New intake- need to remove distributer?

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cazsper

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May 30, 2012
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My Car
1968 Coupe: 393w, TKO-600, Maier Racing springs, Global West suspension, Currie 9in with forged axles, 3.50 gears, Trutrac, Baer brakes front/rear
1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
I just bought an Air Gap for my 351C. Do I need to remove my distributer?

 
It would certainly help, but if you can work around it you don't "need" to.

 
I would remove it. The front and rear seals are very prone to leaking if the manifold isn't set down squarely. While you can slip it into position with the distributor in place, it is harder to get it on perfectly. I use threaded rod in the 4 big bolt holes when putting the manifold on to help guide it into place (then remove and use bolts) but the distributor will get in the way of doing it in this manner.

It isn't that hard to pull a distributor. If you are hesitant to do so, it is time to tackle the task and get comfortable with it.

 
+2

I would remove it. Much less chance of the rubber seals shifting and leaking. Using the small threaded studs to help align the manifold works really well.

 
Yep easier to remover dizzy. Just make sure you use a sharpie and mark the distributor, where the rotor is pointing and a mark on the block. then when you put it back in you can just line up all the sharpie marks. Just make sure you don't turn the motor over while the dizzy is out. Also what Jeff said about all thread is good idea definitely helps with alignment. Also just my personal preference, I never use the rubber seals at the end of the intake. I use a nice fat bead of silicone and call it done. I have had those damn rubber seals leak more than once on me.

 
When you go to take it out, be cautious that the oil drive doesn't start to come out with it and then drop back down into the motor. Remove it slowly.

Of course, cover or plug the hole.

 
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