Installation of 429/460 Hooker headers

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Oct 8, 2019
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Location
Missouri
My Car
1971 Mustang Convertible
1971 Mustang Mach I
1972 Mexican GT-351
1971 Mustang Convertible
1988 Bronco II
1970 Torino 4 door
I have done this before but it was nearly 40 yrs ago. These are 3 piece headers each side, rear two exhaust ports on each side are separate tubes that slip fit into the header collector area that also has the front two tubes/. I started on the passenger side, rear two tubes. I cannot get the rearmost tube installed. If anyone has done this please share what you remember. I know it is a PITA to install these but do I need to lift the engine? I already removed the charcoal canister and the a/c thing. These are the headers.....https://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/6201/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA04arBhAkEiwAuNOsIhZOt0Suy1NfGOXmz6FcQVIIDMAilxR1gdlSSTUkgevq-lx3V-iGCBoCUvgQAvD_BwE
 
I got these. Pita indeed. The trick is to use a wire/rope with the 2 cyl on the back almost in place and the rope at cyl 3 or 7. Insert the 2 front. Then it’s a dance about have the flanges starting to bolt and go underneath force the other to line up. Worst design ever.
 
I got these. Pita indeed. The trick is to use a wire/rope with the 2 cyl on the back almost in place and the rope at cyl 3 or 7. Insert the 2 front. Then it’s a dance about have the flanges starting to bolt and go underneath force the other to line up. Worst design ever.
I can't even get the rearmost passenger side close to bolting to the head even though no other tubes are in place yet. Next step will be to lift the engine. Were you able to snake in the tubes after the engine was bolted in place?
 
I got these. Pita indeed. The trick is to use a wire/rope with the 2 cyl on the back almost in place and the rope at cyl 3 or 7. Insert the 2 front. Then it’s a dance about have the flanges starting to bolt and go underneath force the other to line up. Worst design ever.
Even though I bought new the headers did not have directions. Found some online. I need to cut a hole in RH rear apron for that rearmost tube. I previously owned the smaller diameter Hooker headers and I do not recall carving the apron to get them to fit. I guess tomorrow will be carving time....not loving that idea but this is second set of headers and not getting a 3rd
 
yeah, i have run both sets as well. I put studs in several holes to hang pipes on, then repalced with bolts as needed. Really low clearence, equal length forces multi-piece, Hedman lists a simplified version, summit carries them but no feedback. Dont bother with gaskets, i put on a bead orange silicone and install after dry, no leak yet. I u can get the hooker directions they really help alot, test fit first, hits oil filter, if not coated yet U can cut and move front bottom tubes for t-sump oil pan sump clearance. or just run smaller version, not much power diff unless over 600H.P.
 
I remember using the smaller tube version on my 70 Torino Cobra. I don’t recall having a hard time installing them, but I do remember ground clearance being an issue. Scraped the ground many times. I really didn’t like the design. The front two tubes are like a mile long and the rear two tubes are short, really throws the equal length theory out the window. Also it sucks having to cut the rear apron for large tube version. Unfortunately, not much options available for these cars.
The headers on my current car were fabricated using existing headers. All tubes go rearward between the engine and shock towers. They were on the car when I bought it. I would say they did a great job because they don’t hit anything or rattle and I have had the car for 15 years. I hope in the future I can duplicate them.
 
You can install with engine in place. Just like for most headers, is to lift the car enough so you have the collector mid car from side, then while lifting the tubes try stay paralel to the block.
Problem with these is you need the tubes to insert in each other, so you need lets say 1 inch play to engage them. Hence why keep a rope on cyl 7 help till they are inserted. Then you can think of trying to bolt the flanges.
I recall on driver side no clearance issues.

I’m thinking of buying short headers for 460 and custom make the connection. Because they have 2 ‘free’ connections that are almost certain to leak, freakin the O2 sensor of the EFI… Got enough issues with that on my 351 with poorly build Hedmans and really do not plan go thru that again with the 429
 
I have a 71 / 460 C6 with hookers 6115 long tube. As Fabrice mentioned, you definitely want the car up in the air and install them from underneath. If you start a bolt in cyl 1 and 5 to hold the front two pairs in place it will help out greatly. You can then pivot them up as you install the rear two pipes on each side. You will need to sort of corkscrew the rear tubes to get them up in place. I have done mine 4 times now having the car up on ramps. I use a piece of 2 x 4 as a brace to hold them up once I get the rear tubes in place until I them bolted on. Watch your fenders, I dented mine in a couple of spots from laying over them while putting the headers on last time. Still kicking myself for it.
 
I ran these when I had the big block in my car. They were relatively easy to install, compared other cars/headers. I installed them with both front and rear of car on jack stands. As has been mentioned, ground clearance was a major issue for everyday street driving.
 
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I don't recall specifically, but try hanging the front section by the front bolt only while trying to assemble the two rear pipes. I pulled the starter out to give myself more wiggle room.

I don't want to scare you but mine leaked like crazy at the slip joints. I had to pull them back apart and rtv the shit out of the two rear pipes (on each side) to try and get them to seal....

EDIT: I think I have a different PN than you- I did not have to cut the car anywhere. I think mine are the PN 6115 versions.
 
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I installed a set of the 6115 non-CJ headers on a 66 Fairlane convertible I did for a guy back in '99. Those were an absolute PITA but at least I didn't have to cut into the fender apron. I think I had them in and out a half dozen times before they fit right and sealed up. RTVing the slip joints was a necessity. I way underbid the work I did, but stuck to my number.
 
I took the headers off my 72 mach1 429 ram air because they the front pipes went below the frame which caused me to be scared of speed bumps. I found a set of manifolds and put the system back to OE as much as possible.
If I had a somewhat mild build I would have found some manifolds. The engine is a 528-8V so it needs more than stock. This is my only somewhat radical motor.
 
If I had a somewhat mild build I would have found some manifolds. The engine is a 528-8V so it needs more than stock. This is my only somewhat radical motor.
Agreed cwalker, your 528 duel 4's engine does not rate as "somewhat mild" 😍
 
I took the headers off my 72 mach1 429 ram air because they the front pipes went below the frame which caused me to be scared of speed bumps. I found a set of manifolds and put the system back to OE as much as possible.
Agreed. I had them on a 71 and then 72 back in the 80's and they DID get beat up. Will need to be extra special careful. I had to make sure car was turned even coming out of the driveway because of the curb
 
Does anyone need a set of these headers 6115HKR. I have 2 sets. Both new. 1 set looks new, the other has been moved around. Scratches and surf rust. repaint them. I can get pics. I do not have original boxes. I put a set of these on a buds car back in the early 80's. No big deal. I was 20. They are aftermarket. Remember aftermarket "Nothing fits". Race car parts are the worst. $550 + ship (oversize) from 80102
 
This is when I took my headers off my 429cj 72 mach1
 

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