Another rotisserie question

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Dec 10, 2017
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My Car
1973 Mach 1 "Q Code"
I am thinking about picking a rotisserie up for my build project and am wondering if I will need to buy additional brackets for the mounting. I plan to mount up front where the bumper mounts and at the rear where the leaf springs mount closest to the rear bumper. I have to replace the rear lights panel and rear cross member as well as the trunk floor and floor plans and cannot mount to the rear bumper mounts that a lot of YouTube videos suggest to. Anyone else mounted their rotisserie to the same points, pics maybe?  Below is a pic of the one I have been looking at on CL. Thanks and I appreciate any advice.

Tom



 
Imagining that setup I think you might end up getting some weird torqe across the body and having issues once its set back down. Can you replace anything related to the rear bumber mounts and then bolt it up like normal to get under?

 
Yea, I was wondering about the torque issues across the body as well but I have heard so many on here and the web that really preach that a rotisserie is the way to go and makes body work so much easier. I currently have the rear light panel off and have cut out a lot of the trunk pan already so if I have to finish the trunk pan and rear panel prior to using a rotisserie, that will take a while before I can finish it. I'm hoping that a rotisserie will help save my back from a little more discomfort.

Being as how locking the rear leaf spring mounts onto the rotisserie, wouldn't that help with retaining correct dimensions during the trunk and floor pan replacement? Maybe keep it on the ground until the pans are all done and then use it to flip the car over to get the finish points completed? Thoughts?

Tom

 
Hi,

The normal place to mount is to the rear spring mount hole. The one I have has had 65 and 69 mustangs on it holding that way. The rotisserie is not where you finish the car but where you do lots of the repairs that are under or in odd positions. When you do the panel fit for last time it does need to be on tires and with equivilant weight equal to engine trans etc.. After panel fit you tear back apart and paint.

You might even want to do part of the work on the rotisserie then off to install the new panels and then back on to finish all the welds and seal and prime. Everything does have an equal and opposite reaction to gravity. The body bends regardless of on tires or rotisserie.

I was mounting a scope for a friend one day and had the barrel and action in a vise on a Bridgeport mill. Was align boring the scope rings to the bore of the barrel. I showed him with a dial indicator how I could bend the barrel of his $600 rifle with one finger and light pressure.

When you pick a body up with a lift the door gaps change significantly that is why you need to be on the wheels to do final fit.

That rotisserie looks short be sure the center spine is long enough for a mustang. If it was used on Camaro they are several feet shorter due the the bolt on sub frame up front.

Mine has some spacers for the front bumper mount holes so you only have 4 circles about 2" in diameter that you cannot get to .

The brackets sitting on the arms are what bolts to the rear spring mount and the 4 red bushings go between the frame and the arms on the font end.

The spine that is in the rotisserie in these pics is for a Camaro the Mustang is several feet longer.

The small wheels might be tough to move have you tried with weight on it? You can always upgrade. You do not have to move much unless you are going outside to blast and back into paint booth. You run out of room in a hurry for sure.

Once you have one you will kick yourself for not getting earlier. Mine was only $800 and used like you are looking. Hey you cannot wear it out and a coat of paint makes it look new.

A tip when painting to keep nice is to use stretch wrap to wrap so it does not get the over spray all over it. You can get the paint mixed at Lowe's to Ford blue like I used.

David











 
Thanks David for your insight and the pics. I do intend to do final fitting of things like the doors, fenders, quarterpanels while on the ground. I was hoping to do the floor and trunk pans on the rotisserie though because I wanted to first, remove the rear diff and suspension, turn it upside down, remove everything else like brake lines, fuel lines, etc and then finish cutting the floor and trunk pans out and do the install in the right side up position. Does this sound feasible or after removing all of the stuff underneath, will or should I just put the rear diff back on and sit it on the ground, do the pans and then continue from there? As far at this rotisserie looking short, I was thinking that as well, I will see if the seller has the remaining center braces before buying it, I am looking at possibly picking it up for a good price, so if necessary, I am prepared to pick up a couple more pieces of steel to complete the braces. Thanks for the advice and standing by for any more that you may have.

Tom

 
Thanks David for your insight and the pics. I do intend to do final fitting of things like the doors, fenders, quarterpanels while on the ground. I was hoping to do the floor and trunk pans on the rotisserie though because I wanted to first, remove the rear diff and suspension, turn it upside down, remove everything else like brake lines, fuel lines, etc and then finish cutting the floor and trunk pans out and do the install in the right side up position.  Does this sound feasible or after removing all of the stuff underneath, will or should I just put the rear diff back on and sit it on the ground, do the pans and then continue from there?  As far at this rotisserie looking short, I was thinking that as well, I will see if the seller has the remaining center braces before buying it, I  am looking at possibly picking it up for a good price, so if necessary, I am prepared to pick up a couple more pieces of steel to complete the braces.  Thanks for the advice and standing by for any more that you may have.

Tom

If you add some additional bracing before you cut the pans out you can probably get by with welding on the rotisserie. But still just more real world to be sitting on the chassis. The assembly line used the big holes in the frame rails to locate in assembly. The ones the chassis dimensions come off of in the Ford chassis manual. Did you have the car checked on frame machine yet? Always a good place to start.

I was watching one of the high dollar auto restore shows on velocity the other day and when they got finished with a car it was not right and the frame was the issue so they had to go back and straighten. You can bend one of these cars easily just jacking it up wrong or crossing a rough place that twists the body. If you start with a flat true platform you will be much better in the end.

Some of those guys on there do not know what they are doing but I guess they talk well in front of a camera.

That can be another thread, lol.

David
 
Yea, there are a lot of those tv shows that have people that really don't have a clue about what they are supposed to be an expert on but can put on a good act in front of the camera. I actually know a few people that have multiple IT certifications but cannot do the task. They took a multiple choice certification exam and passed, half of them have never had their hands on the actual equipment. I, on the other hand, have multiple certifications but make it a point to actually doing the work, learning from experience and then take the exam. That is how I am going after the work on this car, ask a few questions, watch a couple videos, and get my hands dirty working on it. I am pretty good with wrenches and working on cars but this car will definitely be a learning experience.

Tried to get a hold of the guy with the rotisserie today, no answer, going to try again tomorrow. I do plan to do most of the welding while it is on the ground though. I have not had the car to a frame shop but I did download the dimensions and will start measuring it out. If I get a chance this week, I will see if I can get it on a trailer to a frame shop to verify though. Thanks for the suggestion.

Tom

 
Well the guy that I was planning on buying from sold it before I got to his house yesterday. Still plan on getting one though, found a Weaver Rotisserie on ebay that doesn't sound too bad on price and it says free shipping and has the mounting brackets included, so I will probably look into that one. Anyone have any experience pros or cons with the Weaver brand? Here's a link to the one on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weaver-W-Rotisserie-Auto-Rotisserie/323014855227?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks for any input

Tom

 
Well the guy that I was planning on buying from sold it before I got to his house yesterday. Still plan on getting one though, found a Weaver Rotisserie on ebay that doesn't sound too bad on price and it says free shipping and has the mounting brackets included, so I will probably look into that one. Anyone have any experience pros or cons with the Weaver brand?  Here's a link to the one on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Weaver-W-Rotisserie-Auto-Rotisserie/323014855227?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Thanks for any input

Tom
Tom,

The only comment I would make is that you might want to add some stabilizer legs on that you run down to the floor to take some of the wiggle out when you are working on it. See pic. I see there is another called a Titian on ebay for 899 it has an option of the stabilizer legs. I do not know anything about either just an observation on the legs.

You could add yourself when you get just makes it a little more solid once the car is mounted. Pad on the foot just locks it down the castors tend to wiggle.

That is a bummer when you go to get something and they just sold it. I was going to Atlanta a 600 mile trip to pick up a 73 coupe that had been a failed project and he sold to some other guy that just showed up. I had to go anyway and pick up other parts I have committed to buy on cl.

David



picture upload

 
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