Flat Tappet Engine Oil

[rolandmhall]

Just wondering what everyone is using for oil after their break-in periods for the flat tappet motors?

After talking to my builder (Dasco Race Engies) here in STL, he told me that he prefers either the Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs oil as they both have high zinc content.

Just about through my break-in period and will be changing oil soon.

Just wondering what the consensus was before I made a decision

 

[T-K]

I run DynoCat 20-50 mineral oil on my 351 C 4v, plenty of zink. But this is in Norway.

Have also been told Joe Gibbs is a very good oil for our engines. Not only the high zink level, but the correct balance of additives also.

 

[marks73]

I use Rotella it still has the zink in it to protct the cam.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I have used Rotella in my gas engines for many years. I t does have higher zinclevels, but no where close to those of Gibbs. I bought a case of Competition Cams break in oil, only to later realize it is a parrafin based oil. I set the left over aside for future engine builds and am now running http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/1595-12/10002/-1?parentProductId=1354642

 

[marks73]

I have used Rotella in my gas engines for many years. I t does have higher zinclevels, but no where close to those of Gibbs. I bought a case of Competition Cams break in oil, only to later realize it is a parrafin based oil. I set the left over aside for future engine builds and am now running http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/1595-12/10002/-1?parentProductId=1354642

WOW! kinda pricey Jeff! A little overkill I think, but I can understand guarenteed to protect your cam and engine work.

 

[Don65Stang]

Zinc or zinc/phosphorus is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. The amount of ZDDP was reduced because it clogs up the catalytic converter on the "newer" vehicles.

 


One has to define "high enough" ZDDP content. The optimal zinc and phosphorus content is is between 1200 and 1600 ppm. Up to 2000ppm is ok. The highest ppm I've seen is 1850. Additives could put you over 2000 ppm if used with oil that already has a high level of ZDDP. I am not a fan of oil additives of any type or brand.

 


A few popular oils that have the correct ZDDP content are:


Mobil 1 15w-50. Full synthetic oil.


Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w-30. Conventional, non-synthetic oil.


Rotella T and Rotella T6 Syn 5W-40.

 


I personally like synthetic oils and use the Mobil 1 15w-50 & Rotella T6 in all my flat tappet engines.

 


Some of the Rotella oils have low ZDDP levels. Make sure you buy the Rotella T or Rotella T6 oil. I use Rotella T6 in my diesel excursion. It's a diesel oil but can be used in gas engines and work just as well.

 


Lab analysis of Rotella T6:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2330040#Post2330040

Mobil 1 Product Guide:[/b] http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6/

Everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil: (VERY informative and a good read)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

 

[goodnigh]

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 10W/30.

Has high zinc and phosphorous content.

My engine is a high compression four barrel Cleveland

with a "mild" cam recently rebuilt.

It cost about $8 but your engine is worth it.

mike

 

[c9zx]

Zinc or zinc/phosphorus is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. The amount of ZDDP was reduced because it clogs up the catalytic converter on the "newer" vehicles.

 


One has to define "high enough" ZDDP content. The optimal zinc and phosphorus content is is between 1200 and 1600 ppm. Up to 2000ppm is ok. The highest ppm I've seen is 1850. Additives could put you over 2000 ppm if used with oil that already has a high level of ZDDP. I am not a fan of oil additives of any type or brand.

 


A few popular oils that have the correct ZDDP content are:


Mobil 1 15w-50. Full synthetic oil.


Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w-30. Conventional, non-synthetic oil.


Rotella T and Rotella T6 Syn 5W-40.

 


I personally like synthetic oils and use the Mobil 1 15w-50 & Rotella T6 in all my flat tappet engines.

 


Some of the Rotella oils have low ZDDP levels. Make sure you buy the Rotella T or Rotella T6 oil. I use Rotella T6 in my diesel excursion. It's a diesel oil but can be used in gas engines and work just as well.

 


Lab analysis of Rotella T6:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2330040#Post2330040

Mobil 1 Product Guide:[/b] http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6/

Everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil: (VERY informative and a good read)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

Big +1 on Don's post! NO additives. I use Joe Gibbs, Maxima, or Amsoil equivalent in all flat tappet engines, cheap insurance. Chuck

 

[Tnfastbk]

Just go roller and let the worries go away

 

[T-K]

Just go roller and let the worries go away

+1 on that ::thumb::dancebanana

 

[Don65Stang]

This is very interesting ZDDP info from the Bob the Oil Guy site: (see last 3 paragraphs)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-107/

 

[1971mach1]

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil 10W/30.

Has high zinc and phosphorous content.

My engine is a high compression four barrel Cleveland

with a "mild" cam recently rebuilt.

It cost about $8 but your engine is worth it.

mike

Amazon has a case for $63 -that's 5.25/quart. Napa Auto Supply also has a case for about same.

 

[Don65Stang]

AMSOIL Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRT) looks like a winner too.

http://www.c66racing-synthetics.com/Product%20Bulletins/ZRTPB.htm



Also have a winner with Royal Purple Synthetic HPS.

Royal Purple HPS and XPR lines of engine oils are formulated with a higher concentration of these elements and are suitable for both roller and flat tappet valve trains.

HPS™ – High Performance Street Motor Oil

Royal Purple HPS Series motor oil is specifically formulated to maximize performance and meet the demands of high performance and modified engines. HPS is recommended for vehicles no longer under manufacturer warranty and for those seeking a higher level of performance and protection.

This unique blend enables HPS to outperform leading synthetics and conventional lubricants for both gasoline and diesel engines. Royal Purple’s HPS is fortified with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additive and Royal Purple’s proprietary Synerlec® additive technology. Available viscosities include: 5W-20, 5W-30, 10W-30, 10W-40 and 20W-50.

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product-categories/automotive/#!hps-motor-oil


What viscosity oil do I need?

 


Answer from Bob the oil guy:

"The best way to figure out what viscosity of oil you need is to drive the car in the conditions you will use. Then use the oil viscosity that gives you 10 PSI per 1,000 RPM under those circumstances. For some reason very few people are able to get this simple principal correct. I cannot explain further."

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-105/

 

[c9zx]

Just go roller and let the worries go away

+1 on that ::thumb::dancebanana

Guys, You may want to click on the link and spend a few minutes with the information. Chuck

http://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_nf=1&qe=cm9sbGVyIGxp&qesig=GUFOdjFjrVX57qdIV8AU2w&pkc=AFgZ2tlqZ7NkrSY3mLJQ9oY4rYS6ISBHczIdO2GfED7X6ZOwe1uLcKZ4_esOF4P7WHvRJgfkU-MPHGh_3EXo785aBcgRIbe0iQ&cp=9&gs_id=y&xhr=t&q=roller+lifter+failures&pf=p&output=search&sclient=psy-ab&oq=roller+li&gs_l=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&fp=42fb278275950100&biw=1593&bih=978

 

[hyena429]

Snake oil salesmen!! hehe jk..{Thumbs up on Don's post}

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I have used Rotella in my gas engines for many years. I t does have higher zinclevels, but no where close to those of Gibbs. I bought a case of Competition Cams break in oil, only to later realize it is a parrafin based oil. I set the left over aside for future engine builds and am now running http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/1595-12/10002/-1?parentProductId=1354642

WOW! kinda pricey Jeff! A little overkill I think, but I can understand guarenteed to protect your cam and engine work.

I didn't say that I bought it from that source or that I paid that price.

I grew up in Memphis and there are a number of Automotive Aftermarket High Performance companies in the area. RHS, Competition Cam, Lunati (across the State line in Olive Branch), and a few others. I have an odd contact or two left and I get it during my visits so I pay no shipping, just tax.

Still it isn't cheap, but it really isn't much more than any other full synthetic would be and I only change my oil once a year most years.

 

[marks73]

Zinc or zinc/phosphorus is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. The amount of ZDDP was reduced because it clogs up the catalytic converter on the "newer" vehicles.

 


One has to define "high enough" ZDDP content. The optimal zinc and phosphorus content is is between 1200 and 1600 ppm. Up to 2000ppm is ok. The highest ppm I've seen is 1850. Additives could put you over 2000 ppm if used with oil that already has a high level of ZDDP. I am not a fan of oil additives of any type or brand.

 


A few popular oils that have the correct ZDDP content are:


Mobil 1 15w-50. Full synthetic oil.


Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (VR1) 10w-30. Conventional, non-synthetic oil.


Rotella T and Rotella T6 Syn 5W-40.

 


I personally like synthetic oils and use the Mobil 1 15w-50 & Rotella T6 in all my flat tappet engines.

 


Some of the Rotella oils have low ZDDP levels. Make sure you buy the Rotella T or Rotella T6 oil. I use Rotella T6 in my diesel excursion. It's a diesel oil but can be used in gas engines and work just as well.

 


Lab analysis of Rotella T6:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2330040#Post2330040

Mobil 1 Product Guide:[/b] http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6/

Everything you ever wanted to know about motor oil: (VERY informative and a good read)

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

+1 to that Don. That's why I use it.

I have used Rotella in my gas engines for many years. I t does have higher zinclevels, but no where close to those of Gibbs. I bought a case of Competition Cams break in oil, only to later realize it is a parrafin based oil. I set the left over aside for future engine builds and am now running http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/1595-12/10002/-1?parentProductId=1354642

WOW! kinda pricey Jeff! A little overkill I think, but I can understand guarenteed to protect your cam and engine work.

I didn't say that I bought it from that source or that I paid that price.

I grew up in Memphis and there are a number of Automotive Aftermarket High Performance companies in the area. RHS, Competition Cam, Lunati (across the State line in Olive Branch), and a few others. I have an odd contact or two left and I get it during my visits so I pay no shipping, just tax.

Still it isn't cheap, but it really isn't much more than any other full synthetic would be and I only change my oil once a year most years.

Not being critical or judgemental Jeff. This is one of the leading discussions in engine maintenane these days. And, as you point out. How

many miles and how often do we change the oil in our motors for those that aren't dailey drivers? as Don points out. There are always alternatitives when you do your homework and not get caught up in the "Your about to destroy your motor!" hype. :goodpost:

 

[72fastback]

I use Brad Penn high performance 15 w 40 partial synthetic part #009-7158

click on product bulletin for info on the oil

http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/SAE-15W40.aspx

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I didn't think you were being critical. I change the oil once a year whether it needs it or not. I rarely manage more that 3500 miles a year and my car is stored indoors and not driven in cold weather since I have summer tires on it.

I believe most of the premium oils intended for our cars give pretty much the same performance and I doubt I'd ever notice a difference.

You have to also understand where I am in my thinking.

I went thru the top end of my engine, but not the bottom end. I will need a rebuild at some point, but my bearings looked fine though the bores had developed a ring groove and my compression test was more than 15% difference from best to worst cylinders. I did not repeat with the new heads and was hoping for a stuck ring which might free up or a worn cam lobe on the old cam.

My car sits for sometimes a week, sometimes three and then I may cruise a few hundred miles on a drive, or I may drive like a teenager for an hour or two. My goal is to continue to complete my modifications until it runs and drives to my complete satisfaction, then to pull the engine for a rebuild with forged flat top pistons.