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WTB - 600 to 650 CFM carburetor

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Sly_drums

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
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Location
Grenoble, France
My Car
72 Mustang Grande / 351 Clev. 2V + Weiand XCelerator intake + Holley 600 CFM carb
Holley, Edelbrock, Motorcraft... Make me an offer !

 
Hey Steve, thanks for the input, Summit carbs look good :)

I have an issue, let me explain :

My Cleveland currently runs with 2V intake manifold/carb instead of the original 4V (Q code).

I just bought a FORD 4V intake manifold to install a new four barrel carburetor, just received it this morning, here it is :

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/798_13_08_11_2_22_07.jpeg

From what I could gather from the internet my engine will run fine using a 600 CFM carb. When I go to the Holley/Edelbrock websites and try to choose my future carb there are so many references... Looking at the pics I can't figure out if one particular carburetor will fit the FORD intake manifold (even with an adaptator). The problem is the width of primaries and secondaries in the carbs ; I think they won't fit my intake manifold. What do you think ? Do I have to dig a big square hole in my 4V intake manifold so any carb can match ?

 
Call Summit Racing. They're pretty good figuring out applications. I've heard that with Holley's and Edelbrocks you need an adapter because the intakes are square bore and the carbs are spread bore. I'm not sure about the Summit carbs though. Just tell them what engine and intake you have, and they'll point you in the right direction.

 
Look at transdapt part number 2044. TDperformance.com It may be what you are looking for. Whatever carb you buy must have Ford kick down linkage if you have an automatic transmission and you want the kick down function to work. The kick down rod may need to be modified to work with the new carburetor. If you use the kick down rod it must be properly adjusted or you can seriously damage the automatic transmission. You effort would be a lot less if you could find a 4V intake from a 70-71 M code 351C, no adapter required. An after market aluminum intake is also an option. Good Luck, Chuck

 
Thanks Chuck for your reply, I'm going to check this out, didn't think about this...

I just found the answer to my question ! What I need a 650 CFM spread bore carb from Holley. It has tinier primaries and it should match my intake manifold.

Holley 650 spread bore : http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w263/firebuick/0333_1.jpg

My intake manifold :

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/798_13_08_11_2_22_07.jpeg

Maybe I will need an adaptator though, it seems that it's impossible to compare the Holley width and length with those of my intake manifold. The Edelbrock one looks good to me : http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2696

Any ideas ?

 
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I would email or call Trans Dapt or edelbrock or holley before purchasing anything. What makes this tough is the stud spacing on your intake is the same as a Holley or Edelbrock but the bore spacing of the intake is neither holley square bore nor Rochester quadrajet spread bore. It is unique to Autolite/Motorcraft spread bore carburetors. The spacing of the primary bores is very different between the two carbs and most people refer to both as being a "spread bore". Chuck

 
Thanks for the inputs guys, I'm going to contact Holley and Edelbrock.

In France most people dunno anything about american cars technicals, so you can do whatever you want, I don't think I'll get any problems with this except when it comes to the engine "noise" (let's say "sound" :D)

 
Ok good. My Swiss friends tell me that they are very limited on what they can do to a car.

First, confirm which heads are on the motor. While it is possible to swap a 2bll manifold onto the 4v heads I would have expected that someone looking to put a 2bll would have just bought a cheap adapter rather than swap out the intake. Getting a good seal is always a problem too.

Are you pretty familiar with the differences between the 2v and 4v Cleveland motors?

 
Hey Will thanks for this, just discovered it's not the motor I thought it was :D

It's a Cleveland for sure, but 2V. I did not find that much info on this one...

 
No problem, I gave some more information in you 'garage' thread about the 2v and 4v cleveland. The 2v motors are great motors too. If you want to go with a 4bbl get yourself a good dual plane aftermarket aluminum intake like the Edelbrock. The good news is they accept the more popular carb choices.

 
Will thanks a lot, that's some very useful info, I will sell the 4V intake and get an Edelbrock after market one, do you have an idea of where I can find one ?? (link ?)

 
Sly,

I strongly suggest you take a "time out" and determine exactly what you have before you invest in additional parts.

As inferred by Will, there are major differences between 2V and 4V headed Clevelands. That is not to say that the 2V are "bad", they just require a different approach than the 4V when changing things like intakes and carbs, for example.

If you have the 2V heads, I would suggest that your best approach is to go with an intake manifold that was designed for the 2V heads. There are plenty of them out there. Edelbrock makes a nice 'Air Gap" manifold or so I have been told...I know there are others. You could then get the carb to match whatever performance level you intend to build into the engine.

As a Modifier, I have nothing against "cobbling" things together but I try not to "reinvent" the wheel:).

Hope this helps!

BT

 
There are different manifolds available. What is your intended purpose for the car? Are you looking for something to drive on a daily basis or just to take out for fun every once in a while. Will you be making other changes to the engine? Like a higher peformance cam? Are you going to invest a bunch of money in it all at once or are you going to add pieces as you can find/afford them? There are lots of things to consider. I suggest posting up a new thread with what you have and what you would like to do with the car and ask for some suggestions. (Not a lot of people are going to look at a WTB thread) Then you can do as cobra3073 suggested and plan out the build and then start to collect the parts.

 
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