replacing heater hose

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Joined
Apr 8, 2015
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Location
Upstate NY
My Car
71 Mach 1, 351c 4v, C6 trans, grabber blue with white interior
I'd like to replace my heater hoses ( no A/C ) on my 71 but dont really want to get into replacing the heater core at this time.

Is this a fairly straightforward process of removing the hoses from the firewall and from the engine / water pump and replacing with new?

Anything to be careful of? I have read a post here where the copper fitting for the heater core pulled out when they were removing the firewall hose.

Is this typical of what happens or can it be avoided if the hoses are sliced off and not pulled?

Thanks!

 
Straight up job with bulk 5/8" hose. As Don C said, be sure to cut as much of the hose as possible off the tube and pry the rest off carefully with a small screw driver. NO twisting of the hose! I was going to replace a heater hose on a Fox Mustang I owned. I cut the hose to what I thought was enough and gave the hose a good twist and a pull. Out comes the hose and core tube! Can't print what I said once I realized what had happened. Just take your time and you'll avoid any "Nightmare" repairs!!

 
Like has been said split it and peel it. One thing I do that has never came loose and been doing for many years. I clean the copper/brass tube with steel wool and put a little never seize on it . Never had one blow off and it comes off easy the next time. There is only 15 lbs. or so of pressure on the system if working correctly. If your clamps are rusty get new ones.

David

 
Like has been said split it and peel it. One thing I do that has never came loose and been doing for many years. I clean the copper/brass tube with steel wool and put a little never seize on it . Never had one blow off and it comes off easy the next time. There is only 15 lbs. or so of pressure on the system if working correctly. If your clamps are rusty get new ones.

David
Just a question, do you mean the same "anti-seize" used on sparkplugs and bolts? I am about to replace my radiator and hoses. My core is only a couple years old, but still.............

 
Thanks for the tips about being careful.

Is it necessary to drain the radiator to do this to remove coolant from the heater hoses? Does draining the radiator even empty the heater hoses??

 
Drain the system as much as possible, but be prepared for residual coolant here and there. Never-seize works fine, but I've always used a little bit of bearing grease inside the hose to assist with sliding it on. It will help with removal unless its been a year or so. Be careful not to cut through the hose into the copper tubing.

 
Drain the system as much as possible, but be prepared for residual coolant here and there. Never-seize works fine, but I've always used a little bit of bearing grease inside the hose to assist with sliding it on. It will help with removal unless its been a year or so. Be careful not to cut through the hose into the copper tubing.
+1 on being carful not to cut or score the copper tubing. Copper is a very soft metal and scoring it can cause a future leak.

 
It is a simple job. Cut the hose off and peel it off the fitting. Radiator needs to be drained down below the top of the water pump. You can clamp the old line with vice grips to seal it before cutting it off on the heater core side. Have your new hoses ready to slide on with clamps loosely in place.

Clamp hose 8-10" away from the heater core, cut off heater core, clean and prep heater core, remove clamps at water pump, cut hoses along the the length of the nipple, pull hose off and slide new hose on holding the free end above the highest point of the cooling system. Repeat for the second hose. Tighten all clamps and refill system.

As long as you keep the free end of the hoses above the level of the system, it won't siphon and you'll lose little coolant. If you are quick, you can do it without draining the system and will only lose a quart or less of coolant, but it does make a mess. I do suggest covering the alternator with plastic to keep any coolant splash off of it.

 
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