,

One quick point if i may. When solvent based basecoat is applied,(and even water based basecoat for that matter), there is a maximum window of basecoat drying time allowed, between when the 2pak clearcoat is applied,and after you have applied your basecoat.Normally, freshly applied basecoat does not require scuffing or anything done to it before you apply your clear providing you apply your clear within the max basecoat drying time.If you happen to go outside the max drying time, you can then rewet the basecoat by reappling more basecoat over what you have sprayed before, or give the base a light scuff with Scothch pad or 800 w&d.Rewetting is best.

This so called time window varies from paint company to paint company.That can be from 20 minutes to a whole day for example.It pays to stick to the manufacturer's time specs to avoid delam probs happening. If you come along and apply your clearcoat after the maximum reccomended window, you will risk the problem of clearcoat delamination for sure.

Delamination is the complete breakdown of adhesion of the clearcoat layer to the basecoat layer. When this problem occurs, you can tear and pull vast sheets of clear off the basecoat, as if you were pulling a sheet off a bed. I've see this prob happen several times in my travels over the years in the trade.Stick to the time rules, and you'll be OK.

Greg.:)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update reply -

I may have to paint my trunk decal on later after i remove the existing one to do a respray later on down the track.

The stripe on now looks good, and has certain proportions to it. American stripe repros iv'e seen so far, don't replicate that look. If i can't get a decal company here in Oz to custom make one up for me, i'll have to spray one on to match what iv'e got now. BTW - pay no attention to the stripes being out of alighnment coming off the trunk and onto the quarter extensions. When i bought the car, the previous owner had them put on, and at that stage, the trunk was out of horizontal alighnment to the extensions.I've realighned the trunk since and that now shows the mis alighnment with the stripes.

IMG_7753.JPG

Greg.:)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update reply -

I may have to paint my trunk decal on later after i remove the existing one to do a respray later on down the track.

The stripe on now looks good, and has certain proportions to it. American stripe repros iv'e seen so far, don't replicate that look. If i can't get a decal company here in Oz to custom make one up for me, i'll have to spray one on to match what iv'e got now.

Greg.:)
I agree...that might be the best looking stripe I've seen. I eliminated it on the back of my car because I didn't like the way that Ford designed them. Yours does have the right proportions for our trunks. :goodone:

I may have more work to do...:huh:

 
That trunk stripe is not a factory-original design. It was made to resemble the mach 1 trunk stripe. The factory design of the mach 1 trunk stripe will not work on a convertible, the trunk lid is too wide ( the stripe will not reach the edges of the lid) and the lock cylinder is not in the same place.

Several years ago there were aftermarket convertible trunk stripes made for just this look, but I haven't seen them in quite a while.

However, it is a fairly simple design. A good painter should be able to mask one out and paint it on no problem.

 
To add to Austin Verts good advice you can also have a mask made to paint the stripes on..I've done lots of painted graphics..I like using a base coat with a unlimited window..I use to use spies hecker which had just that..Some bases do have additives you can use to extend the window..On a simple job like on our mustang side stripe My preferred method is to do your base on the car (if it's a complete) let sit over nite. Come back the next day..spray your stripe..clear the entire stripe area with 1 coat..then clear the entire car with 2 coats of clear..Let dry a day or two..wet sand the edges of the stripe with a block & 1200-1500 wet to lose the stripe edge..Then wet sand the entire car..Apply 2-3 more coats of clear..Keep in mind this more of "show car type finish" If done correct you will not feel the edge of the stripe. If your using a vinyl stripe on a complete then the use of intercoat clear is what I used to use for any vinyl type graphics decals..BEFORE spraying my regular clear the intercoat gives you adhesion & seals the vinyl so you have no issues. You have to be very careful scuffing vinyl graphics usually even if wet sanded you can still see the scuff marks after clear is applied.

 
That trunk stripe is not a factory-original design. It was made to resemble the mach 1 trunk stripe. The factory design of the mach 1 trunk stripe will not work on a convertible, the trunk lid is too wide ( the stripe will not reach the edges of the lid) and the lock cylinder is not in the same place.

Several years ago there were aftermarket convertible trunk stripes made for just this look, but I haven't seen them in quite a while.

However, it is a fairly simple design. A good painter should be able to mask one out and paint it on no problem.
Hi Kit,

Yes that's right, it's not factory. The previous owner who lived in Adelaide, had a local graphics guy custom make the side and trunk stripes on my car.

I never bothered to ask him who did the job, and could it be replicated. I must look into that some time. BTW- your Mustang looks great and i like the stance you've put on it too.

Cheers,

Greg.:)



To add to Austin Verts good advice you can also have a mask made to paint the stripes on..I've done lots of painted graphics..I like using a base coat with a unlimited window..I use to use spies hecker which had just that..Some bases do have additives you can use to extend the window..On a simple job like on our mustang side stripe My preferred method is to do your base on the car (if it's a complete) let sit over nite. Come back the next day..spray your stripe..clear the entire stripe area with 1 coat..then clear the entire car with 2 coats of clear..Let dry a day or two..wet sand the edges of the stripe with a block & 1200-1500 wet to lose the stripe edge..Then wet sand the entire car..Apply 2-3 more coats of clear..Keep in mind this more of "show car type finish" If done correct you will not feel the edge of the stripe. If your using a vinyl stripe on a complete then the use of intercoat clear is what I used to use for any vinyl type graphics decals..BEFORE spraying my regular clear the intercoat gives you adhesion & seals the vinyl so you have no issues. You have to be very careful scuffing vinyl graphics usually even if wet sanded you can still see the scuff marks after clear is applied.
Thanks Scott,

Very good tips for sure. Hope you're keeping well and not too cold over there.

Greg.:)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Eric,

Hope your well,

One quick point if i may. When solvent based basecoat is applied,(and even water based basecoat for that matter), there is a maximum window of basecoat drying time allowed, between when the 2pak clearcoat is applied,and after you have applied your basecoat.Normally, freshly applied basecoat does not require scuffing or anything done to it before you apply your clear providing you apply your clear within the max basecoat drying time.If you happen to go outside the max drying time, you can then rewet the basecoat by reappling more basecoat over what you have sprayed before, or give the base a light scuff with Scothch pad or 800 w&d.Rewetting is best.

This so called time window varies from paint company to paint company.That can be from 20 minutes to a whole day for example.It pays to stick to the manufacturer's time specs to avoid delam probs happening. If you come along and apply your clearcoat after the maximum reccomended window, you will risk the problem of clearcoat delamination for sure.

Delamination is the complete breakdown of adhesion of the clearcoat layer to the basecoat layer. When this problem occurs, you can tear and pull vast sheets of clear off the basecoat, as if you were pulling a sheet off a bed. I've see this prob happen several times in my travels over the years in the trade.Stick to the time rules, and you'll be OK.

Greg.:)
Hey Greg,

Thanks for the explanations - they're helpful in understanding what goes into a good job. ;)

However,

There are literally hundreds of cars rolling around San Angelo with 'clear coat leprosy,' as I like to call it... my Ram being one of them. The roof apparently reached its limit of West Texas sunburn, blistered up, and 'vast sheets of clearcoat' simply lifted and fell/blew off over the span of about 3 weeks. The truck was repainted in 2004 after hail damage, and has spent considerable time in the sun, as there is no kind of parking garage at work, but is under a carport while parked at home.

I totally blame the painter, simply because it was a re-spray over a re-spray, as he got the color wrong with the initial repair. He mixed it up according to the sun-faded color in the bed, not the color code on the door sticker, as he claimed. When I opened the door, there was the original un-faded color in the jamb... so he re-sprayed it again, and had the shortest guy in the shop cut & buff (obviously, a new guy that couldn't reach everything). He did a totally crap job on the roof and hood... but the hood is hanging in there with no issues. Crappy paint, crappy painter, crappy finishing, I don't know for sure. But it seems kind of obvious that the painter simply didn't care in having to correct his mistake - so now I have a paint job that's gone to crap.

And no - that's not the guy who will be painting my '71. But I'm pretty sure he'll be repainting my Ram in the near-future. ;)

The reasoning behind my concerns stems from extreme conditions that I've observed and experienced living in the Desert Southwest... and based on the obvious lack of attention-to-detail I've seen all-too-often. Delamination is the exact thing I'm talking about... it does happen.

One other concern I have about tape stripes under clear coat: sun-fade. Black vinyl simply does not last in the West Texas sun (again, extreme heat and UV, I know) - it fades, gets dull, and sometimes goes 'chalky.' Would it happen if the stripe is sealed under clear coat? Probably not. But good luck replacing the tape stripe if that's the case.

IMHO, if you want a permanent stripe, have it painted by someone who can actually duplicate the stripe and do it right (Roy's car is one of the only ones I've ever seen the painter get the stripes/hood/decals correct by painting them on - it would totally drive me nuts having an error in the stripe/stencil work that couldn't be simply repaired). Otherwise, just put the stripes on-top of the paint, like they did from the factory.

But be careful and do it right... not like this:

photo_07.html


... And that's a magazine feature car.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehicles/mump_1005_1971_ford_mustang_mach_1/

 
IMHO, if you want a permanent stripe, have it painted by someone who can actually duplicate the stripe and do it right (Roy's car is one of the only ones I've ever seen the painter get the stripes/hood/decals correct by painting them on - it would totally drive me nuts having an error in the stripe/stencil work that couldn't be simply repaired). Otherwise, just put the stripes on-top of the paint, like they did from the factory.

But be careful and do it right... not like this:

photo_07.html


... And that's a magazine feature car.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehicles/mump_1005_1971_ford_mustang_mach_1/
I couldn't see the specific picture you were referring to, it didn't attach right but I get your point. And yes, Texas can be brutal on paint and decals. I've gone the painted route myself so we'll see how it holds up. As for getting it like the factory, I'm a mod kinda guy and am doing it the way I think they should have done it - right or wrong. Just like Greg's trunk...I just plain think it looks better than the disproportional way Ford did it. I also do not like the wide gap but again it's all personal preferences. My car will never be mistaken for concourse correct but I will be happy...lol :heart: my :run_horse:

I really do love seeing everyone's thoughts on these topics and it shows how different we all are...not to mention how much I learn!

John

 
I really do love seeing everyone's thoughts on these topics and it shows how different we all are...not to mention how much I learn!

John

+1 John (jhawk635)

Ray

 
IMHO, if you want a permanent stripe, have it painted by someone who can actually duplicate the stripe and do it right (Roy's car is one of the only ones I've ever seen the painter get the stripes/hood/decals correct by painting them on - it would totally drive me nuts having an error in the stripe/stencil work that couldn't be simply repaired). Otherwise, just put the stripes on-top of the paint, like they did from the factory.

But be careful and do it right... not like this:

photo_07.html


... And that's a magazine feature car.

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/featuredvehicles/mump_1005_1971_ford_mustang_mach_1/
I couldn't see the specific picture you were referring to, it didn't attach right but I get your point. And yes, Texas can be brutal on paint and decals. I've gone the painted route myself so we'll see how it holds up. As for getting it like the factory, I'm a mod kinda guy and am doing it the way I think they should have done it - right or wrong. Just like Greg's trunk...I just plain think it looks better than the disproportional way Ford did it. I also do not like the wide gap but again it's all personal preferences. My car will never be mistaken for concourse correct but I will be happy...lol :heart: my :run_horse:

I really do love seeing everyone's thoughts on these topics and it shows how different we all are...not to mention how much I learn!

John
If you're modding it and the painter is doing your stripes the way you want them, that's perfectly fine and I'm sure it will look great! I'm thinking about my car in particular when I mention things like getting the stripes and whatnot correct. No, I'm not wanting concours, either... I just want what I'm getting done to be done right. What I'm doing with mine as far as restomodding goes, is more like 'period correct' mods. I want my car to look like it would've if I'd had one back in the '80s when I started driving. That basically means 15 inch rims, 50/60-series tires, and pretty much whatever the car looked like coming from the factory. I'm honestly still on the fence about whether or not to put the hockey stripe on (it will most likely go on, but still...). Custom paint, stripes, et al, is a purely personal thing and you should do what feels good.

I guess I am a little bit of a nit-picker when it comes to things like stripes and stencils because of my drawing/drafting background. I've got it stuck in my head that "If I can do it right, then why can't someone I'm paying to do it do it right?" Kinda like a tattoo - I don't want someone else's artwork on me... and I don't trust anyone to make it exactly like I drew it - I've seen too many mistakes. Not to mention that I just haven't found the one I absolutely must have.

That's probably also why I usually tell the ladies at Supercuts to just leave my sideburns alone and I'll take care of 'edging them' - because they always manage to screw 'em up. rofl

 
Lookin' sweet! ::thumb::

There's definitely no question as to how straight those stripes are - nice job! ;) :D

 
Back
Top