Having trouble removing brass restrictor plate

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4mm

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Location
S. TX
My Car
1971 Mustang 351C 4V Fastback
I need to remove the plate and it is not as easy as I thought. Any ideas on how to go about it without damaging it? Thanks in advance.

 
Maybe if you had some WD40 and let it soaking overnight it should work? Then punch it gently to remove it.

Un less there are a special manner to do it. I see mine is in plce since the beginning and with all the corrosion around don't know how to remove it. Anyway I let it in place for the next 40 years.

 
I need to remove the plate and it is not as easy as I thought. Any ideas on how to go about it without damaging it? Thanks in advance.
It's "press-fit." Press-fit is one-and-done. When it is removed, cannot be reliably reused, therefore, rip it the hell out 'cause it won't matter what it looks like unless you want to make a necklace out of it for your girl.

 
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As EBSTANG said this is a one use only item.

You could try fab'ing up something similar to a rear axle bearing puller and use a slide hammer to draw it out but with it being brass I would think it would deform to some degree.

 
I read I could freeze it with a coolant and it will shrink and I can pop it off?

 
Removed a lot of them and reused every one them just by using a bolt head hooking the side of the center hole and fender washer on top with 2 small screwdrivers to pry up with. Never ruined any because it didn't take much prying to remove

 
Why do you want to remove it?

Chuck
He's probably wanting to do the Pantera Mod and still preserve the part in case he ever wants to go back.

I'm pretty sure he won't be going back. :cool:

I also seem to remember seeing someone posting a source for replacements of the plates. I'm not sure if it was an actual vendor or an ebay sale. West Coast Classic Cougars has them listed, but out of stock.

 
Why do you want to remove it?

Chuck
Got the new closer tolerance plate from machinist along with the proper thermostat.

 
Why do you want to remove it?

Chuck
Got the new closer tolerance plate from machinist along with the proper thermostat.
k, then since you won't be needing it anymore, you don't have anything to loose by simply beating or yanking the crap out of it to remove it.

I read I could freeze it with a coolant and it will shrink and I can pop it off?
Sometimes but this involves some level of risk to the block since you may freeze this too so it's not something I would suggest, however, if you want to try it you can buy some cans of compressed air from a computer store or sometimes a hardware store will have them . One brand is called "Dust Off". Simply hold the can upside down as you try to spray into the hole and contine for around 30 seconds at which point it should be very frosty, then immediately try to pull it out.

 
I read I could freeze it with a coolant and it will shrink and I can pop it off?
Don't believe anything from those online forums...


I don't know what other people are reading (except Don) but I thought he clearly stated he..."Got the new closer tolerance plate from machinist along with the proper thermostat." So like Don said...you won't be needing the old brass washer again since you got a new brass washer. If that's the case, (Mister4x4 is misreading), rip it out and put the new "closer tolerance" brass washer/thermostat in. He never said anything about putting in the "Pantera Mod," solid, aluminum, bypass blocking, solid disc in...this is how people get confused on this subject. :shootself:

 
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.

Freezing the insert will in fact cause the insert to shrink slightly, plus freezing can fracture rust formations that form between a nut and a bolt etc which will make them easier to separate . I have been freezing bearings and heating aluminum motorcycle cases to make the bearings easier to install since 1976 because they can sometimes be too tight to safely press in without cracking the case if they are both at the same temp . This is a very common practice.

 
.

Freezing the insert will in fact cause the insert to shrink slightly, plus freezing can fracture rust formations that form between a nut and a bolt etc which will make them easier to separate . I have been freezing bearings and heating aluminum motorcycle cases to make the bearings easier to install since 1976 because they can sometimes be too tight to safely press in without cracking the case if they are both at the same temp . This is a very common practice.
Freezing a part for removal/installation is a great idea. In this case he has a replacement brass washer so a careful removal wouldn't seem necessary. Slap hammer mod to work with brass washer, screwdriver to deform and extract, sawzall, jackhammer...whatever, would get it done in 5 seconds. Pull the tooth and get on with the day! :D



And here I thought I was married to the ice queen.
Meet Mrs. EBSTANG...

Snow Miser.PNG

 
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Freezing the insert will in fact cause the insert to shrink slightly, plus freezing can fracture rust formations that form between a nut and a bolt etc which will make them easier to separate . I have been freezing bearings and heating aluminum motorcycle cases to make the bearings easier to install since 1976 because they can sometimes be too tight to safely press in without cracking the case if they are both at the same temp . This is a very common practice.
Freezing a part for removal/installation is a great idea. In this case he has a replacement brass washer so a careful removal wouldn't seem necessary. Slap hammer mod to work with brass washer, screwdriver to deform and extract, sawzall, jackhammer...whatever, would get it done in 5 seconds. Pull the tooth and get on with the day!

That was my initial thought too, although I did fail to mention the preferred tools of choice like you did.
hysterical.gif


then since you won't be needing it anymore, you don't have anything to loose by simply beating or yanking the crap out of it to remove it.
.

 
If that's the case, (Mister4x4 is misreading), rip it out and put the new "closer tolerance" brass washer/thermostat in. He never said anything about putting in the "Pantera Mod," solid, aluminum, bypass blocking, solid disc in...this is how people get confused on this subject. :shootself:
Ya know - I'm getting pretty tired of your snarky accusations... I didn't misread squat! I totally glossed right the Hell over it. So, fire me already. :p

Now that that's cleared up... :whistling:

lollerz

 
If that's the case, (Mister4x4 is misreading), rip it out and put the new "closer tolerance" brass washer/thermostat in. He never said anything about putting in the "Pantera Mod," solid, aluminum, bypass blocking, solid disc in...this is how people get confused on this subject. :shootself:
Ya know - I'm getting pretty tired of your snarky accusations... I didn't misread squat! I totally glossed right the Hell over it. So, fire me already. :p

Now that that's cleared up... :whistling:

lollerz
Eric (Mister4x4), I'm not sure what you're talking about...what did you read (if you didn't "misread") which would cause you to comment..."He's probably wanting to do the Pantera Mod and still preserve the part in case he ever wants to go back."

 


All I stated was that 4mm never mentioned anything about the "Pantera Mod" you brought up and that could cause the thread to get confusing for some others. You're comment seemed out of context, that's all. What the heck is "snarky" anyway?

I hope you were kidding especially since you most certainly shouldn't be throwing around accusations...(reread your PM's from 3/27) :chin: rofl

I know you're a "Super Mod" but chastising me for seeking clarity in the thread seems somewhat counterintuitive don't you think? Kinda Gestapo-ish...jeeez :-/

lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz lollerz



.

Freezing the insert will in fact cause the insert to shrink slightly, plus freezing can fracture rust formations that form between a nut and a bolt etc which will make them easier to separate . I have been freezing bearings and heating aluminum motorcycle cases to make the bearings easier to install since 1976 because they can sometimes be too tight to safely press in without cracking the case if they are both at the same temp . This is a very common practice.
Freezing a part for removal/installation is a great idea. In this case he has a replacement brass washer so a careful removal wouldn't seem necessary. Slap hammer mod to work with brass washer, screwdriver to deform and extract, sawzall, jackhammer...whatever, would get it done in 5 seconds. Pull the tooth and get on with the day!

That was my initial thought too, although I did fail to mention the preferred tools of choice like you did.
hysterical.gif


then since you won't be needing it anymore, you don't have anything to loose by simply beating or yanking the crap out of it to remove it.
.
:+1: Mr. Mike ::thumb::

 
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Dude, relax.

I read the part about him needing to pull the restrictor plate and assumed he was doing the same Pantera Mod that I did. I totally missed the "closer tolerance plate" comment because he posted at exactly the same time as I posted my comment about doing the Pantera Mod (go look again... I'll wait here... see what I mean?). ;)

Besides, there's nothing in this whole thread about him getting the plate and thermostat. You must've pulled that thought out of a different thread and transposed it to this one. :huh:

I was totally being a smart ass because you got me on the 'missing that critical part of the conversation' again. I was also just pulling your chain since you made such a big deal out of it. :whistling:

There's nothing going on - I was just having some fun. Sorry you didn't get it... I guess you totally 'glossed over' my smilies, eh? (that's me being snarky, BTW). LOL

We're good - carry on. :cool:

 
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