Changing Pumpkin

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Hey Mike -

When you replace the pumpkin, I think you'll probably have to change U-joint and speedometer gear. That's what I had to do when I went from 2.75 to 3.50 on my 'vert.
Have not heard about replacing the U-joint.

Speedo gear for sure, need to lookup what color

I need. Tell me more about the U-joint.

Why did you change a 2.75 to 3.50 :cool:

mike

 
But I need my hands. :p
Ha, Ha, Ha :dodgy: Good catch !!! But if you have ever done it, you know what I mean !:cool:

 
The U joint won't need to be changed unless the pinion yokes are made to accept differently sized bearing cups. If they are different, you will likely need a "combination" U joint that has two different sized bearing cups. Chuck

 
The U joint won't need to be changed unless the pinion yokes are made to accept differently sized bearing cups. If they are different, you will likely need a "combination" U joint that has two different sized bearing cups. Chuck
That is a good point.

The car came with a 3.25 standard and that was changed to a 2.75

for better gas mileage long before I bought the car.

I have read that when you move into a 3.50 and above things change.

The 3.50 and above diffs are built differently. Got the oil, cover

gasket and bought a set of copper washers and nuts from Don.

The pumpkin will be here Tuesday :D

mike

 
Pumpkin has arrived.

My mechanic said it does not look like the one in the car now

which he replaced long before I bought the car.

The car came with a 3.25 standard axle and he replaced that with a

2.75 posi. This new one is 3.50 posi.

To cut to the quick, Don of OMS has scored once again :D

The pumpkin looks brand new except for some external surface rust.

You could cut your finger on the teeth of the ring gear.

Question, what holds the axle on?

mike

HPIM3199.JPG

 
The axles are help in place by the plates (4 studs) at the end of the axle tube.

 
Pumpkin has arrived.

My mechanic said it does not look like the one in the car now

which he replaced long before I bought the car.

The car came with a 3.25 standard axle and he replaced that with a

2.75 posi. This new one is 3.50 posi.

To cut to the quick, Don of OMS has scored once again :D

The pumpkin looks brand new except for some external surface rust.

You could cut your finger on the teeth of the ring gear.

Question, what holds the axle on?

mike
To add to what trainey said. The 4 bolts you removed from the brake plates, to slide out the axles, is the only thing holding the axles. The axle just slides back into the carrier gear, then are held in place by the 4 bolts. I am guessing you were asking if there were more than just the 4 bolts.:s

 
To add to what trainey said. The 4 bolts you removed from the brake plates, to slide out the axles, is the only thing holding the axles. The axle just slides back into the carrier gear, then are held in place by the 4 bolts. I am guessing you were asking if there were more than just the 4 bolts.:s
My mechanic is fretting about the c-clips thinking they may be worn.

I was thinking they had something to do with holding the axle in

place. Just want to get my ducks lined up so the job takes two hours

and not two days :-/

mike

 
Go and find a mechanic who knows what he's doing, Their is a circus in town and they are missing a clown...

THEIR ARE NO FRIGGIN C- CLIPS IN A FORD NINE INCH. Full Stop...................................................................

The bloke is a total Drongo for telling you so, I very much doubt he could drive a greesy stick up a dead dingo's ass let alone install bearings and retainers onto an axle shaft....

The bearings are kept in place by retaining rings, which you need to heat [expand] before slidding on the axle shaft, easyest way to get them off is to hit them with a cold chisel [hard] once on oppisite sides, [lenght ways the same as the axle, if that makes sense] normally they come off, some time you need to apply a little heat with a oxy welding tip, you do not need to use a cutting tip, too much heat....

 
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i don't recommend the heat on the bearing retailers, just score with a dremal hit with a cold chisel, then either press the new ones on or hammer in place. the heat can cause problems if you don't know what you are doing.

have your mechanic read my wiki

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-rebuild-a-ford-9-inch

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-rebuild-a-ford-9-inch-part-2

there are no clips like a chevy uses.

the axles are held by the bearing retainer rings, which sandwich the bearing against the axle plate, the plate bolts into the axle housing and holds the axle in place.

100_2834.jpg


now if you screw up installing the bearing retainer rings then the axle can walk out of the center diff and start falling out of the car.

a chevy uses C clips to lock the ends of the axles into the center diff housing. Chevy axles also have a back plate that comes off, you put the nose of the pumpkin into the axle housing slide the shafts in then install the C clips and finally put the rear cover on.

fords have a 1 piece axle there is no back plate, the nose of the pumpkin goes on, and there is no way to slide the axles in and secure them at the center diff, So ford uses plates as seen in the photo above with 4 bolts through the drum backing plate with seals to secure the axle inside the axle case.

the end, NO C clips on a ford 9 inch

 
As a side note when and or if your heating anything to fitt/install, gently, gently is the way to go, if you heat somthing to the point the surface finish changes colour, you've buggered it - too hot.

The best thing I've found for doing axle bearings at home is the kitchen oven, per heat the oven to 250'C or more if it will go, basically just crank the oven up full. Then pop in the axle bearings and retainers, warm for 10min, 15 minutes max, then remove one at a time and install, easyest way is to use a lenght of pipe the same size as the inner race, to tap it into place....

no bullshit it works....

 
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Go and find a mechanic who knows what he's doing, Their is a circus in town and they are missing a clown...

THEIR ARE NO FRIGGIN C- CLIPS IN A FORD NINE INCH. Full Stop...................................................................

The bloke is a total Drongo for telling you so, I very much doubt he could drive a greesy stick up a dead dingo's ass let alone install bearings and retainers onto an axle shaft....

The bearings are kept in place by retaining rings, which you need to heat [expand] before slidding on the axle shaft, easyest way to get them off is to hit them with a cold chisel [hard] once on oppisite sides, [lenght ways the same as the axle, if that makes sense] normally they come off, some time you need to apply a little heat with a oxy welding tip, you do not need to use a cutting tip, too much heat....
+1-- Right on !!:D your'e so called mechanic is lost, don't let him work on your car. :mad: He is blowing smoke up your A$$. If you take the advise you have been given here, you could do the job yourself. It's not difficult, even if you have never changed out a 3rd member before. Just beware of the weight, it is heavier than you think !! I found that out the first time I had mine out!:blush: Much more knowledge here about our cars than many mechanics know.

 
Go and find a mechanic who knows what he's doing, Their is a circus in town and they are missing a clown...
While not trying to defend my mechanic's knowledge or judgement,

he did turn the first picture into the second picture.

He has some idea of which end of a screwdriver to use.

Still don't know what he means by c-clips.

mike

HPIM2914.JPG

HPIM3144.JPG

 
That subject has been hashed to death. Like stated earlier. You can do the job yourself if you like. I can post up the service manual pages if you should choose to go in that direction. I love 9 inch Fords just because you can do the ring and pinion on a bench to set your clearances and don't have to lay under the car to do it like GM's. Let me know if you need the book.

 
Also not the beat this one to death, but I just used a Slide hammer to pop my axles out ( loaner from the local O'Reilly Autoparts store), no heating, hammers and chisels or anything else. The slide hammer had a plate to fit on 2 of the wheel studs, 1 to 2 slides of the hammer, and their out.

 
That subject has been hashed to death. Like stated earlier. You can do the job yourself if you like. I can post up the service manual pages if you should choose to go in that direction. I love 9 inch Fords just because you can do the ring and pinion on a bench to set your clearances and don't have to lay under the car to do it like GM's. Let me know if you need the book.
I appreciate your offer but already have the complete Ford '71 manual

set. It will work out.

mike



Also not the beat this one to death, but I just used a Slide hammer to pop my axles out ( loaner from the local O'Reilly Autoparts store), no heating, hammers and chisels or anything else. The slide hammer had a plate to fit on 2 of the wheel studs, 1 to 2 slides of the hammer, and their out.
I also call these a slap hammer. We use them in surgery to remove

metal parts from patients for replacement. Seriously.

The Ford shop manual, page 15-02-02 axle removal, refers to this

as 'Tool-T50T-100-A'. Right on. Best advice I have received.

mike

 
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Go and find a mechanic who knows what he's doing, Their is a circus in town and they are missing a clown...

THEIR ARE NO FRIGGIN C- CLIPS IN A FORD NINE INCH. Full Stop...................................................................

The bloke is a total Drongo for telling you so, I very much doubt he could drive a greesy stick up a dead dingo's ass let alone install bearings and retainers onto an axle shaft....

The bearings are kept in place by retaining rings, which you need to heat [expand] before slidding on the axle shaft, easyest way to get them off is to hit them with a cold chisel [hard] once on oppisite sides, [lenght ways the same as the axle, if that makes sense] normally they come off, some time you need to apply a little heat with a oxy welding tip, you do not need to use a cutting tip, too much heat....
+1-- Right on !!:D your'e so called mechanic is lost, don't let him work on your car. :mad: He is blowing smoke up your A$$. If you take the advise you have been given here, you could do the job yourself. It's not difficult, even if you have never changed out a 3rd member before. Just beware of the weight, it is heavier than you think !! I found that out the first time I had mine out!:blush: Much more knowledge here about our cars than many mechanics know.
Page 15-03-03 1971 Ford shop manual.

The Defense rests.

HPIM3205.JPG

 
Do you torch a hole in the back of the housing first,or to you take the axles out first to take the carrier housing out so you can then get to the c clips to then take out the axles after you already have the third member on the bench??????:D That can't can be for a factory 9 inch :huh: C

 
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