Motor mounts and oil pan removal/replacement on 73 with 351C. Can I leave the motor in?

[will e]

I have to replace the motor mounts and I have a canton high capacity oil pan to swap in too.

Can I do either or both of these without removing the engine? Can I just lift it with a hoist and get enough clearance?

I did a search but motor mounts are a big topic on the forum so I wasn't able to find any details on installation.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

I have to replace the motor mounts and I have a canton high capacity oil pan to swap in too.

Can I do either or both of these without removing the engine? Can I just lift it with a hoist and get enough clearance?

I did a search but motor mounts are a big topic on the forum so I wasn't able to find any details on installation.

Yes, you can change mounts as you stated.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Yes, you can change mounts as you stated.

And oil pan too.

 

[Hemikiller]

The typical process is:

Remove two fan shroud bolts, unclip from bottom of radiator, lay back on the engine
Remove motor mount through bolts
Lift engine, place 2x4 blocks between mount and frame bracket
Raise and support the car
Remove sway bar
Drain oil
Remove oil pan bolts, drop pan down
Remove oil pump bolts, drop pump and shaft into pan
Slide pan forward and out

I prefer use gasket shellac to glue the gasket to the block. Tiny dab of RTV in the corners where the rubber meets the cork and you're good to go. As with any aftermarket pan, I suggest you check it for fit before putting the gasket in place. Double check the clearance from pickup to pan as well.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Put a board under the front of the pan and change the motor mounts.

Put a board in-between the mounts to have enough room for the pan to clear the crank and caps.

As someone mentioned loosen the fan shroud and when the fan comes up the shroud will go with it.

 

[will e]

Thanks guys. I will put a plan together to get this done. I have replacement mounts that I got on this forum (73 convertible, a unobtanium part). I will keep the old ones and I think there is a place that will rebuild them and so I will get that done, while it's still available, and toss them on the shelf.
I am also going to add a strap/chain to keep the engine from torquing the mounts and breaking them again. I need to do a bit more research on the best way to do this. Finally, I will use stage 8 bolts for the oil pan. I've used them for headers and valve covers on this and another rig I own and they work great.

Any other thoughts while I am digging into this effort? I am really happy I don't have to yank the engine out... again. I am getting too old for this!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

"Any other thoughts while I am digging into this effort?....."
Consider a new oil pump and pump drive shaft (Milodon, ARP etc.) and get the correct pick-up for your Canton oil pan.

 

[machattack]

The typical process is:

Remove two fan shroud bolts, unclip from bottom of radiator, lay back on the engine
Remove motor mount through bolts
Lift engine, place 2x4 blocks between mount and frame bracket
Raise and support the car
Remove sway bar
Drain oil
Remove oil pan bolts, drop pan down
Remove oil pump bolts, drop pump and shaft into pan
Slide pan forward and out

I prefer use gasket shellac to glue the gasket to the block. Tiny dab of RTV in the corners where the rubber meets the cork and you're good to go. As with any aftermarket pan, I suggest you check it for fit before putting the gasket in place. Double check the clearance from pickup to pan as well.

Ive attempted this twice following Hemi killers directions. Its not his directions Im certain! as he always has the correct answers. Im thinking its the replacement pan. Its gold in color if that helps any? Would it make sense to have a aluminum pan so it had more rigidity ?
I cant stand oil leaks :-( drives me crazy.

 

[tony-muscle]

As stated above, the oil pan can be replaced with the engine in place. I am in that same process as we speak. It requires a lot of patience to get the oil pump and shaft on since you have to do it with the pan half down. Speaking from my own mistakes don't forget the oil shaft and make sure the oil shaft is through the right hole before tightening the oil pan in place (don't ask me why I am stating something so obvious ). And one more item to check for aftermarket pans, make sure the dipstick makes it all the way down.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Ive attempted this twice following Hemi killers directions. Its not his directions Im certain! as he always has the correct answers. Im thinking its the replacement pan. Its gold in color if that helps any? Would it make sense to have a aluminum pan so it had more rigidity ?
I cant stand oil leaks :-( drives me crazy.

Gold one is probably a milodon.

Generally they are ok.

Look at the pan rails. If they are dimpled use a hammer to flatten the rail smooth. For best results back the outside of the rail with flat metal, a socket or wood.

Just test fit before reinstalling