Did I screw up? Is there a lising rod behind the MACHI emblem??

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

NG8264723

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 11, 2016
Messages
314
Reaction score
18
Location
Harvard, Ma
My Car
1973 Mustang f code MACHI
Purchased in 1997 or so
If so I forgot to put one in.  I did not see a spot for it.  The seats look great but the back is a little puffy near the emblem.  Did I screw up!  Both backs are DONE!

 
there isn't a rod it is a plate it is larger then the emblems and sits flat behind them.

you can take the top covers back off and fix things in a few hours.

i had to do the same. when i put my seats together i didn't have the emblems.

about 5 years later a buggy gave me a set he cut out of another car.

the emblems have little feet that got melted behind the backing plate. like a hot rivet.

so i couldn't recreate that, so i cut the plates with a metal shear under the feet and bent the plate so i could pull it out from behind the melted feet of the emblems.

pushed the emblem through the newer seat covers put the plate back behind the feet and bent the plate flat , then i remember i took a soldering iron and silver solder and i tacked the plate cuts so they wouldn't open.

then i put seat top back together using new hog rings and hob ring pliers. took me an afternoon to do both seats.

also on some reproduction seats they forget to put the pockets for the rods. it is very hit and miss. if you are careful you can stitch a rod holder through the fiber backing on the seats.

 
I actually purchased new emblems. They arte now reproduced. When I put the seat togethere I used the listing rods on the side bolsters. I did not use one behind the emblem. I was just wondering if there was an area behind the meblem that was sucked back into the seat frame in a similar fashion to the bolsters

 
for the originals no they used plates.

i have no experience with the reproduction new ones just the originals. the seats are made to match originals so they wouldn't have anything around the emblem area.

just looked at the scott drakes.

i see they use push on clips and the metal backing plate is small compared to original. those push on clips would be hard to keep tight as well.

 
When I did mine, I used the Scott Drake pieces, and no - there wasn't a listing wire behind it anywhere to fasten to or anything.  All of the rod pockets were there as well.  I used TMI Products Sport Seats (with thicker bolsters & foam), and installation wasn't bad - just laborious and time-consuming (I think it took me a total of 3 days between all of the seats, plus another week or so [off & on] of tweaking the covers to get rid of the puckers, since my hands were shot from the initial install).

 
When I did mine, I used the Scott Drake pieces, and no - there wasn't a listing wire behind it anywhere to fasten to or anything.  All of the rod pockets were there as well.  I used TMI Products Sport Seats (with thicker bolsters & foam), and installation wasn't bad - just laborious and time-consuming (I think it took me a total of 3 days between all of the seats, plus another week or so [off & on] of tweaking the covers to get rid of the puckers, since my hands were shot from the initial install).
Eric, could you please post a picture so i can see how it looks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 
Here they are right after I finished up the fronts.

attachment.php


Still had to tweak and stretch them periodically over the next week or so to get them a little tighter.

Everything's since relaxed quite a bit, but the 'pooches' toward the top on each side of the "buttons" are still there somewhat - I've been too lazy to take the seats apart and re-fit the seat back covers.

Not the best picture, but even just a short time after being installed back into the car, you can see the seats have settled in a bit better than the above pic from on the bench.

attachment.php


 
Eric your bolsters are tighter than mine. When looking at your seats I see that they are very tight high up in the bolsters. The highest hog ring does pull the area tighter than mine at the emblem. But when it accomplished the more taunt emblem area it effected the top of the bolster and caused the three wrinkles. Mine does not have these winkles. I will post pics this weekend

 
Actually, I got the wrinkles because I didn't get the covers pulled down far enough (I forgot to use some of the thin plastic 'grocery' bags on the bolsters to help them slip on easier), and that was the 'pinch zone.'  The bolsters seem tighter because there's a ton more foam and material - they're not the 'stock/replacement' covers and foam.  TMI Products makes several different custom seat covers for our cars - these are the next level up covers and foam before getting into the crazier custom stuff.

The factory seats are flat as boards in comparison.  (in fact, this is the one I cut the latch mechanism from ;)  )

attachment.php


 
Does it make sense to lubricate with something.... maybe dielectric grease or similat

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
Grocery bags work well. So does plain unscented talc powder. You can use baby powder but you might have a slight baby smell for some time.

 
Exactly.  I read an article in Mustang Monthly (white TMI Sport Seat covers and foam on '71 seats) and used the grocery bag trick on the bottoms... I'd gotten the tops on and thought I had them tight enough when I realized I hadn't used the bags on them.

Consequently, you can't tell the bags are in there - they don't have any outlines in the vinyl or make any noise whatsoever (crinkles - like when you wad them up, or otherwise).  Plus, they also might act as a bit of a moisture barrier if you spill something... rather than just soak into the foam if it makes it through the vinyl.

The article mentioned using silicon spray lubricant or the grocery bags.  I didn't want the silicon spray residue everywhere, so I went with the bags.

 
Interesting. So you just place a bag over the bolster area? I am assuming you need the two sides of the bag so one side slides over the other side, right?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 
Yup.  Just lay it as flat as possible, slip the cover on, and the bag surfaces will slip against each other, just as you mentioned, allowing the cover to slide on 'better' than with no slipping agent at all.

Mustang Monthly suggested using that method or a silicon spray lube... but I wasn't cool with that idea (leaving the silicon "moisture" on the foam (probably would've been OK, but I prefer keeping the foam and the backside as dry as possible).

I used the bags on my bottom cushions, and forgot to slip them into the bolsters for the seat backs [until after I already had them on and more than halfway down onto the seat backs]... which, was a real struggle.

 
Back
Top