Evapo-Rust... Anyone use this?

[mach1000]

Anyone use this stuff? Does it work? Do you have to "clean" the parts after you use it? Problems painting parts after you use it? Does it really remove the rust? I have a hard time believing it takes the place of sanding, grinding, sandblasting etc..

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I used some. It works slowly, but it works well. Didn't have any trouble with paint afterwards. I was using it on brackets though

 

[Mister 4x4]

I put some in a jar, and dumped a bunch of fastners into the mix (so it was something like 60/40 Evapo-Rust-to-fasteners ratio). Works slow (I might've had too many fasteners in there), but after awhile (several hours) it seemed to do the job. Not spotless, but what was left was not rust. I painted the bolt heads with engine enamel, then soaked 'em in WD-40 and installed as appropriate.

So far, so good.

 

[jeff8877]

I have had great luck with it...I bought a 5 gallon container of it and use it on small and large stuff. No more sandblasting and works better. I use a plastic tub with a lid for larger stuff and usually leave in a day or two..pull out and rinse off...great stuff.

Jeff

 

[sdstang]

yes, works very slow. Works ok for stuff you can put in a jar or bucket and "set it and forget it".

 

[mach1000]

What do you wash the parts off with? Water then dry them quickly before they flash rust?

 

[midlife]

What do you wash the parts off with? Water then dry them quickly before they flash rust?

Exactly. I'd also recommend applying a heat gun to them to evaporate any residual moisture after washing to further reduce the chance of flash rust.

 

[LCB1]

Works great, use it on all the nuts and bolts. Soak them overnight, rinse with water, dry and paint

 

[goodnigh]

I remember using Naval Jelly a time or two.

mike

 

[mach1000]

How about the spray bomb "rust converter"? You would spray it on the rust and it would turn the rust black. Supposed to stop it... Not really..

 

[mustang7173]

All,

I might be a little skeptical here on this one. Maybe on the small parts and hardware, it works well. I have used the leading rust prevention solutions and end up later down the road by either sand blasting and or cutting the pieces out. My reason behind my skepticism here is that I will be installing my second vinyl top. The first time, I used a popular rust inhibitor product, followed the directions, painted it and less than two years, rust bubble started to show.

So, I stripped it down again, removed all of the glue, and hired a company with a portable Sand Blaster. By the way, the portable sand blaster had a modified Ford 302 as the pump. Any, he used a media that just plainly stripped the rust off of the top, doors, and places I wanted Blasted. We, then cleaned the area, then applied the metal treatment Ospho, 24 hrs later, applied etching primer, epoxy primer. This was processed in and around 2009 2010 time frame. No Rust has appeared.

Unfortunately, I did not blast the panel behind the back windshield area and my body man discovered rust holes where I had previously used the rust inhibitors. Disappointment galore! Thought we were almost most done with the cutting and replacing! So, now I am retrieving another back panel along with the lower curves for the back window, to replace the rusted area.

Has anybody used the rust treatment OSPHO? It is a balanced formula of Phosphoric acid, Sodium Dichromate, Surfactants, and Extenders. This stuff will work on your skin too!

Ospho -Rust Treatment

http://www.ospho.com/index.htm

So, I am going to run down to the local Advanced Auto store a buy some Evapo-Rust and try it out.

mustang7173

 

[bkdunha]

Many of the concourse guys I speak with use this. www.deoxydoesit.com

I am planning to go the difficult route of Zinc Phosphating the correct parts with the concentrate from from these guys. It requires more prep, supplies and work, but it is closest to the original finish on various pieces. http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/Palmetto_Enterprises/-About_Palmetto_Enterprises-.html

 

[mustang7173]

Brian,

Thank You for the info. Check out this Mustang Monthly document I printed out in 1991.

mustang7173


Brian,

Rats! Hit the wrong button. Here is an old article that about finishes.

How To: Identify "Natural" Parts Finishes-

Source: Mustang Monthly, November 1991, pp, 44, 45,and 46

Source: Bob Perkins, Perkins Restoration, Juneau, Wisconsin

mustang7173

 

[Obsidian11]

Straight phosphoric acid works the best in my opinion. You can get a gallon at Home Depot made by Kleen-Strip for about 15 bucks. You can use it full strength or cut it with water. Be sure to neutralize it afterward with plenty of water and/or isopropyl alcohol before painting it. I still use a good etch primer on the metal after the PA as added insurance. Deeper rust pits do have to soak a bit, I wet some thick paper towels with the PA put them on the area and then cover with plastic. Leave it for a while then rinse it down with another dose cut with water then rinse with water. The scary part is when the rust is all the way through and you don't know it till you rinse it off to reveal pin holes!

Smaller stuff can soak in a bucket for a while.

 

[Qcode351mach]

We, then cleaned the area, then applied the metal treatment Ospho, 24 hrs later, applied etching primer, epoxy primer. This was processed in and around 2009 2010 time frame. No Rust has appeared.

mustang7173

Not knowing which epoxy you used but almost all are not to be put over anything containing acid..Major mistake to put epoxy over etching primer..As an example I pulled a tech sheet from Valspar on their epoxy primer bold letters "do not apply over self etching primers" http://www.valsparrefinish.com/downloads/Valspar_TDS/VP50_TDS_ROW.pdf Guys if your using epoxy, never ever apply it over self etch primers. You will have an adhesion delamination problem for sure. Also if your using anything to remove rust that contains acid it must be neutralized before applying epoxy..Always read the tech sheets before application.

 

[midlife]

Evaporust is highly recommended by the concours guys because it leaves the original paint dabs visible after immersion.

 

[mustang7173]

All,

Ok! I will ask my body man about what is being used. It might be standard primer. Thank you for the information!

Mustang7173

 

[mustang7173]

Hello Qcode351mach,

So, I called my body man and asked about the primer he used. It is PPG DP90 LF Epoxy Primer that can be sprayed over etching primer.

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProductCatalog/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=c98c3f28-89c5-467d-9983-e87c240f4c09

Q, I agree with you on the reading of the datasheet. It is important to read first.

mustang7173