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Huh! Proper clamps don't need to be "doubled up".

Yeah, why not. And while you're in there........................

I went with SS lines that were supposedly pre-bent, but still needed 'adjustments'. Rubber hose needs to be fuel injector grade, but even then, I found the outside surface is not that gas resistant. If you're this far into the job, replacing lines make absolute sense. I also suggest getting new...

Don, you took the words out of my 'mouth' so to speak. You saved me a lot of one finger typing! Gear or worm clamps have their uses, but NOT on fuel lines other than for setup and testing.

It's not a miracle worker, but it takes time, needs to soak for a while. It cleaned my lenses up just like you see in the pic. If the discoloring is within the actual acrylic plastic, you may not be able to get them any better and may need to replace the lenses/lights.

IF they were out of the car, I'd suggest brake fluid. It won't harm the acrylic, but will eat any crud or paint overspray if there is any. That however is a major job as the lights need to be totally taken apart. Winter project??!!

It ought to be a 9". You can tell a 9" by a bump in the case facing you if you look under the rear end.

It probably wouldn't be a problem as long as the tank isn't full to the brim. As far as gunk goes, I suppose it's possible, but one would think any gunk would fall to the bottom of the tank. It would be nice to know what Ford used. No-one seems to have any idea.

I used course Scotch-Brite sanding type material and may regret that, but before I put that in, I soaked it in gas for a week or more with no sign of it breaking down. Is it still in there?? who knows and I'm not about to drop the tank to find out. This material's main purpose is to help prevent...

Agreed. Or something similar that won't break down in gasoline.

I can't remember what mine was like, too long ago and too short a memory! BUT I see from your photo why it has three tabs. One is inboard of the opening and the other two fit the locate slots. It would be confusing for sure.

That's a very useful diagram. In it "Y" is basically the same as my sketch except it describes the bottom surface of the bushing, whereas I picked the top. In retrospect, the bottom would be more correct as it is the seating surface for the center link. In my original 1971 Ford manual, I'm not...

That's odd! I bought the same tank and fitted the original vapour separator without any problem. Can you post a pic of your vapour separator?

Perhaps they put it up on jack stands so you just couldn't go and drag it out of there, which I think I would have done a long time ago. I understand shops are busy and often more pressing work needs to be done first, but they should not have taken on the job if they knew it was not going to get...

Thanks for clarifying the part you have. Perhaps you're right, a tight bushing. Now, I have to eat some "humble pie". I went back over my receipts from NPD and found the one for the idler arm I actually bought in 2015. It was NOT the Rare Parts one as I thought. It was 3355-1 but it too matches...

Just curious, what brand / make idler arm did you put in there? The geometry of some repops may not be as the original and if so, that will undoubtedly cause problems. That could be what is causing some of your issue. Here's a sketch I did to illustrate what I mean. Sorry, this copy is not very...

Oh that sucks!! NOS means "New Old Stock" not "old rusty piece"!

There might also be another way of removing rust. I have not tried this method, but may try it to see if it works. I was watching an episode of "Combat Dealers", a UK show where they go out looking for WWII relics to restore and sell to collectors. In this episode, they had retrieved an...

This is just my unqualified opinion as I'm not a bodywork "expert", but if it were me, I'd replace the entire panel. My thinking is this; If the picture of the inside (pic #2) has that much rust already in the steel, before too long it's going to eat through and cause pin holes, or worse, around...

Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada... and another M code owner. Many here far more knowledgeable than I, so ask away. We also love pictures and the back story if you'd like to share. Geoff.