71 Coupe

7173Mustangs.com

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Joined
Apr 1, 2024
Messages
17
Reaction score
21
Location
Tennessee
My Car
1971 Mustang Coupe w/ 427 Stroker
It’s been awhile since I posted on here. After purchasing many parts and funding my project. I have plenty of pictures and progress.

Interesting things I learned about the car and engine. This was originally birthed with a 302. The 351W that currently lives in this car once belonged to a Ford Galaxy from what the numbers tell on the block.

Remember, I did buy this car in the beginning of this year. I believe I posted all of it’s details or as much as I knew. I verified everything. Trust, but verify.
The owner said it was bored .40 - True
Stroked to a 427 - False has factory stroke. It is a 357W
Lunati Cam with matching components - True
So far everything is looking to be in place.

So going forward, This engine is getting seals and gaskets replaced, because there was a major oil leak. Probably why the vehicle wasn’t rusted out. There’s oil everywhere on the bottom of the car.

Anyways, it seems like she was running very rich. The carburetor on there before was not tuned as it should be and the car wasn’t responding very well to this oversized carburetor that was on there before. I decided to go EFI with the Holley Sniper 2.

Let’s see, front drum brakes are going. Decided to go with Leed disc brakes conversion kit. Decided to step up to a Quick Performance 9 inch 31 spline rear end with EatonTruTrac and 3.89 gearing. No more one wheel peelies, haha

For major changes that should be it. The EFI, brakes, and rear end. I feel for a motor like this it should have a rear end that can enjoy the power.
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Good afternoon everyone, just an update on everything. Car is back together and running great. Just slowly working and tweaking the tuning for the EFI.

I was not getting any turn signals and brake signals. I want to thank Midlifeharness for his help on that and sending me the male harness I needed for the female harness on the turn signals switch. After a bunch of trouble shooting and replacing a relay. I have turn signals and brake signals. Such a relief.

I also installed the new bucket seats and seatbelts. I will have to get more pictures of that.

Next to install is the QP 9 inch rear end.

Everything is coming together. Such a blast to drive and puts a smile on my face everytime.

I am also looking into doing some exhaust work. The long tube headers I am fine with, but the straight pipe stopping before the rear end is starting to get old. Don’t get me wrong I love the loud muscle car sound, but I just want a nice respectable aggressive muscle car tone without the drone and the sound of a nascar engine at idle. It’s nasty loud. I wouldn’t mind toning that down a bit and I am sure that completing the exhaust to the back and adding some decent mufflers will get me the results I am looking for.
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Wow, you've been busy!!! Great progress!
I see you run a sniper 2, which now finally comes with an external regulator vs the v1 internal one that was a source of lots of problems for me. The second most source of issues was coming from the exhaust. Keep in mind the headers you have have some miles and were fine for a carb, but as I've learned, these were not made for EFI. so observe your AFR levels, if they fluctuate when you are at idle, chances are high your headers are the culprit. I had to re-weld everything, Especially at the flanges/head side and collector as these headers tubes are pressed in without really great care on the fit and partially welded, leading to tiny leaks which does introduce false o2 readings, which in turns will make your mix go rich as the comp gets the signal that its too lean. No matter the tuning, the car would stay rich because of this. So may that not be the case now, which I hope for you, but if you ever notice plugs a bit too dark, idle not at the target rpm or the AFR not smoothly evolving, that's likely because of one of the two.
 
Wow, you've been busy!!! Great progress!
I see you run a sniper 2, which now finally comes with an external regulator vs the v1 internal one that was a source of lots of problems for me. The second most source of issues was coming from the exhaust. Keep in mind the headers you have have some miles and were fine for a carb, but as I've learned, these were not made for EFI. so observe your AFR levels, if they fluctuate when you are at idle, chances are high your headers are the culprit. I had to re-weld everything, Especially at the flanges/head side and collector as these headers tubes are pressed in without really great care on the fit and partially welded, leading to tiny leaks which does introduce false o2 readings, which in turns will make your mix go rich as the comp gets the signal that its too lean. No matter the tuning, the car would stay rich because of this. So may that not be the case now, which I hope for you, but if you ever notice plugs a bit too dark, idle not at the target rpm or the AFR not smoothly evolving, that's likely because of one of the two.
Hey Fabrice! Yes, I wanted to make sure I stayed away from the old models. So far so good. I have the external Holley regulator with a fuel pressure gauge tied in.

I appreciate that heads up with the exhaust. So far my AFR levels are where they need to be. I will be sure to keep an eye on them. They are aftermarket long tube headers, but I do not know the mileage on them. The exhaust is getting an overhaul. I am keeping the headers because they are still in good shape. From the headers the dual 3 inch pipe will start and go out to the rear end and up over the rear axle out the sides since the after market fuel tank is a little too close for comfort to where the original exhaust would be. This loud race car sound with no refined tone is not my cup of tea.

Also, that tail light panel is still on my list of things to do. It’s not a super pressing thing at the moment with all the other parts that are just sitting in my garage taking up space waiting to be installed. :ROFLMAO:
 
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