ACC boss hog torque converter

[Omie01]

Just fishing for a little experience. I bought the ACC Boss Hog torque converter for my car 22-2800 stall. My trans cooler says to run tranny lines in series through the radiator, but ACC says to run just a tranny cooler for the torque converter. Does anybody have any info which is better? Also they say to pull the converter 1/16-3/16" out of the trans (not more than 5/16) and to shim any extra space. Did anybody have to shim for more space? Thanks Gents!!!

 

[Silverback]

It seems like everyone has their own opinion what is the right thing to do with a tranny cooler...

I feel the only correct way to do it is to run it in series before the in-radiator cooler if possible, the engine heats up the water fastest and most of us run a cooler thermostat in a performance car and if the cooling system is sufficient it runs about 160-180* (typically a little cooler in the end tank), which is pretty close to the optimum range for the transmission. That way you're using the cooling system the warm up the transmission to operating temp faster when it's cold and if it gets hot enough that the external cooler cannot keep up you're using it to cool it down.

Some argue that it should be mounted after the radiator, because coolant temperatures run high enough that you're in the range of hurting fluid and trans life... I would argue that if you're seeing significantly >200* in your radiator your cooling system is insufficient and I wouldn't be surprised if your engine is running well >220* and overheating.

Finally, running just the cooler, well sometimes is necessary if you don't have a radiator from an automatic equipped car or if that cooler was damaged, but you have no temperature regulation on the low end and you have nothing to help on the high end if you generate more heat than you can dissapate with your external cooler.

 

[c9zx]

I follow these guidelines and have not had a problem. http://www.carid.com/images//bm/cooling-systems/pdf/coolers-user-guide.pdf

I've never used shims on a converter but, I'm not an auto transmission expert either. The only reason I can think of to do that is to get proper converter to pump engagement correct. If that is the case I'd assume the shims would go between the converter mounting studs and the flex plate.

I've never heard of ACC or "Boss Hog" converters but, the name alone scares me. Just an opinion. Chuck

 

[jbojo]

I am using the B&M cooler and have my setup as c9zx link recommends. My radiator cools really well and I am not seeing the cooling fan come on for the tranny. Maybe when the temp reaches 100 here the fan may come on. I never heard of using shims either.

 

[TommyK]

I ran an ACC converter in an FMX behind both a 4V cleveland and a 460. I had no issues with it. I sold it when I swapped in the C6 and as far as I know it is still in use.

I also have a B&M stacked plate cooler but mine is hooked up in series with the radiator cooler.

The recommendation I followed was that if the car would be run in cold weather it is a good idea to utilize the radiator cooler so as to get the tranny fluid warm faster in cold weather. Don't know how valid that recommendation was but that is what I did and it has been that way for 8 or 9 years and no issues.

Never heard of shimming the torque converter. Usually the issue is not enough freeplay rather than too much.

 

[Silverback]

I follow these guidelines and have not had a problem. http://www.carid.com/images//bm/cooling-systems/pdf/coolers-user-guide.pdf

Of course a transmission cooler instructions are going to give you the recommendation that will give you the most cooling, though to be technically correct their cooler will work the most efficiently when mounted where it gets the hottest inlet temperatures.

It doesn't matter...

the fact is that if you read what they wrote, that you want to maintain transmission temps of 160-200* (very close to what I suggested) and that you'll get double the fluid life at 175 that you will at 200 (which is the reason that I suggested 160-180), then if you have a sufficient cooling system which has a typical 160* thermostat, my suggestion of mounting the auxiliary/external cooler before the radiator cooler will keep the transmission fluid temp in the correct range the largest percentage of the time.

The only time I would do it their way is on a hot running engine, and even then I would be looking for how to cool that down, since an engine running hot enough to need this will not be making best power.

I've never used shims on a converter but, I'm not an auto transmission expert either. The only reason I can think of to do that is to get proper converter to pump engagement correct. If that is the case I'd assume the shims would go between the converter mounting studs and the flex plate.

I didn't say anything about this because I could see how this would change from transmission to transmission and converter to converter and most of my experience is with GM transmissions. That said, I usually eyeball it: get the converter fully seated in the pump and then get the bellhousing bolted down, a

t that point I hope to see (and always have seen) ~1/8" (maybe 1/16-3/16") between the converter and the flex plate. If it was right up against it, or more than about 1/4" I'd be concerned something was wrong. I've seen it right up against the flexplate (usually newer converters with lockup), where the converter was not properly seated before the transmission was installed, but I've never seen more than about 3/16" gap (well I have in pictures on the internet ;-) )

 

[Omie01]

Well since I live in Minnesota EEh!! I will just hook it up in series first and see how things go, If temps seem a little warm, I'll try just the cooler. I ended up getting the Napa thermostat, hopefully it does its job!! I measured the distance from my block w/inspection plate to inside of flex plate and it measures about 1", and the bell housing to converter bolt pad is about 1 1/16", so from my initial measurements I should be well within range. Thanks for the info gents!!! Always helpful!!!

 

[Silverback]

I don't think that anyone is suggesting not hooking it up in series, it's just a question of before or after the radiator. If you're talking about a trans cooler thermostat then it really doesn't matter, since it will bypass whatever you do till you read the thermostat temp. In that case I might actually consider running it in series after the radiator instead of before like I usually would, and for that matter, as long as the cooler is big enough with the thermostat it would work without running it in series also.