Upper control arm shaft replacement

[Pastel Blue]

Not sure where you are going with this? Apples and oranges here, original vs aftermarket and yes, to each his own. If someone is doing a concourse restoration like I am, then they will look to reuse original parts where possible, hence, rebuilding my original control arms. For daily drivers, Some of the aftermarket stuff is good, do your research and make the best decision for your situation.

I guess I must have missed that you are doing a concourse restoration. In that case I would agree, repair and use as much as possible even if it just for your satisfaction knowing it is still all original.

In my case, although my car is still mostly original in so much as it is a numbers car, I needed upgrade much of it for safety and drivability. Beside I don't have the cash to go that route. UConcourse gets expensive. Good luck with it, I'm sure it will be awesome when done.

Geoff.

Living in Ontario, you know the costs to work on these cars. I would be somewhat embarrassed to advertise the money I am investing in my restoration... Getting killed on the dollar exchange to boot. This restoration is the culmination of a 35+ year passion and my goal to finish this car to be as close to factory as possible. Just something I feel I have to do... Good luck with your car, sounds like you have a really good base to work with. Cheers

 

[Stanglover]

Since I may be going the complete replacement route I would have a pair of Moog ball joints available for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K8142

Also, another question, does anyone knows what is the deal with these UCAs that have a dual tone paint on them?

I too have a set of Moog upper ball joints that were near new when I put in the new UCA's. I'll keep mine just in case!!

As for the paint being only on part of the UCA and lowers as well, my best guess based on my former experience, the parts were 'dip' painted, not sprayed. The parts would be hung on a line traveling through a vat of paint. I don't think "E" coating was around in the very early 70's, but I could be wrong. The plant I worked at were we built the vast majority of Chrysler air cleaners, didn't install an E-coat (electro-coat) line until about 1983 when we started building the 'K' car air cleaner by the thousands.

I would stand corrected if someone else knows for sure why only the back 2/3rds were painted.

Geoff.

Not sure where you are going with this? Apples and oranges here, original vs aftermarket and yes, to each his own. If someone is doing a concourse restoration like I am, then they will look to reuse original parts where possible, hence, rebuilding my original control arms. For daily drivers, Some of the aftermarket stuff is good, do your research and make the best decision for your situation.

I guess I must have missed that you are doing a concourse restoration. In that case I would agree, repair and use as much as possible even if it just for your satisfaction knowing it is still all original.

In my case, although my car is still mostly original in so much as it is a numbers car, I needed upgrade much of it for safety and drivability. Beside I don't have the cash to go that route. UConcourse gets expensive. Good luck with it, I'm sure it will be awesome when done.

Geoff.

Living in Ontario, you know the costs to work on these cars. I would be somewhat embarrassed to advertise the money I am investing in my restoration... Getting killed on the dollar exchange to boot. This restoration is the culmination of a 35+ year passion and my goal to finish this car to be as close to factory as possible. Just something I feel I have to do... Good luck with your car, sounds like you have a really good base to work with. Cheers

Living in Ontario, I sure do know the high cost of working on these cars and yes, the exchange rate is killing us. I have put on hold getting my Hurst Comp Plus shifter rebuilt at Hurst as I would be looking at about 500 bucks when all said and done. This is a case where the aftermarket so-called Comp Plus is no where near the same animal and NOT for my car.

I wish I'd known back in 1980 what little bit I know now. I bought a very clean, rust free 1972 Q code 351CJ. I sold it in 1991 when we bought a new house and I knew the car was going to sit for several more years. I still regret selling that car and yes I definitely would have done a concours resto, it would have been worth it. I say this because I get where you are coming from now you've explained your plans and journey. You'll have to post pictures later. I think we all would love to see them.

Geoff.

PS are you a member of the GHMA? I was, not now.

 

[Pastel Blue]

Since I may be going the complete replacement route I would have a pair of Moog ball joints available for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K8142

Also, another question, does anyone knows what is the deal with these UCAs that have a dual tone paint on them?

I too have a set of Moog upper ball joints that were near new when I put in the new UCA's. I'll keep mine just in case!!

As for the paint being only on part of the UCA and lowers as well, my best guess based on my former experience, the parts were 'dip' painted, not sprayed. The parts would be hung on a line traveling through a vat of paint. I don't think "E" coating was around in the very early 70's, but I could be wrong. The plant I worked at were we built the vast majority of Chrysler air cleaners, didn't install an E-coat (electro-coat) line until about 1983 when we started building the 'K' car air cleaner by the thousands.

I would stand corrected if someone else knows for sure why only the back 2/3rds were painted.

Geoff.

I guess I must have missed that you are doing a concourse restoration. In that case I would agree, repair and use as much as possible even if it just for your satisfaction knowing it is still all original.

In my case, although my car is still mostly original in so much as it is a numbers car, I needed upgrade much of it for safety and drivability. Beside I don't have the cash to go that route. UConcourse gets expensive. Good luck with it, I'm sure it will be awesome when done.

Geoff.

Living in Ontario, you know the costs to work on these cars. I would be somewhat embarrassed to advertise the money I am investing in my restoration... Getting killed on the dollar exchange to boot. This restoration is the culmination of a 35+ year passion and my goal to finish this car to be as close to factory as possible. Just something I feel I have to do... Good luck with your car, sounds like you have a really good base to work with. Cheers

Living in Ontario, I sure do know the high cost of working on these cars and yes, the exchange rate is killing us. I have put on hold getting my Hurst Comp Plus shifter rebuilt at Hurst as I would be looking at about 500 bucks when all said and done. This is a case where the aftermarket so-called Comp Plus is no where near the same animal and NOT for my car.

I wish I'd known back in 1980 what little bit I know now. I bought a very clean, rust free 1972 Q code 351CJ. I sold it in 1991 when we bought a new house and I knew the car was going to sit for several more years. I still regret selling that car and yes I definitely would have done a concours resto, it would have been worth it. I say this because I get where you are coming from now you've explained your plans and journey. You'll have to post pictures later. I think we all would love to see them.

Geoff.

PS are you a member of the GHMA? I was, not now.

 

[Stanglover]

Just to save space, I started a separate post. The car is going to be awesome when done and I see why you are known as "Pastel Blue"

We're getting a bit, well a lot, of track. I left GHMA for similar reasons, but in 08 when I joined, I needed some help, which I got. Now I found 7173"s forum, I love it here, lots of great help, suggestions and support. Getting corrected on some issues is also well received. Making mistakes is how we learn.

PM me if you wish,

Geoff.

 

[Pastel Blue]

Since I may be going the complete replacement route I would have a pair of Moog ball joints available for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K8142

Also, another question, does anyone knows what is the deal with these UCAs that have a dual tone paint on them?

Possibly opening up a can of worms here..., I don't believe that the upper control arms were dual painted, they were bare steel look on the '71's. The lower control arms were (may have been) dipped about 2/3 to 3/4 of the length in some form of black paint but staying away from the ball joint end of the arm. You will get many opinions on issues such as this, but my research and in reviewing my original control arms, this is what I could determine for my car.

 

[tony-muscle]

I was talking about the aftermarket UCAs. Scott Drake has a version with a without the dual tone.

 

[Stanglover]

Since I may be going the complete replacement route I would have a pair of Moog ball joints available for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-K8142

Also, another question, does anyone knows what is the deal with these UCAs that have a dual tone paint on them?

Possibly opening up a can of worms here..., I don't believe that the upper control arms were dual painted, they were bare steel look on the '71's. The lower control arms were (may have been) dipped about 2/3 to 3/4 of the length in some form of black paint but staying away from the ball joint end of the arm. You will get many opinions on issues such as this, but my research and in reviewing my original control arms, this is what I could determine for my car.

Thinking of it, I believe you are right that the 71's UCA's were NOT painted at all. I didn't pay too much attention when I removed my old worn out control arms as they were getting chucked, but I did spend a bit of time cleaning the one that was not split and I don't remember seeing any sign of paint on either top or bottom CA's. I likely just thought that it had all worn off. Can't say anything about later years as I've not looked at any with that in mind. Could it just be that some of the aftermarket ones are partly painted because they look cool?? Just saying.

I was talking about the aftermarket UCAs. Scott Drake has a version with a without the dual tone.

They have both, BUT the partly painted ones COST more!! Or at least they were at the Canadian company I bought them from. I got the fully painted and saved a few bucks.

 

[Pastel Blue]

There is strong evidence confirming that lower control arms were partially painted at the factory, hence aftermarket pieces showing the same paint scheme.

 

[Stanglover]

There is strong evidence confirming that lower control arms were partially painted at the factory, hence aftermarket pieces showing the same paint scheme.

Mine may have been, but as they were covered in grunge from leaking ball joint rubbers and years of use, I just pitched them. Now I wish I'd at least taken notice for future reference.

Hope you find all the good stuff you need,

Geoff.