Should I convert to my NON-AC to NOS AC ?

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I've got a dilemma I am trying to make a decision and would like the groups insight.

My car came from the factory without AC.

My Heater Core is leaking, probably the reason my floor pan rusted out.

Pulled the heater box out and confirmed the heater core was the issue.

The previous owner provided me with a NOS box of parts for AC .

Got the compressor,evaporator, heater core, heater box for AC .

Now the dilemma:

What should I put back in the car ?

the NOS AC Heater box with the unknown parts and hope they work?

Do I need to cut into the Firewall?

Or just swap out the Heater Core and be done? its hot here in the summer (90+)

Would reduce the time I can drive it (without sweating)

Any advice would help .

 

[Don65Stang]

I would put A/C in the car and have bought used factory systems to do so in my cars.

 

[timachone]

Why not?!?

If you need one otherwise you would sweat to death - why not...

If you would use factory parts to let it look like original I see nothing unlegit.

I also have some not factory original parts but original to the 71-73 mustangs - for example the rim blow steering wheel, the long console and the ram air assembly. It was not on the Marti but it looks like it where there from the factory. I can live with that very well

This is my dream mustang with some original added options to save it's original appearance! I think it is allowed to put some extras on it to make it YOUR mustang. If some would go bare original, add some original parts or go the restomod way - that's everybodys decision.

I had that AC-idea in my mind too - but I do not need it really in our regions so I can live without that. One system less that could not fail...

 

[Mister 4x4]

I would check with Classic Auto Air for the RetroFit system - they have as many or as few pieces/parts you would need to get the system up and running.

Since your heater core is toast, I'd replace it with a combination A/C-heater core from Classic Auto Air, and use the rest of your parts you've been provided for a completely stock look, but running newer R134A without having to do much to convert the whole system. Probably would need the control cable eliminators as well, since all of the blend doors are all electrical servos.

Hope that helps!

 

[MotoArts]

I have a complete OE AC set (interior parts only) that I plan on installing as well. I will definitely replace the evap and heater core with new units, and run a new style Sanden compressor/condenser with 134A.

Looks like only the firewall needs to have some holes punched for the hoses. I have Greenlee knockout punches that will do the job like OE.

http://www.grainger.com/category/knockout-hole-punches/electrical-tools/hand-tools/ecatalog/N-lyoZ1z0r4kw

Aside from the obvious comfort factor, I figure it'll add around a grand in resale value to the car.

 

[1973_Mustang_Conv]

I would put A/C in the car and have bought used factory systems to do so in my cars.

Great to know you've done this before .

Know of ay rebuilt kits for the AC /Heater Box?

Mine Looks a little beat up...

Including the rusty metal holding the vent open.

 

[Don65Stang]

I would put A/C in the car and have bought used factory systems to do so in my cars.

Great to know you've done this before .

Know of ay rebuilt kits for the AC /Heater Box?

Mine Looks a little beat up...

Including the rusty metal holding the vent open.

I haven't done it yet but plan to when I get to that stage of the resto. My new 73 vert has factory air and that's the one i'm focusing on now.

Contact OMS to see what items are available to freshen up an original A/C underdash box. They crack easily so be careful. Fiberglass and resin are the method to repair a cracked box.

R134a conversion is possible as is using a Sanden compressor.

 

[Mister 4x4]

You should be able to use R134A with original equipment, providing the system is completely evacuated and everything is flushed. Use a new (not touched by R-12) expansion valve & dryer, and things should be just fine. As long as there isn't anything of the old R-12 left in there, the R134A won't create a "black death" condition.

Adapting a Sanden compressor to a York compressor bracket is a PITA, but again, Classic Auto Air make adapters for that, too.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

If you want air do it. If you are one that is trying to be the perfect to factory spec. I wish you luck.

David

 

[Mister 4x4]

Well fortunately, A/C or No A/C isn't one of those "buck tag or door sticker issues," meaning only the Marti Report or a factory build sheet would tell the tale.

My understanding is that in concourse competition, MCA will allow factory authorized accessories whether they were originally installed or not. So effectively, you could take a low-optioned car and load it up with every bell and whistle, as long as you don't touch the VIN/Door sticker-related items (engine, trans, color, rear axle, "make a non-Mach 1 into a Mach 1," "make a Mach 1 into a Boss 351," etc.).

So if you are trying to keep it as original as possible, according to MCA standards adding factory A/C is all good. Which means forget everything I mentioned about Classic Auto Air.

 

[OMS]

I've got a dilemma I am trying to make a decision and would like the groups insight.

My car came from the factory without AC.

My Heater Core is leaking, probably the reason my floor pan rusted out.

Pulled the heater box out and confirmed the heater core was the issue.

The previous owner provided me with a NOS box of parts for AC .

Got the compressor,evaporator, heater core, heater box for AC .

Now the dilemma:

What should I put back in the car ?

the NOS AC Heater box with the unknown parts and hope they work?

Do I need to cut into the Firewall?

Or just swap out the Heater Core and be done? its hot here in the summer (90+)

Would reduce the time I can drive it (without sweating)

Any advice would help .

You say the box he gave you is NOS [ NOS means NEW OLD STOCK ]

If it is NOS then you should have good / new parts

In addition to the comp, evap, htr core and A/C box

You would need to cut the firewall hole

You will need

Dash duct and all ducting for an a/c car

A/C heater control

Blower motor section for A/C

Center vent

Single cable for the control

Heater hoses for a/c car and the vacuum controlled heater hose shut off

two welded on brackets to mount the A/C box and blower motor under the cowl

3 groove crank pulley

Idler / adjustment pulley

Compressor mounting bracket

Power steering to compressor bracket

Cut hole in the floor for the drain tube

If you want to hide the fact it was a non A/C car you will need to cut out and patch over the heater motor housing in the fender well

I have any and or all the parts you may need

Don

Well fortunately, A/C or No A/C isn't one of those "buck plate or door tag issues," meaning only the Marti Report or a factory build sheet would tell the tale.

My understanding is that in concourse competition, MCA will allow factory authorized accessories whether they were originally installed or not. So effectively, you could take a low-optioned car and load it up with every bell and whistle, as long as you don't touch the VIN/Door sticker-related items (engine, trans, color, rear axle, etc.).

So if you are trying to keep it as original as possible, according to MCA standards adding factory A/C is all good. Which means forget everything I mentioned about Classic Auto Air.

Eric, it would be on the buck tag as the cowl and firewall are different.

Plus the hole in the floor for the drain gets punched

 

[Pastorpat]

I am doing this addition right now. So you have any pictures of the weld on brackets for the blower box?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[piper62j]

The yellow car shows the factory cut-out for the AC and heater hose outlets..

I've added what I do when converting from non- AC To AC. The left over old heater hose holes can be plugged nicely with 1 1/4" hole plugs available on EBay..

I prefer the firewall modification this way to avoid removing too much sheet metal.

Costs vary depending on whether a new under hood kit is installed vs used and the AC/heater box can be obtained new also.. You'll need the AC ducting and vent plenums, AC control panel, the blower motor housing and good evaporator assembly.. The engine pulleys will need to be changed along with belts and either modifying the P/S cooler or replacing it with the AC type.. They are different.. Good used parts are becoming scarce, so plan on spending some serious money on this project..

 

[MikeGriese]

The firewall is the biggest issue. There are holes that need to be opened up, and others that would need to be filled, as well as adding the brackets for the blower motor. If you are anal about it, the dome for the heater only blower motor would need to be removed and patched. I didn't realize that while my car was at the body shop the first time. Took it back in before the holidays to get that fixed. The car is ready to come back home - now I just need a break in the weather to trailer it back.

 

[piper62j]

IMHO,, the blower motor dome can be left alone.. It protrudes into the right wheel well and is covered from view by the splash shield.. It will not obscure anything inside, I leave it alone.. Less work,, less money spent.