1971 Stang new carb

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Of those two the 80783C, but I don't understand why you'd want to spend the extra over the 80458SA. You don't need any more CFM on a stock motor.

Yes, if you can take the carb off and drain the coolant you can take of the intake yourself:)

 
So I should buy

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-2

http://www.holley.com/0-80783C.asp

http://www.holley.com/20-124.asp

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2750

http://www.holley.com/34-150.asp

Any other parts ?

Best regards

Francesco

Of those two the 80783C, but I don't understand why you'd want to spend the extra over the 80458SA. You don't need any more CFM on a stock motor.

Yes, if you can take the carb off and drain the coolant you can take of the intake yourself:)
 
Actually, the universal installation kit has the ball studs with it, so you do not need to buy the kit I showed you. Do you have a piece to match your stock fuel line, to the dual feed line shown? I don't see new intake manifold gaskets listed here..

 
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Round spacer for top of carb because the air cleaner housing doesnt fit perfectly over the 4barrel carb. I believe 1/2inch worked on mine without hitting the hood, but only barely. Then again i have a convertbl and my motor mounts are taller so you may be able to use a taller spacer.


Also the oem pcv hose is too large to stay on the new carbs. You will need to either put a sleeve of thin wall hose in the oem hose (my preference) or get a new piece of thinner hose.

 
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Does mechanical secondaries make more power even if you adjust the springs for the vac secondaries? I've always preferred vac 2nd because it seemed like a smoother transition. But that could also be tuning.

 
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Holley says you can go from "mild to wild" with a quick spring change on the secondaries on their street avenger series. Mechanical secondaries are for manual trans cars.

 
So ?

What I have to do ? Stay with my actual Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 D 2bbl or buy a new one ?

I don't want to do too much adaptation or modification to install the new carb also because I have to do by myself since here in Italy there are no good mechanics to work on the V8 engine US made, those one that tried made just disasters to my Stang

What I have to do ?

Holley says you can go from "mild to wild" with a quick spring change on the secondaries on their street avenger series. Mechanical secondaries are for manual trans cars.
 
You do NOT need this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-20-2

If you buy the rest of what you have listed.

You do need to have new intake manifold gaskets:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7265

These do not show the "end" pieces, so you will have to lay a 1/4 inch thick bead of RTV to seal the front and rear of the intake manifold.

This may be a better fuel feed line, as it includes a "barb" that you can connect rubber fuel line to.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1558/overview/

I believe you can do the job your self! If you have a basic socket set, it isn't too bad. A torque wrench would help ensure you don't over tighten the bolts when you reinstall the intake manifold.

The cast iron intake is heavy, and well sealed to the heads! After you have the intake manifold bolts out, the intake may not want to come off, don't let that bother you. Use a pry tool as necessary. Just make sure you have all the bolts out.

A vacuum gauge is very handy to tune the engine when you get it back together. You may need to make a slight adjustment to your timing, to take the best advantage of your new carb and intake.

Also, if you don't know how old the timing gear set is, you should replace it. They stretch over time, and cause LOTS of hard to identify idle and performance issues.

If you are going to replace the carb and intake manifold, now would be a really good time to do it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clo-9-1121/overview/make/ford

This set has the end pieces, for the intake set.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1240

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-2710

How to tune:


 
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So ?

What I have to do ? Stay with my actual Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 D 2bbl or buy a new one ?

I don't want to do too much adaptation or modification to install the new carb also because I have to do by myself since here in Italy there are no good mechanics to work on the V8 engine US made, those one that tried made just disasters to my Stang

What I have to do ?
Since you're doing it yourself and you prefer not modify or change the intake, I would just get a new 2 bbl carb like this:

http://www.holley.com/0-4412C.asp

And you'll probably also want the electric choke kit and Ford kickdown bracket (both shown on that same Holley page). ALOT less expensive and much easier than changing the intake.

 
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Thanks a lot

Do you know in Los Angeles where can I find this carb and accessories ( spark plugs, cables, gauge manometer to measure the gas pressure..)

Regards

Francesco

So ?

What I have to do ? Stay with my actual Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 D 2bbl or buy a new one ?

I don't want to do too much adaptation or modification to install the new carb also because I have to do by myself since here in Italy there are no good mechanics to work on the V8 engine US made, those one that tried made just disasters to my Stang

What I have to do ?
Since you're doing it yourself and you prefer not modify or change the intake, I would just get a new 2 bbl carb like this:

http://www.holley.com/0-4412C.asp

And you'll probably also want the electric choke kit and Ford kickdown bracket (both shown on that same Holley page). ALOT less expensive and much easier than changing the intake.
 
Thanks a lot

Do you know in Los Angeles where can I find this carb and accessories ( spark plugs, cables, gauge manometer to measure the gas pressure..)

Regards

Francesco
You can get the carb on the Holley website.

The spark plugs, wires and vacuum guage you can most likely get at any large auto parts store in the USA or online at many places including Summit.

I don't know any stores in LA, it's far away. I'm in San Jose (closer to San Francisco).

 
Francesco, since you are kind of a novice, I strongly suggest you keep it as simple as possible so you can just enjoy driving without having to work on your carb a lot. A Holley is a great csrb, but to work the best it needs a skilled Holley-familiar owner to care for it.

I say go with the 650 Edlebrock: great carb, very simple, works awesome, and will probably bolt on right out of the box and work near-percectly without any adjustments.

Get an Edlebrock "Performer" series ( which is a dual-plane manifold, better for street use) manifold.

These will both bolt right up, and your engine will run almost as strong as a stock 351 4V.

 
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Kit, he will still have the issue of needing to change the manifold, unless the 94 series works on the Cleveland 2 barrel manifolds. No idea if it does.

Holleys are tuned "pretty good" out of the box these days so I really don't think it will be too much of an issue for him.

Francesco, the stores in Los Angeles area that can help you are:

Pep Boys

AutoZone

NAPA Auto Parts

These three are big chain stores that have them all over the place. Most of them would have to order the carb for you though and likely wouldn't have it in stock. Most of the speed shops that would have had these in stock have closed up due to online ordering like Summit and Jegs.

 
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