edelbrock intake install

[jpaz]

I finally got the right intake gaskets for my Performer intake. Needed 4v gaskets.

My question is does it matter if I put gasketchinch on the entire head side of the gasket? I put it over the printoseal, will this be ok or will it cause leaks? Thank's

 

[jpaz]

Well I went ahead and installed the manifold. Hopefully I don't have any problems.

 

[TommyK]

What part number gasket are you using?

I used gaskacinch just like you. I didn't have any issues. I don't think you will either.

 

[jpaz]

I'm using Fel-Pro #1228. Summit sold me the wrong ones, those were Edelbrock #7265 for 2v heads & I have 4v's. Edelbrock doesn't even make gaskets for the 4v heads. Just got the manifold all torqued down, finally.

 

[EdM]

I just did an intake manifold gasket replacement. I used the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal gaskets as you did but I only applied Gaskacinch on the heads gluing the gaskets to them. The manifold side was left dry.

 

[jpaz]

I left the manifold side dry as well.

 

[EdM]

I am confused as you wrote, "put it over the printoseal"? This is the side that I installed against the intake manifold.

 

[jpaz]

The printoseal side is supposed to go on the cylinder head side, not the intake side.

 

[jpaz]

Here are some pics of my new manifold & carb installed on my 351 Cleveland. I started it up last night, but it was running very rough. I pulled the distributor to help ease the manifold removal & installation.

I marked the distributor so I could get back in the correct way, but I may be off a tooth, but not sure. I was pretty sure I got it back in so my marks lined up.

Had to remove & try again, but got to tired to go any further, it was a long day. I will try again later.

Once I get it running good I will clean up the wiring routing, put the right c-clip on trans kick down & make it look a bit cleaner.

View attachment 28330View attachment 28331View attachment 28332View attachment 28333View attachment 28334

 

[Elizabeth73]

Looks great! I am really liking those solid lines. Ill be replacing all of mine with something a little clearer like those. How do you like the electric choke? I have nothing attached to my edelbrock 4bbl but I am considering adding an electric choke.

 

[jpaz]

I will like the electric choke, the stock choke was controlled by heat. Should work better, but I still need to get it running good first.

Solid lines? Do you mean the chrome dual feed line? I really like the look, but it actually had to put it on backward or up side down. My coil & A/C lines were in the way, so I flipped it around & should work nice. Thank's Liz

 

[72HCODE]

FYI be careful with that chrome double pumper fuel line.

I have had 2 of those fail at the inlet bulb where the 2 lines split for front and rear bowls. fuel sprayed all over.

The only thing i trust and use now is AN Fitting fuel lines.

something like this

for the 4150 or 4160 style double pumpers.

Second, that Glass fuel filter is a mega fire hazard, most car shows have banned them. the glass/plastic is known to crack or split leak fuel and cause fires.

while you cannot see the fuel quality the best is a 1 piece stamped steel filter placed lower down by the fuel pump away from the engine in case of leaks.

another word of caution: the double stack fittings you have by the fuel bowls where you tied the double pumper line into the original holley fittings are known to weep fuel and leak.

the best is you must remove the holley inlet fittings and metal gasket, take out the spring and the brass filters inside the inlets to the fuel bowls and go with a 1 piece design without the internal filters, and just use the main fuel line metal filter by the pump. then you go to the 1 piece fuel line inlet without out the adapters that matches the fuel bowl inlet threads as a one piece with gasket.

for now just keep an eye on it for a while if you spot wetness on the intake manifold or smell gas start looking at that double pumper fuel line and all around and under it for the leak, ditch it for the AN fittings.

i'm not a big fan of the latest holley fuel bowl site glass design either, it is a massive improvement from the site plugs that holley had to inspect the fuel bowl levels, however it can crack and then you have a leak. nothing you can do about that however with the newer design they have now. old one used brass plugs and seals and when you needed to inspect then you either had gas leak out the site hole or you installed temporary plexy glass plugs to check the levels then took them out to put the brass plugs back in. the brass plugs and seals are much safer but hinder adjustments.

 

[jpaz]

Thank You 72HCODE! I will for sure do what you recommend. I was going to move the fuel filter anyway, but I think I will just get a good one piece filter, like you said, when I get it running good. I think my distributor is off a tooth, cause when I started it last night, it was running pretty rough. I am trying to do again later today

At least I have no leaks, yet.

 

[Totalled]

You have the carb feed on backwards...?

 

[jpaz]

I finally got it running! It took me quite a few try's to get the distributor in right. Man that was a mother! I thought I marked it so I could get it back in the correct place, but I didn't I guess.

Ended up just setting the crank to just before TDC. Then I installed distributor so I could be able to set the advance without hitting the water hose. The PO had it to far to the right, was right up against the hose, and it was pretty loose. I could turn the dist. very easily, didn't even know it.

When I started it tonight, it fired right up, just had to advance the dist. a bit. Let it idle for a while to let the choke come off and seemed to be running pretty good. Still need to time it, got to tired and will do that tomorrow. Weather is supposed to be nice so I'll be able to take it for a few test drives to.

I think the most difficult thing to do was reinstalling the distributor. I checked on here quite a few times and got great advice. Thank's to all!. I can't remember who said to use a glob of grease to help hold the oil pump shaft centered, but thank you, it was the only way to do it I think. It was pretty tough, but I got it!

You have the carb feed on backwards...?

Yes, it was hitting the coil. And I sill have the original steel fuel line coming from the pump, so it actually works out good this way for now. With all the stuff up front I have, there wasn't a real good spot to run it.

I will make some changes, just want to get it running good for now.

 

[Paul of MO]

I noticed that also,

Choices:

Backwards if running an electric pump mounted back by the tank. Keeps the lines nicely away from the hot stuff and looks very clean. Makes the use of hard lines for the main and return lines much easier. Don't particularly like running the lines down the trans tunnel cause drive shafts do break - that plus fuel = bad, but I have done this before.

Forwards if running a stock mechanical pump. Keeps the length of hose to a minimum.

Looks like you are running a mechanical pump but have the lines pointing to the rear.

I would change this - way to long of fuel line running around the hot engine compartment. Probably looking at vapor locks and hot hard starting issues.

Also noticed your PVC from the drivers valve cover is running to the carb - be sure it is going to a port below the butterflies and not above. PVC needs full vacuum to operate. You also want one on the passenger side as well. I run mine to an open port on the manifold and not the carb.

- Paul

 

[EdM]

I suggest you add a throttle stop and throttle return springs too.

 

[jpaz]

I noticed that also,

Choices:

Backwards if running an electric pump mounted back by the tank. Keeps the lines nicely away from the hot stuff and looks very clean. Makes the use of hard lines for the main and return lines much easier. Don't particularly like running the lines down the trans tunnel cause drive shafts do break - that plus fuel = bad, but I have done this before.

Forwards if running a stock mechanical pump. Keeps the length of hose to a minimum.

Looks like you are running a mechanical pump but have the lines pointing to the rear.

I would change this - way to long of fuel line running around the hot engine compartment. Probably looking at vapor locks and hot hard starting issues.

Also noticed your PVC from the drivers valve cover is running to the carb - be sure it is going to a port below the butterflies and not above. PVC needs full vacuum to operate. You also want one on the passenger side as well. I run mine to an open port on the manifold and not the carb.

- Paul

Thank's Paul, I will be changing fuel line. You have a very good point. Didn't really think about vapor lock or it being to long.

The port I have connected to the PCV valve is for the PCV. That's how the carb is set up. The port on the rear of carb says to use for brake assist. I have an open breather on the passenger side, so I think that should work, the crankcase is still breathing, right or am I missing something? Thank You

I suggest you add a throttle stop and throttle return springs too.

My stock throttle line has a return spring built in it, but I should add a second one for safety, not sure what a throttle stop is though.

 

[Paul of MO]

The PVC needs a little suction to pull the fumes into the manifold. Not a real performance issue but it will reduce the odors you smell in the car.

A second spring is always a good idea for safety - nothing heavy or complicated, just enough pull to close the throttle if the other spring were to break.

The glass fuel filter as others have said is bad.

- Paul