Full Global West suspension system?

[Omie01]

I am thinking about upgrading my front suspension to all Global West tubular control arms, adjustable struts, eccentric locks, and articulating spring saddles. I plan to use their 1/2" lower small block springs, and generally run a total package system. Do I need their bump steer kit also since the upper CA's have positive 3 caster? Is anybody running this system and care to comment on quality? I also plan on converting rear leaf spring bushings to their Del-A-Lum bushings. I am planning on building this car to a track style performance car. (Driving hard on back-roads) PS. I already have heavy duty sway bars and good shocks. Am I forgetting anything? And please don't recommend coil over systems, I know they are awesome, but they don't fit my budget. Especially the rear kit. I would really like to hear about any experiences using their products. Thanks!!

 

[Omie01]

Also, does anybody know if I can use my 15 by 7" rims/tires with these upper control arms??

 

[Totalled]

I have their upper and lower arms, strut rods, and del-a-lum spring bushings and shackles. I don't have a direct a-b comparison since my car had worn out stock suspension, and it was 2 years before I could drive it with the new stuff.

I had to go from a 15x8 wheel to a 15x7 wheel to the clear the front tire at the end of the upper a-arm.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-totalled-s-rebuild-thread?page=16

 

[Omie01]

Totalled: 2 questions, Do you have to drill new holes for the upper control arms? Also, which aluminum radiator do you have in your car? Where did you get it?

 

[Totalled]

Yes, global west has you drill new holes. They include a metal template.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-totalled-s-rebuild-thread?page=5

The radiator is a "Northern" brand from e-bay. It works but is not exactly a bolt in.

 

[Omie01]

So, do you just leave the old holes open, or do you have to weld the old holes closed. I could see the old holes maybe starting a crack? Under heavy loads??


OH!! And Thanks for all the info.

 

[Totalled]

Dunno. Left mine open.

 

[garrett7]

Hi omie, i was just wondering if you had calculated the cost of your planned suspension set up vs one of the kits that contains all the stock style parts. Id love to see the difference

 

[Omie01]

All In for the Global west set is going to be about $1800-$1900. The coil-over kits start at around $2300, and for stock stuff, if you play your cards right you can get everything for around $800. Last year I put in a whole stock set including Leaf springs and shackles and I think I paid around $800 for everything including hardware. My car does ride nice, but my next engine build plan will need better suspension. PS: Actually I forgot to figure in my sway bars, maybe another couple hundred for them.

 

[Omie01]

Ok, I took the leap, I bought a full Global West front suspension system, and their Del-A-lum bushing kit for rear leaf springs, and then found some roller bearing spring perches on Ebay. I am going to try to do a step by step write up with pics and try to write a performance review when she hits the road!! All said $1990 invested. Right now my car has an all brand new "Stock" front suspension so I can do an apples to apples comparison!!

 

[garrett7]

Looking forward to it!

 

[Omie01]

OK, as promised, I have a start to my Global west suspension system upgrade. Let me start by saying, First things first, I had my steering box re-geared to 3 turns lock to lock, I live near Cambridge, MN. where Lares Corp. is and just dropped it off, they went through it and re-geared it for $285.


This is everything I ordered, upper control arms, lower control arms, recommended springs, solid tie rod sleeves, and eccentric lockout kit.


NOTE: These are roller bearing spring saddles, Global West does not manufacture these right now, but claim they are going to in the near future. I bought these off Ebay for $200 for the pair, they seem to be high quality and worth the investment.


I forgot to mention the lower control arm struts, my first impression of everything is HEAVY DUTY!!


First step is to mount this template that comes with the upper control arms to move the holes down 1". Using a 3/16" dril bit, drill 2 pilot holes per the template.


Next step they say to use a step drill bit to open the holes to 9/16", the only problem with this is that the step drill bit does not go deep enough to drill all the way through the 3 layers at this point, I think I would rather use 3 different drill bits working your way up to 9/16". I had to drill from both sides to make a uniform 9/16" hole, but hey, that's why I am doing a play by play!! I think the 1971-1973 cars are the only mustangs to come from the factory with reinforcements in the shock towers to allow for the big blocks. The template is nice but it is not exact, I did have to clean up a bit with a carbide rotary tool to get the bolts to go in smooth. Just make sure to not get carried away as you want the UCA's to be snug in there place!


This is optional, and also where I stopped for now. I filled in the old holes using my portable MIG welder. I just can't see leaving the old holes in place as I don't want any possible crack points. I have seen cracked shock towers, and I'm sure there are a bunch of different reasons why it happens, but just to play it safe I filled the old holes in and ground them smooth. I blocked the back of the hole with a piece of copper and filled them 100%. I made sure to check for any hole distortion on the new holes and there wasn't any. I will mention, I used wet rags to cool the weld zone when I was done to save as much paint as possible. Now the project will have to wait a few days before I get back to it, but I will post more progress reports as I go. I hope this was informational for anybody looking to make these upgrades!!! Cheers!!

 

[jbojo]

Looks like a nice setup. I like those roller bearing saddles.

 

[Omie01]

Yes me too! Last year when I was installing the stock saddles I thought to myself "what a janky setup" seems very limiting to the suspension.


OH! I just remembered, I did have to weld little spring stop extensions to the perches because my new springs would not contact the spring toe properly. I added little 1" extensions off the toe stops.

 

[71_badmach]

Appreciate you posting this information! I was just considering ordering the upper arms. My recent acquisition has new stock lower arms, but needs replacement uppers. I didn't realize you had to drill new holes for the mounting of the upper arms.

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

 

[MeZapU]

I didn't think you needed to do the "Shelby drop" by drilling and lowering the upper control arms on 71-73 cars. Maybe these arms require it though.

After assembling/welding the DIY roller perch kit, I can endorse the outright purchase of the completed units. What a PITA it was. I would have much rather of spent the money and just bought them assembled if I knew what a hassle it would be.

 

[73mach1]

I didn't think you needed to do the "Shelby drop" by drilling and lowering the upper control arms on 71-73 cars. Maybe these arms require it though.

After assembling/welding the DIY roller perch kit, I can endorse the outright purchase of the completed units. What a PITA it was. I would have much rather of spent the money and just bought them assembled if I knew what a hassle it would be.

I hear you on the perch kit. Did the same thing ,feel the same way.

 

[Omie01]

Yeah, I saw the do it yourself kits myself and even being a welder/fabricator, I just opted to buy a complete set. On a side note, I am having troubles mounting the UCA's inside the shock tower, there is a small reinforcement tab welded on the back of the UCA arm to bushing area, its keeping the control arm from moving to full down position. Its a very small interference, I can probably grind a little material off and get it to clear, but I am waiting for a response from Global West before proceeding.

 

[Omie01]

Well, new update: I had to move the mounting holes for the UCA's up 1/2". These control arms are made for 1967-1973 Mustangs, and the extra bracket in our cars is supposedly not always in the same locations, so the 1 3/8" drop may not be correct for all of our cars. Global west told me to weld the holes closed and move the holes up 1/2" from the center of the drop hole, that the UCA's are supposed to sit in the bottom of the UCA relief wells as low as they will go without interference. Sounds like some of us will get lucky with the template position, but some of us won't!!:huh: