I finally took the dive and replaced my broken and incorrect motor mounts with original (used) 73 Mustang Convertible mounts. I've avoided this because I am old and last time I swapped motor mounts was on my 83 Jeep Cherokee and THAT was a major pain. So if this is a job you've been putting off, here's a writeup on how it went.
1973 Convertible. 351C Hooker Comp headers and Auto Transmission
60 year old doing the work on his garage floor
It took about 4 hours but I wasn't in a hurry and I was trying to just 'enjoy' the experience as much as a job like this can be.
1. The fan shroud is already out of the car so I didn't have to remove it.
2. Jacked up the front of the car to a point where the front tires were still on the ground and could not be moved by hand but a bit further and I think they would have lifted off. Obviously supported using jack stands with wheel chocks on the rear tires.
3. Loosened the 4 bolts to the engine block (5/8" socket). I was able to use some extenders and not much trouble working around the headers.
4. Loosened the mount to saddle bolts 9/16 sockets.
5. Loosened the 2 nuts for the transmission mount. (This isn't listed in the manual but it's easy to do. 11/16" socket)
6. I tried to lift the engine using a Harbor Freight Transmission jack on the oil pan. This is the non-hydraulic 'screw' driven version. I like to use this one because it is more 'precise' in its movement and won't 'leak down'. But it felt like I was trying to turn it too hard so opted for the tried and true floor jack and 2x4 under the oil pan.
7. Once the engine went up a bit I removed the 4 bolts to the block. Then I lifted the engine a bit more. It's now supported only on the jack (and transmission mount)
8. Removed the saddle bolts.
9. Tried removing passenger mount and continued lifting the engine until it cleared. I found it was easier to pull and install the passenger side from the front. The starter is in the way in the rear and it makes it a bit tight. There was still plenty of more 'lift' room for headers and even the breather on the valve covers. I am not sure how much more I could lift before running out of room.
10. Removed driver side (no additional lifting required). For the driver side I removed from the rear. The oil filter is in the way up front. I had to turn the mount a bit here and there to get it around the header but it wasn't a fight.
11. Got the new mounts in place, took a little bit of finagling. They are the same part on both sides and they only fit one way so it's pretty obvious when you go to install them.
12. Installed the motor bolts first, snugged them down. I didn't want to leave the mounts 'loose' on the bolts in case there was some kind of problem and the mount twisted and worse case broke the block hole.
13. Slowly lowered the engine. The motor mounts slid right into the saddles. Nice. Moved the jack out of the way.
14. The saddle bolt holes did not line up, they were a bit 'too high'
15. Loosened the 4 motor bolts exposing about 1/2" of thread.
16. That allowed the mounts to move enough to expose the saddle hole. Slid in the bolts and started the nuts.
17. Torqued the motor bolts down good and snug (I did not use a torque wrench)
18. Torqued the saddle bolt/nuts down. '
19. Torqued the transmission bolts down
20. Lowered the car.
It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I was really expecting something to not fit or I'd have to pull the exhaust or something. I'd done this job before on the Mustang but always as part of an engine install, I don't know that I have ever just swapped them before.
And worth the effort. My driver side 'non-capture' incorrect year (and perhaps body style) mount was broken. As in 'came out in two pieces'. I knew something was up because when I would get 'on it' the shifter handle would move, it was being torqued towards the passenger side. Between that and the bad tires I'd drive it like, well, like a 60 year old. haha. But its all good now!
I hope this helps someone.
1973 Convertible. 351C Hooker Comp headers and Auto Transmission
60 year old doing the work on his garage floor
It took about 4 hours but I wasn't in a hurry and I was trying to just 'enjoy' the experience as much as a job like this can be.
1. The fan shroud is already out of the car so I didn't have to remove it.
2. Jacked up the front of the car to a point where the front tires were still on the ground and could not be moved by hand but a bit further and I think they would have lifted off. Obviously supported using jack stands with wheel chocks on the rear tires.
3. Loosened the 4 bolts to the engine block (5/8" socket). I was able to use some extenders and not much trouble working around the headers.
4. Loosened the mount to saddle bolts 9/16 sockets.
5. Loosened the 2 nuts for the transmission mount. (This isn't listed in the manual but it's easy to do. 11/16" socket)
6. I tried to lift the engine using a Harbor Freight Transmission jack on the oil pan. This is the non-hydraulic 'screw' driven version. I like to use this one because it is more 'precise' in its movement and won't 'leak down'. But it felt like I was trying to turn it too hard so opted for the tried and true floor jack and 2x4 under the oil pan.
7. Once the engine went up a bit I removed the 4 bolts to the block. Then I lifted the engine a bit more. It's now supported only on the jack (and transmission mount)
8. Removed the saddle bolts.
9. Tried removing passenger mount and continued lifting the engine until it cleared. I found it was easier to pull and install the passenger side from the front. The starter is in the way in the rear and it makes it a bit tight. There was still plenty of more 'lift' room for headers and even the breather on the valve covers. I am not sure how much more I could lift before running out of room.
10. Removed driver side (no additional lifting required). For the driver side I removed from the rear. The oil filter is in the way up front. I had to turn the mount a bit here and there to get it around the header but it wasn't a fight.
11. Got the new mounts in place, took a little bit of finagling. They are the same part on both sides and they only fit one way so it's pretty obvious when you go to install them.
12. Installed the motor bolts first, snugged them down. I didn't want to leave the mounts 'loose' on the bolts in case there was some kind of problem and the mount twisted and worse case broke the block hole.
13. Slowly lowered the engine. The motor mounts slid right into the saddles. Nice. Moved the jack out of the way.
14. The saddle bolt holes did not line up, they were a bit 'too high'
15. Loosened the 4 motor bolts exposing about 1/2" of thread.
16. That allowed the mounts to move enough to expose the saddle hole. Slid in the bolts and started the nuts.
17. Torqued the motor bolts down good and snug (I did not use a torque wrench)
18. Torqued the saddle bolt/nuts down. '
19. Torqued the transmission bolts down
20. Lowered the car.
It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I was really expecting something to not fit or I'd have to pull the exhaust or something. I'd done this job before on the Mustang but always as part of an engine install, I don't know that I have ever just swapped them before.
And worth the effort. My driver side 'non-capture' incorrect year (and perhaps body style) mount was broken. As in 'came out in two pieces'. I knew something was up because when I would get 'on it' the shifter handle would move, it was being torqued towards the passenger side. Between that and the bad tires I'd drive it like, well, like a 60 year old. haha. But its all good now!
I hope this helps someone.
