Starting A New 72 Mach 1 Project

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Jun 20, 2024
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Hello All,

About 2 weeks ago I purchased a little bit of a rust bucket 72 Mach 1 that I have begun working on. I'm not sure if I'd consider it a resto-mod or what but just planning on doing what I want for my ideal Mustang first and foremost. I've always wanted to have a late 60's - early 70's muscle car and a great opportunity to purchase this 72 came along and I couldn't pass it up. I was never in love with the 71-73 Mustang but it is growing on me every day. My father had a 71 Mach 1 and I'd be fibbing if I said that didn't sway me to making the purchase. But overall, this site has been an invaluable resource already.

Here is a picture of his Mach 1 (with his ex), or is it a picture of his ex (with his Mach1)? :ROFLMAO:. I'm leaning towards the latter! And before you ask, his father owned a body shop and they got it as a salvage and repainted the whole thing which is why the paint does not look original. Looks to be missing the rear spoiler too. I'll have to ask him more about that.

IMG_3635.jpg


Anyways, here is mine. It came without the original engine. The guy I purchased it from only bought it to take out the engine. That is actually fine because I have plans of putting in a coyote anyways. I already have the engine bay fully gutted and have the shock tower notch kit and coyote engine mount kit from Gateway Classic Mustangs ordered. The only substantial rust found in the engine bay was to the battery apron, radiator support (where it met the battery apron), and the passenger side shock tower. All have been replaced with the exception of the shock tower which is on the way. I knew there was some floor pan rust issues but upon further inspection, it was far worse than what I had imagined. But that's okay, I'll be replacing the entire floor pan now for piece of mind. The trunk area is a total nightmare or rust. Also, okay because I have a replacement already. Luckily, or not so luckily, the rear end panels are rusted out so getting in the trunk pan should be easier than dismantling the rear end to get it in. It will be a slow going project as I am still learning everyday....and obviously the cost. But I will be sure to keep this updated and lean on you all as a great vat of knowledge! Feel free to hit me with any questions, ideas, or valuable info.
mach1.jpg
rear.jpg
helper.jpg
As for the major updates, I am working the car front to back but focusing on creating a solid structure as the primary first steps. Please note, below steps are just a semi-structured plan and nothing is set in stone and likely to change as I'm going.
1. Making a solid base to handle a higher HP coyote swap.
1a. Coyote engine mounts
1b. Making room for a coyote with the shock tower notch kit.
2. Painting the engine bay. - Likely rattle can but doing it methodically to get rid of any existing rust and have it hold up for years. It won't be a show car but still want it to look good.
3. Gutting interior. (Done).
4. Complete floor pan replacement.
4a. Once floor pans are out, sandblasting frame.
5. Painting/ Under coating frame.
6. Adding sub frame connector kit with removable x-brace.
7. Rear end suspension replacement - haven't decided on anything specific yet but likely everything brand new.
8. Both rear quarters have rust and I already have half quarters but I don't entirely trust myself to complete that body work...I at least want the outside to look professionally done lol.
9. Updated wiring
10. Exterior paint - I have a 2010 Honda Fury with a Matte Bullet paint that I absolutely love the look of, so I am pretty set on a color scheme.
fury.jpg
11. Engine - More to follow on this but it will be a built/sleeved/boosted coyote.
 

Attachments

  • floor.jpg
    floor.jpg
    1.4 MB
Howdy and welcome from Texas! Looks like a great project and you already have a helper! Keep us posted on your progress. If you look through the build threads you'll find a couple others have done or are doing Coyote swaps.
 
Welcome from Chicago! Looks like you have some work ahead of you, but it sounds like you have a good plan to tackle one thing at a time. I have been through a few of the things you are planning to do recently as I have been restoring my 71 Mach 1. BTW, you are absolutely correct, the trunk floor is much easier to replace with the taillamp panel removed. Have fun and enjoy the journey!
 
Well I made the mistake of throwing out the 72s urethane front bumbler that was is decent enough shape to restore. It’s a shame because I like the look of it much more than the chrome one that I ordered. Big mistake number one was not looking closely before taking a trip to the dump. No going back now and probably not worth the hassle of trying to find one considering I have a perfectly fine and brand new chrome one. But certainly a bummer because I loved the look the old one much, much more. Maybe I’ll be okay with it because the plan was to paint it either way. Live and learn. Adding the urethane front bumper to the wish list.
 
Welcome from Cali, looks like you got a project ahead of you but also looks like you have most of the parts also.
 
Can anyone tell me what’s going on here? New quarters came with the car and I replaced the old rusted out ones. I took the old fender extension pieces and put them on the new fender but they appear to be about 2 inches short. I’m hoping this will be as easy as buying new extensions. IMG_1974.jpeg
 
Thanks for the response Spaceman. Do you think if I ordered 73 extensions everything will work? Or should I just cough up the money and order 72 fenders? I’m not worried about any scrutiny by mixing them up since it’s not going to be a show car. But if I can spend a a few hundred less and still have everything line up it would be preferred. I thought I really screwed up the frame already.
 
Thanks for the response Spaceman. Do you think if I ordered 73 extensions everything will work? Or should I just cough up the money and order 72 fenders? I’m not worried about any scrutiny by mixing them up since it’s not going to be a show car. But if I can spend a a few hundred less and still have everything line up it would be preferred. I thought I really screwed up the frame already.
Unfortunately the bumpers line up differently between the two. Hence the different cutout height between them, a 72 bumper using 72 bumper supports is going to try and tuck right up into the bottom of the 72 extension and cutout location (check your first pic in this thread, you'll see what I mean). It's probably doable if you can adequately modify the bumper supports. I've been looking into the differences a lot because I'd like to swap my 73 to 71/2 style bumper at some point in the future, I don't recall seeing any posts where someone converted to 73 fenders and extensions but kept the original bumper assembly.
 
Howdy and welcome from Texas! Looks like a great project and you already have a helper! Keep us posted on your progress. If you look through the build threads you'll find a couple others have done or are doing Coyote swaps.
What part of Texas are you in? I’m just south of Dallas.
 
Hello All,

About 2 weeks ago I purchased a little bit of a rust bucket 72 Mach 1 that I have begun working on. I'm not sure if I'd consider it a resto-mod or what but just planning on doing what I want for my ideal Mustang first and foremost. I've always wanted to have a late 60's - early 70's muscle car and a great opportunity to purchase this 72 came along and I couldn't pass it up. I was never in love with the 71-73 Mustang but it is growing on me every day. My father had a 71 Mach 1 and I'd be fibbing if I said that didn't sway me to making the purchase. But overall, this site has been an invaluable resource already.

Here is a picture of his Mach 1 (with his ex), or is it a picture of his ex (with his Mach1)? :ROFLMAO:. I'm leaning towards the latter! And before you ask, his father owned a body shop and they got it as a salvage and repainted the whole thing which is why the paint does not look original. Looks to be missing the rear spoiler too. I'll have to ask him more about that.

View attachment 89928


Anyways, here is mine. It came without the original engine. The guy I purchased it from only bought it to take out the engine. That is actually fine because I have plans of putting in a coyote anyways. I already have the engine bay fully gutted and have the shock tower notch kit and coyote engine mount kit from Gateway Classic Mustangs ordered. The only substantial rust found in the engine bay was to the battery apron, radiator support (where it met the battery apron), and the passenger side shock tower. All have been replaced with the exception of the shock tower which is on the way. I knew there was some floor pan rust issues but upon further inspection, it was far worse than what I had imagined. But that's okay, I'll be replacing the entire floor pan now for piece of mind. The trunk area is a total nightmare or rust. Also, okay because I have a replacement already. Luckily, or not so luckily, the rear end panels are rusted out so getting in the trunk pan should be easier than dismantling the rear end to get it in. It will be a slow going project as I am still learning everyday....and obviously the cost. But I will be sure to keep this updated and lean on you all as a great vat of knowledge! Feel free to hit me with any questions, ideas, or valuable info.
View attachment 89931
View attachment 89932
View attachment 89930
As for the major updates, I am working the car front to back but focusing on creating a solid structure as the primary first steps. Please note, below steps are just a semi-structured plan and nothing is set in stone and likely to change as I'm going.
1. Making a solid base to handle a higher HP coyote swap.
1a. Coyote engine mounts
1b. Making room for a coyote with the shock tower notch kit.
2. Painting the engine bay. - Likely rattle can but doing it methodically to get rid of any existing rust and have it hold up for years. It won't be a show car but still want it to look good.
3. Gutting interior. (Done).
4. Complete floor pan replacement.
4a. Once floor pans are out, sandblasting frame.
5. Painting/ Under coating frame.
6. Adding sub frame connector kit with removable x-brace.
7. Rear end suspension replacement - haven't decided on anything specific yet but likely everything brand new.
8. Both rear quarters have rust and I already have half quarters but I don't entirely trust myself to complete that body work...I at least want the outside to look professionally done lol.
9. Updated wiring
10. Exterior paint - I have a 2010 Honda Fury with a Matte Bullet paint that I absolutely love the look of, so I am pretty set on a color scheme.
View attachment 89933
11. Engine - More to follow on this but it will be a built/sleeved/boosted coyote.
Update July 8, 2024

Subframe connectors mocked up and awaiting new complete floor pan delivery tomorrow to tack everything in and give one final check before removing bracing and finalizing welds.
Still lots more to do but trying to to get the frame and body all stiffened and rust free. IMG_2020.jpeg
 
Hello All,

About 2 weeks ago I purchased a little bit of a rust bucket 72 Mach 1 that I have begun working on. I'm not sure if I'd consider it a resto-mod or what but just planning on doing what I want for my ideal Mustang first and foremost. I've always wanted to have a late 60's - early 70's muscle car and a great opportunity to purchase this 72 came along and I couldn't pass it up. I was never in love with the 71-73 Mustang but it is growing on me every day. My father had a 71 Mach 1 and I'd be fibbing if I said that didn't sway me to making the purchase. But overall, this site has been an invaluable resource already.

Here is a picture of his Mach 1 (with his ex), or is it a picture of his ex (with his Mach1)? :ROFLMAO:. I'm leaning towards the latter! And before you ask, his father owned a body shop and they got it as a salvage and repainted the whole thing which is why the paint does not look original. Looks to be missing the rear spoiler too. I'll have to ask him more about that.

View attachment 89928


Anyways, here is mine. It came without the original engine. The guy I purchased it from only bought it to take out the engine. That is actually fine because I have plans of putting in a coyote anyways. I already have the engine bay fully gutted and have the shock tower notch kit and coyote engine mount kit from Gateway Classic Mustangs ordered. The only substantial rust found in the engine bay was to the battery apron, radiator support (where it met the battery apron), and the passenger side shock tower. All have been replaced with the exception of the shock tower which is on the way. I knew there was some floor pan rust issues but upon further inspection, it was far worse than what I had imagined. But that's okay, I'll be replacing the entire floor pan now for piece of mind. The trunk area is a total nightmare or rust. Also, okay because I have a replacement already. Luckily, or not so luckily, the rear end panels are rusted out so getting in the trunk pan should be easier than dismantling the rear end to get it in. It will be a slow going project as I am still learning everyday....and obviously the cost. But I will be sure to keep this updated and lean on you all as a great vat of knowledge! Feel free to hit me with any questions, ideas, or valuable info.
View attachment 89931
View attachment 89932
View attachment 89930
As for the major updates, I am working the car front to back but focusing on creating a solid structure as the primary first steps. Please note, below steps are just a semi-structured plan and nothing is set in stone and likely to change as I'm going.
1. Making a solid base to handle a higher HP coyote swap.
1a. Coyote engine mounts
1b. Making room for a coyote with the shock tower notch kit.
2. Painting the engine bay. - Likely rattle can but doing it methodically to get rid of any existing rust and have it hold up for years. It won't be a show car but still want it to look good.
3. Gutting interior. (Done).
4. Complete floor pan replacement.
4a. Once floor pans are out, sandblasting frame.
5. Painting/ Under coating frame.
6. Adding sub frame connector kit with removable x-brace.
7. Rear end suspension replacement - haven't decided on anything specific yet but likely everything brand new.
8. Both rear quarters have rust and I already have half quarters but I don't entirely trust myself to complete that body work...I at least want the outside to look professionally done lol.
9. Updated wiring
10. Exterior paint - I have a 2010 Honda Fury with a Matte Bullet paint that I absolutely love the look of, so I am pretty set on a color scheme.
View attachment 89933
11. Engine - More to follow on this but it will be a built/sleeved/boosted coyote.
Update 7/13/2024

Turns out you can get a complete floor pan in at once without any significant/structural cutting. Still need completely welded in but a big step today. IMG_2022.jpeg
 
When replacing that rear quarter sheet metal be aware also that the 71-72 sheet-metal around the bumper area is also different to a 73.

One day at a work car show somebody looked at my 72 and said "Is that large gap around the end of the bumper from factory?"
I'd had the car about 10 years and hadn't actually noticed, but the gap at the bumper on the drivers side was substantially bigger than the one on the passenger side. I had always known that my car had been repaired on the drivers quarter, but it was only at that point that I realized that the donor metal had come from a 73.
 
When replacing that rear quarter sheet metal be aware also that the 71-72 sheet-metal around the bumper area is also different to a 73.

One day at a work car show somebody looked at my 72 and said "Is that large gap around the end of the bumper from factory?"
I'd had the car about 10 years and hadn't actually noticed, but the gap at the bumper on the drivers side was substantially bigger than the one on the passenger side. I had always known that my car had been repaired on the drivers quarter, but it was only at that point that I realized that the donor metal had come from a 73.
Thanks Flatback! That is some good info to have. After my recent issue with the front fenders, I’m glad to know there is a similarity for the rear as well. After looking into the reasoning for the front being safety upgrades to bumpers I am not surprised to find the rear has the same. I appreciate you letting me know because by the time I get to the rear I will probably forget all about the front.
 
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