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71-73s had a 3/8" line from tank to pump, 5/16" from pump to carb. It's plenty of capacity for what you're building. I'd recommend a call to Lykins, Bullet or Schneider for cam recommendations. Get the cam, lifter and valve springs/retainers from them as well.

Take the inlet hose off the pump, use a remote starter switch hooked to the solenoid and place a finger over the inlet of the pump. Crank the engine over for a couple seconds with the key off. You should feel it pulsing. If it doesn't the pump is likely bad. If it does, drop a length of fuel...

Kiwi has a short video on replacing the transmission output shaft bushing on a Mach 1. Nice little ride a long at the end.

LOL.... "$hit-show" - one of my favorite automotive terms..... Red Edelbrock pump is just an electric "clicky-clack" pump for carbs and it's zip tied to your lower AC compressor mounting bracket. They work, but not usually long term. Handy for quick fixes or roadside emergencies. The AC hoses...

Yep, pry bar time. Sometimes you just need to choose violence.

First car was a '73 Grande' in 1989. Have always had at least one since then, except for a couple years with a Torino GT. There was a meme going around about how the average person owns eight cars in their lifetime (LOL) so all my friends sat down and catalogued the cars we have owned. I'm at 48...

Value at the end of the road all depends on you and the quality of the free body and paint you're getting. Pristine examples of '73 Q-code Machs tend to top out in the low $30k range on BaT. Drivers are in the $15~20k range...

Those pics have been floating around Facebook for months, if not a couple years. They keep getting reposted by scammers from Cameroon, etc. I cannot tell you how many times I've deleted and banned people that post those pics on the FB Groups I moderate. Unless you are physically able to go to...

You have it correct. The extension is to use a 2 barrel kickdown on a 4 barrel carb and intake. The centerline of the primary throttle shaft is further forward on a 4V carb.

Copper/brass radiators are making a comeback. I see that NPD now has not only US Radiator ($$$) but now Thermal Solutions, who makes their copper/brass heater cores. $550 is a lot easier to handle than the $900 US Radiator option...

There's been some "rigging" going on with your brake pedal setup. The manual and power brake switches are different part numbers. IIRC, the difference is in the spring rate. That "square-U" thing looks like they were using it as a shim. I'm willing to bet that the bolt was added by...

I've owned over 40 71-73 Mustangs and they all had the blue oval logo - if they hadn't fallen off.

Yep, 1350 front to back.

Installed the freshly arrived Strange 3.5" driveshaft.

Having done this work, the best advise I can give is to replace only what's needed. If the inner is solid, and most of the outer, than only replace the rusted portion. Separating the inner and outer is an absolute PITA.

That's a pic of my '71. It's also present on our 71 XR7 and is currently powering the HEI and choke. The green female plug is for the automatic transmission shifter illumination, wire will be brown. Should only be hot when the lights are on.

Single wire in the engine bay harness with the white barrel connector shown by the Red arrow.

The white w/black stripe will start in the alternator harness, to a plug below the starter solenoid which connects it to the main engine bay harness. That harness wraps around the front of the car, and then terminates that wire behind the passenger valve cover. There will be two flat rubber...

Another option would be to decrease the bore of the master cylinder piston, which will reduce the required pressure, but increase pedal travel.

In the Mach, I'm running a Champion CC381 3 row radiator, factory shroud, factory non-Ac pulleys, Hayden 2710 clutch and a 69 Cougar 351W w/AC clutch fan. $5 parts store MotoRad 180° t-stat. Car idles at 900rpms, 195~200 all day, highest I've seen it climb is 205 in traffic on a 90° day. I have...