Best Clutch selection?

[Stanglover]

I have read the previous posts on this subject, but I would like honest opinions on clutch selection. I currently have an 11" Centerforce 2 in my 351 C 4V with a 3.25:1 open dif. As most of you will know, my engine is back at the engine builder, not going into those details here. At the shop I inspected my clutch and while it still looks really good, it was always a heavy clutch with the factory linkages. I have up-graded the pedal shaft to bearings, hoping that will help a bit, but as the helper spring has long gone, I was thinking about going with a Centerforce Dual Friction. I know a few guys (with, hmm! Camaro's) who really like the feel of them. In the Mustang, that may be different, so my question is this: Does anyone have actual experience of the two types. Are they comparable regards pedal pressure? No sense changing if I don't get an easier clutch pedal. I do have a wife who loves to drive my car, but with a left knee replacement, she finds the one I have too hard. (this is not a bad thing!!)

Anyway, a few opinions would be useful.

Thanks,

Geoff.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I pulled my z bar and replaced the plastic bushings with brass, welded up the egg shaped hole and redrilled it and then built a rod end based clutch push rod. This reduced the effort noticeably. It also made it much more linear in feel and not notchy as it had been.

Raising the seat height even a half inch also made leverage better and felt easier.

 

[Stanglover]

I pulled my z bar and replaced the plastic bushings with brass, welded up the egg shaped hole and redrilled it and then built a rod end based clutch push rod. This reduced the effort noticeably. It also made it much more linear in feel and not notchy as it had been.

Raising the seat height even a half inch also made leverage better and felt easier.

Thanks Jeff, Maybe something to look at with the Z bar. Did you happen to take pictures?

As for raising the seat, well, I'm vertically challenged, so my seat position is closer to the wheel than I would like. I did raise it by 3/8" and any more my legs are into the s/wheel. These cars were not build for 'regular sized' people, only 6 footers!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Thankfully, I am a six footer.

I took pictures

This was the initial version, it ended up being shorter. The trick is that rod ends are fine thread and the adjuster rod is coarse thread. I took some 1/2 tubing and swedged it down in a vice, then tapped it to get a coupler that would work.

here is the z bar before I cleaned up the hole, you can see how much metal I added in order to make it close to round again

as to the brass bushings, I can't find the link, but I ordered them and they were really cheap. If I can locate the part number I'll let you know

 

[Stanglover]

Thankfully, I am a six footer.

I took pictures

This was the initial version, it ended up being shorter. The trick is that rod ends are fine thread and the adjuster rod is coarse thread. I took some 1/2 tubing and swedged it down in a vice, then tapped it to get a coupler that would work.

here is the z bar before I cleaned up the hole, you can see how much metal I added in order to make it close to round again

as to the brass bushings, I can't find the link, but I ordered them and they were really cheap. If I can locate the part number I'll let you know

Awesome Jeff, Thanks. This looks like something that many others might want to duplicate. I'll definitely look at this mod. The whole original design was a cluster!!

Geoff. (@ 5' 4"!! )

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I suspect you can also use a female rod end and retap it for coarse threads and use your original adjuster, but I didn't have one laying around and it would limit your adjustment range.

When the z bar gets worn, the elongated holes make everything bind. The stud that mounted to the z bar through which the factory clutch push rod passed was eaten down to 1/2 it's size.

 

[Stanglover]

I suspect you can also use a female rod end and retap it for coarse threads and use your original adjuster, but I didn't have one laying around and it would limit your adjustment range.

When the z bar gets worn, the elongated holes make everything bind. The stud that mounted to the z bar through which the factory clutch push rod passed was eaten down to 1/2 it's size.

Good info. Jeff. I appreciate your experience. Gives me a heads up on what to look at when I get to that part of the re-build. Got a ton of other stuff I want/need to do before the motor goes back in.

However, still no comments from anyone on actual clutch preference for performance and ease of use.

Geoff.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I did run the Centerforce dual friction and clutch pedal pressure was nice and performance was fine. I made my comments because my current iron sintered McLeod is very heavy and this change made a notivable difference0 like 30 % or more. I would keep your clutch and do this first as I think it will make it feel better and save you the cost of a new clutch and another 5-700 mile break in

 

[Stanglover]

I did run the Centerforce dual friction and clutch pedal pressure was nice and performance was fine. I made my comments because my current iron sintered McLeod is very heavy and this change made a notivable difference0 like 30 % or more. I would keep your clutch and do this first as I think it will make it feel better and save you the cost of a new clutch and another 5-700 mile break in

Jeff, this is very helpful information. If that mod can make that much difference, then I'll certainly look at that first. The Centerforce 2 holds well, but like I said is heavy especially for slow driving in traffic or parades. I can always drop a new clutch in later. Good to know that the Dual Friction had nice pedal pressure.

Thanks again for your valuable input,

Geoff.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

If you get to Toronto say high to my sister

 

[Stanglover]

If you get to Toronto say high to my sister

Hmmm! TO is a big place!!

 

[Stanglover]

@ Jeff73Mach1

Re: brass bushings for the Z bar. Any chance you came across the link as to where you found them? I've been looking myself, but no luck so far. That job is next on the list and yes, my bar's lower hole is about like the one you had to weld up. I have some other ideas to build a strong functional system in mind, just got to figure it all out and build it.

Thanks again,

Geoff.