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A less caustic paint remove is Citri-strip. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot.

As I recall, the splines are different between the tilt and not tilt column.

If you do make substantive changes from stock, take good notes and document everything you changed. One of the first recommendations anybody on a forum makes when somebody has a problem is "go get the manuals/wiring diagrams". That won't help if the car doesn't match the manuals. You might...

I would hazard a guess that the higher idle speed was to alleviate the car bogging down when launching from a stop in first gear.

Google is a wonderful thing... https://www.npdlink.com/product/switch-and-bracket-park-brake-signal/102197?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dparking%252Bbrake%252Bswitch%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1973&year=1973

How was the flow with the previous motor? Did you have to move the old squirrel cage to the new motor? If airflow was better with the original setup, I would start with the new motor. It may be rotating in a direction opposite to the original motor.

I have a convertible, so my opinion may not matter. There are some other potential differences between a coupe and a fastback besides the main cabin floor - like carpeting behind a fold-down seat. Perhaps that could lead to a part number difference rather than the carpet that goes on the floor...

The flapper is crimped to the shaft. You will need to spread the crimps and then pull the shaft out of the flapper.

Literally could have been a pain in the ass.

Guess that solves that.

Sadly I know a guy who traded a split window Corvette in on a Ford Capri. Panic selling is just as bad as panic buying...

If the cores are good, Just Dashes can rework them. They have original texture and colors. For the carpet, you need to cut it and then attach a binding to the edges that are not under the stainless trim.

It's possible one or more of the diodes have failed. Should be easy enough to take the alternator in to a parts store and have them test it.

After 50 years, there aren't many NOS parts that can be used without being refurbished. From a personal perspective, I want my car to be as original as possible, within reason. I am building a car that Ford never produced, but my goal it to make it look like they did. I have no schedule and...

Which one are you looking for? Concours correct or something that will work?

Get some flexible ductwork that fits over your exhaust pipes and run it out the garage. Close the garage door but leave enough room for the ducts. Or you can put a pet door in the garage door and run the ducts out the pet door.

I have found Anghel Restorations to be a good resource for concours type information. They have a number of PDF downloads that describe how original suspensions, drivetrains, etc. were put together. The photos of their projects are pretty impressive too.

I haven't decided which way I will go on my car - so I have one set up with woodgrain and a camera case textured one in black. One way to approach it is to match the door panels. Black may look better with standard panels, woodgrained better with deluxe panels.

As a general comment, AMK is easy to work with as far as locating fasteners that aren't in any of their kits. If you have a part number from the Ford parts manual, they can usually supply what you need. As an example, AMK doesn't have a kit for the pedal support or steering column brackets...

Worn valve guides, most likely. Oil gets past while the engine is not running.