Denting Headers *PROBLEM SOLVED*

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BigPinoyHunk

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well i changed heads from STD to SCJ flange and now i changed headers. i am having problems getting them in cuz they are hitting all over the place and nothing is lining up. i can get all the bolts in place but can't really make them all tight.

i think i'll have to dent the header tubes at certain places to make them align to the right spot.

the only other options would be to go to hooker and use a 6115 or 6201. the 6115 are 1 7/8 but don't quite fit the SCJ-A port and mine are ported. the 6201 will fit fine and have room for improvement but you'll have to cut a hole in the fender well and that'll cause problems with heating up fuel lines and starter wires once it goes thru fenderwell.

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I'd call Maddog before commencing whackin' on 'em.

Man, that's depressing. They are one of the header mfg's that I was considering. Kinda figured (hoped) the history with Doug's and being a small shop, that there would be no issues.

I have not heard of anybody having proper whack-free fitment of any commercially produced header on a big block in our cars, regardless of combo. :s

Good luck.

 
I'd call Maddog before commencing whackin' on 'em.

Man, that's depressing. They are one of the header mfg's that I was considering. Kinda figured (hoped) the history with Doug's and being a small shop, that there would be no issues.

I have not heard of anybody having proper whack-free fitment of any commercially produced header on a big block in our cars, regardless of combo. :s

Good luck.
i had crites back in 2002 that was no whack job headers. back then it was mad dog who made them but he said he didn't like them and didn't keep the design.

FPA makes them and he has a mid length small tube one. hes done a test on a 521 600hp motor and only lost 4hp and gained 12tq with them versus 2 1/8 super comp headers. they will probably be fine up to that HP and that'll probably be the limit but i'm looking for more than my 626hp after a season. just changing my intake will match the tq which is 651.

i might as well just cut that hole in the fender well and reroute my battery and fuel ines and use the super comp 6201.


i called him yesterday and he said to go ahead and whack them so he can modify them but i had to completely smash #2 and when it ended up bending at the end when it fit so it is a useless tube.

i put the front tires on ramps so the suspension will sit as if the car was on the ground. #3 hits with suspension on the ramps but will fit with the whels hanging.

 
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alright guys i got off of the phone with Mark at mad dog and i explained the issue with the headers. we first discussed that we need alot of pictures to determine how to reroute the headers. then i kept on telling him that i wished he had the ability to still make the headers he made for crites. he said he threw away the jig cuz he didn't like them.

i get a call back 2 minutes later and he said he still might have the jig to build them. he said what he ended up throwing away were the headers for the 67-70 headers. so now he might have the ability to remake what he made for crites. i use to have these headers but i sold them (like a fool) so i know they work without a hiccup.

hes going to call me back in an hour or so and tell me if he does. i called crites this morning and they said they have a 6 week build time on headers which is ridiculous so hopefully he is an alternative to crites poor customer service.

 
ISSUE RESOLVED!!

Alright guys, this afternoon we found out completely what was going on. he made a big mix up between a 67-70 mustang and 71-73 mustang 460 swap headers. so what i have in my garage right now is a 67-70 mustang headers and explains why the tubes are super hitting the frame.

he has located the jig that he made for crites and is making me the new headers instead of waiting for Crites 6 week waiting window.

i will have to inform him that Crites is selling the headers for cheaper though.

 
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::thumb:: I'll be waiting for the pics!

 
ISSUE RESOLVED!!

Alright guys, this afternoon we found out completely what was going on. he made a big mix up between a 67-70 mustang and 71-73 mustang 460 swap headers. so what i have in my garage right now is a 67-70 mustang headers and explains why the tubes are super hitting the frame.

he has located the jig that he made for crites and is making me the new headers instead of waiting for Crites 6 week waiting window.

i will have to inform him that Crites is selling the headers for cheaper though.
I'm glad you found the problem but that is a big mix up to say the least! Sounds like he is trying to do the right thing.

 
ISSUE RESOLVED!!

Alright guys, this afternoon we found out completely what was going on. he made a big mix up between a 67-70 mustang and 71-73 mustang 460 swap headers. so what i have in my garage right now is a 67-70 mustang headers and explains why the tubes are super hitting the frame.

he has located the jig that he made for crites and is making me the new headers instead of waiting for Crites 6 week waiting window.

i will have to inform him that Crites is selling the headers for cheaper though.
I'm glad you found the problem but that is a big mix up to say the least! Sounds like he is trying to do the right thing.
he is cuz i know that some of you are also wanting to buy from him and he knows one angry customer spreads in the internet.

i would of gone thru FPA again and hes proven that his headers only lose about 4hp but gain 12tq on a 600hp 521 applications. however i plan on going in the 700's in the next year or go. so it doesn't make sense to settle for 1.75 now when i can start with 2 inch tubes now.

 
ok the new headers are on their way. will do a test fit and then paint and reinstall. after that, i'm going to try to rip up the town.

 
it took 8 days to get them but they got here yesterday. i test fitted them and i was able to get them to fit in. the cross under tube for number 4 and 8 were a little tricky but i got them in. i need to drop them and paint them.

i will say this, THEY ARE 300 TIMES BETTER QUALITY HEADERS THAN CRITES RESTORATION!!! they are much thicker material.

however since i have a road race fat pan, one of the tubes is just about touching my oil pan drain plug. i will need to take to exhaust shop and let them heat up the tube and let them dent it if they can. i'll get another drain plug and cut the inside of it some and shave some of the outter part and hopefully i can get it out. if not, there is another plug thats 1 inch higher than that plug but i'll have another qrt or two left in the pan. i can tilt car some to get more out and maybe use a pump to get out as much as i can.

you will not have this problem if you use a stock pan. most deeper sump pans as just deeper and not fatter. mine just is stock depth but is fatter which is creating the problem. however on other pans, they have the plug in the front which would of been nicer.

guys, the mad dog part number is 4004 and again, they are 300 times better than crites restoration headers. they are a good alternative to hooker headers where you need to cut a hole in the fender well.

i will post pics once fully installed.

 
Always nice to hear good news ::thumb::!

 
Always nice to hear good news ::thumb::!
tomorrow should be the great news! i removed headers today, cleaned them up with a little solvent and brake cleaner. wiped them up and put a coating of high temp gray paint.

tomorrow i will RTV the flanges and install the headers without a gasket. since these are individual tubes its tricky getting the collector on. but before fully tightening bolts, u want the rtv to somewhat dry.

i also need to weld in my header inserts into the reducers so its not as loud as open headers should be. will installed about 4 feet of 3 inch pipes into 12 inch race bullet mufflers with turn aways.

 
tomorrow i will RTV the flanges and install the headers without a gasket. since these are individual tubes its tricky getting the collector on. but before fully tightening bolts, u want the rtv to somewhat dry.
i also need to weld in my header inserts into the reducers so its not as loud as open headers should be. will installed about 4 feet of 3 inch pipes into 12 inch race bullet mufflers with turn aways.
Olie, I've seen cone inserts used in many drag race classes and they work! It lowers the dB's and looses virtually next to none hp. These are welded to the collectors.http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dtc-772-32510/overview/

Anyway it's gonna be one loud puppy!!! If you can live it with it then cool, but if not, I would recommend Dynomax Ultraflow's straight through desing with perforated tube and weld the dynomax racebullets to the end of the exhaust - it's gonna sound HEAVY but it cuts the irritating ear shredding high "noise" out of the sound. Few of my friends has done the similar exhaust up to 850 hp and the tone of exhaust tells you that there's a big mutha under the hood and as a bonus you can ride the thing without earmuffs. :D When you're aiming to 700ish hp the tone will affect some... Nice!

For the headers the hooker 6201 super comps with 2 1/8" primaries are whack free operation if you count out the hole to the inner fender they need on the passenger side. Con is the groundclearence, it was 3" with ol' sagged 351c coils. 4" groundclearence with 600lbs 1" lowering coils. With '67 Mustang 390 GT coils 6" groundclearence... I would have gone with mad dog headers if they would have them on their catalog. I agree with Olie, the quality of Mad dog headers is very good, friend of mine ordered headers for his 512 cid FE '68 Galaxie. Headers fits like a glow and the quality is better than in hookers.

 
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