Restoring grille area (paint questions)

[Monterey]

Hello,

I'm in the process of cleaning up the front of my 73 convertible from the radiator support forward.  I've pulled everything off the front and am putting it back together, cleaning, painting, and replacing parts including all bolts, nuts, screws.  Here are my questions.

1.  I think there are only a few things in the front that needs to be painted argent.  The hood latch mechanism (not the vertical support for it) and the two parking light/turn signal bodies (not sure of the exact name).  Is this the correct argent paint or would you recommend something else?  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Fluid-PM-19K207-AA-Argent/dp/B000NUAT12/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515638344&sr=8-1&keywords=ford+PM19K207AA

2.  I ordered a Mach 1 grille to replace my "standard" grille.  The new grille is very shiny black plastic and I'm wondering if it needs to be painted.  Maybe a satin or semi-glass?

3.  All other metal in the front including headlight buckets, brackets, etc. should be painted satin black, correct?  What brand and type of paint do you recommend?  I think this is the same paint that is used in the engine compartment and I'd like it to match if possible.

4.  Any suggestions on painting the bumper supports as shown in the picture?  They are pretty rough.

5.  Has anyone documented this process?



It's a front-end makeover and I'm hoping to get it right the first time.Thank you!

 

[JD79]

Hi,

1 ) The hood latch is normally not painted. It supposed the have a black phosphate coating . There is a NOS for sale on eBay, it shows the original color, which is like dark grey.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1971-1972-1973-FORD-MUSTANG-OR-MACH-1-HOOD-LATCH-ASSEMBLY-CONCOURS-CORRECT/142636986840?epid=1360424420&hash=item2135d3b1d8:g:QOsAAOSwPzhaQt0-&vxp=mtr

2 ) The reproduction grille is more shiny than the original version because it is made of a different plastic. The original is like satin black. I did buy the reproduction and a NOS. The reproduction needs to be repainted , the NOS doesn’t. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-grille-finish-71-73?page=3&highlight=Grille

3 ) I think you are right . Haven’t restored my car yet , but it looks like it is the same as the engine compartment.

4 ) Your bumper support arms look really good! I saw a NOS set on eBay a couple of months ago, they had a thin black coating and a bit of surface rust , not much better than yours...

5 ) Not yet... ;-)

 

[rackerm]

Hi,

1 ) The hood latch is normally not painted. It supposed the have a black phosphate coating . There is a NOS for sale on eBay, it shows the original color, which is like dark grey.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1971-1972-1973-FORD-MUSTANG-OR-MACH-1-HOOD-LATCH-ASSEMBLY-CONCOURS-CORRECT/142636986840?epid=1360424420&hash=item2135d3b1d8:g:QOsAAOSwPzhaQt0-&vxp=mtr

2 ) The reproduction grille is more shiny than the original version because it is made of a different plastic. The original is like satin black. I did buy the reproduction and a NOS. The reproduction needs to be repainted , the NOS doesn’t. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-grille-finish-71-73?page=3&highlight=Grille

3 ) I think you are right . Haven’t restored my car yet , but it looks like it is the same as the engine compartment.

4 ) Your bumper support arms look really good! I saw a NOS set on eBay a couple of months ago, they had a thin black coating and a bit of surface rust , not much better than yours...

5 ) Not yet... ;-)

I completed my 73 vert last spring. Ther pages contain pics of my NOS grill, and front grill support area, and headlight buckets, etc. You can find my build thread here .. https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-convertible-restoration-project?page=2

1) JD79 is correct regarding the Phosphate and oil. This is the same for the hood hinges and the shock tower caps. The phosphating process can be done at home (see uTube), but it takes some time and money to set it up. Find somebody local who does it. The other cheaper and easier option is to paint them, but not with Argent. I would bead blast the parts to give them a nice metal finish and lightly spray them with a clear matte or low gloss. Sandblasting is too harsh and leaves the parts looking rough.

2)  If you repaint your repro grill use a low gloss black, not semi. You will need to paint the inner frame of the headlight bezels as well, as Ford did with the Mach I grills. If you use a spray can try Dupli-color 1634 Low Gloss Black.



3) Not all parts on the grill support and headlight buckets were painted semi-gloss black. To be correct the headlight bucket base and rear brackets and the center grill and latch support were painted "Slop Grey". Slop Grey was a greenish grey to a medium grey color. As the story goes, Ford painted various parts with leftover paint all thrown together making it grey. I personally think the Greenish Grey is more accurate as it matched the original paint on all my 73 Dearborn built cars over the years, but the color definitely varied so it's debatable. NPD carries a version of Slop Grey in a can. While you are at it, the shock tower braces, (outer spring) shock tower covers, and the rear bumper support brackets were also painted slop grey. Not the small center grill extension bracket, that was painted semi-gloss black. 

Here are pics of both the lighter "grayer" slop grey and the darker "greenish" slop grey....





4) Bumper supports were Chassis black.

5) There are plenty of pictures from many project posted on the forum... https://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-individual-project-build-threads-and-blogs

Good luck!

Rich

 

[timachone]

Rich,

concerning the headlight bucket base plates and the rear bumper supports: never heard of that and seen in pictures, that they had to be in slop gray. My rear bumper supports don't seem do be ever overpainted (one of the few parts which are not) and they are black. The rear brackets of the headlight bucket is known to be in slop gray as we can see in some photos on diverse concourse sites and pictures. But I did not know about the baseplate. On Monday I gave the paint shop an order to paint them semi-gloss black with the buckets and the rear brackets in slop gray. The rear bumper supports will also be black. Don't know if I had to change that order (if I can) because this is the first time I heard of this. That the latch support have to be and the bumper support brackets is a fact. What's with the outer shock tower covers? Any further information on this?

Thanks

 

[rackerm]

Tim,

I am traveling and have limited access to my picture library at the moment. Here is a pic of the shock tower cover in slop gray. Note the shock tower cover in the picture is not a repro part and had most of the original greenish slop gray. I matched it when I repainted them.



Here is a picture of the Headlight bucket area on a Low Mileage unrestored 73 convertible, note the slop gray color on the bottom and back brackets. 



I don't think it matters much whether the rear bumper mounts are bare metal, semi gloss black, or slop gray. It is likely that all three were used, especially bare or black finish as a service replacement part.

I post more later today.

Rich

 

[timachone]

Rich,

that are very good photos - it is the first time I see that so clearly ::thumb:: 

Thanks!

More pictures of such things are welcome - especially on the Concourse-Forum here...

 

[Monterey]

2)  If you repaint your repro grill use a low gloss black, not semi. You will need to paint the inner frame of the headlight bezels as well, as Ford did with the Mach I grills. If you use a spray can try Dupli-color 1634 Low Gloss Black.



3) Not all parts on the grill support and headlight buckets were painted semi-gloss black. To be correct the headlight bucket base and rear brackets and the center grill and latch support were painted "Slop Grey". Slop Grey was a greenish grey to a medium grey color. As the story goes, Ford painted various parts with leftover paint all thrown together making it grey. I personally think the Greenish Grey is more accurate as it matched the original paint on all my 73 Dearborn built cars over the years, but the color definitely varied so it's debatable. NPD carries a version of Slop Grey in a can. While you are at it, the shock tower braces, (outer spring) shock tower covers, and the rear bumper support brackets were also painted slop grey. Not the small center grill extension bracket, that was painted semi-gloss black. 

Here are pics of both the lighter "grayer" slop grey and the darker "greenish" slop grey....





4) Bumper supports were Chassis black.

5) There are plenty of pictures from many project posted on the forum... https://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-individual-project-build-threads-and-blogs

Good luck!

Rich

It looks like NPD can't get the "AP-SLPD" dark slop gray paint.  https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/paint_under_hood_dark_slop_gray-204598-0.html   I just called and they said they are having a difficult time getting it from their supplier, they've been trying for 6 months.  Anyone know of another source?

Thanks!

 

[rackerm]

2)  If you repaint your repro grill use a low gloss black, not semi. You will need to paint the inner frame of the headlight bezels as well, as Ford did with the Mach I grills. If you use a spray can try Dupli-color 1634 Low Gloss Black.



3) Not all parts on the grill support and headlight buckets were painted semi-gloss black. To be correct the headlight bucket base and rear brackets and the center grill and latch support were painted "Slop Grey". Slop Grey was a greenish grey to a medium grey color. As the story goes, Ford painted various parts with leftover paint all thrown together making it grey. I personally think the Greenish Grey is more accurate as it matched the original paint on all my 73 Dearborn built cars over the years, but the color definitely varied so it's debatable. NPD carries a version of Slop Grey in a can. While you are at it, the shock tower braces, (outer spring) shock tower covers, and the rear bumper support brackets were also painted slop grey. Not the small center grill extension bracket, that was painted semi-gloss black. 

Here are pics of both the lighter "grayer" slop grey and the darker "greenish" slop grey....





4) Bumper supports were Chassis black.

5) There are plenty of pictures from many project posted on the forum... https://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-individual-project-build-threads-and-blogs

Good luck!

Rich

It looks like NPD can't get the "AP-SLPD" dark slop gray paint.  https://www.npdlink.com/store/products/paint_under_hood_dark_slop_gray-204598-0.html   I just called and they said they are having a difficult time getting it from their supplier, they've been trying for 6 months.  Anyone know of another source?

Thanks!

I have not found any other sources. I bought 5-6 cans from NPD a long time ago and used it up a few years ago. I have been waiting for NPD to get more ever since. I am thinking of having it matched locally.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Rackerm is pretty much right on with the way the parts came. I have a one owner 12,000 mile car that I ordered new so I know was not changed. The yellow car has 48,000 miles and mostly original paint and all original interior.

I get the slop color from MPD and I compared to original parts I have that were on mating surface so did not light fade and looks same. The color would go up and down with what they mixed in. One of the old DuPont paint stores here back in the day of just paint and thinner would save all the miss tints and mix them together and sell to farmers cheap to paint equipment with and it comes out a color of gray.

You could try blasting the grill with walnut shells and start out low pressure I do other plastic parts that way and they look ok. The inner fender plastic parts were cleaned then blasted with walnut then satin clear. The grill in the 73 vert in the pic is NOS Ford one. When they sent the original tooling to China they must have polished the mold cavity and screwed up the mold finish.

I do my own phosphate you have to heat the solution and you need to glass bead the parts before putting them in. You have to have stainless container also. Phosphate parts not mentioned are the parking brake mechanism & gas pedal. The phosphate was used by Ford on parts that they did not want sticking like the hood latch, hood hinges, parking brake and gas pedal. There are also some fasteners that are phosphate. You can order online is expensive or find a local plating shop. Don't have any really good pictures to share but here are some in the process. You can see the finish on the grill that is NOS Ford.





D







bbcode image

 

[OLE PONY]

I bought the Slop Grey from CJ Pony parts many years ago. Not sure if they still sell it.