HF bits for port matching?

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72 Mach 1, Q code 351CJ, 4 speed.
IMO, you're better off getting a good set of carbide burrs. Those in the first link, I think, will be very disappointing.

After roughing with a carbide burr, use these for cleanup and smoothing. I think you'll be surprised at how much material these will remove:

http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-cone-set-52-pc-62394.html

For port matching, you may be able to get away with just the cones.

 
I would stay away from the rasps. The carbide burrs are aggressive enough......

 
Look up Buckeye Carbide burr bits. Look for the long shank bits. Turn the pressure operating the die grinder way down so you have reasonable control of the bit speed. Wear a good mask and eye protection, really. Chuck

 
I was a tool & die maker and tooling engineer all my working life so used an air grinder a lot. The first link you had for the Carbon Steel burrs tells me they will not last. They are plain steel that has be carbonized so they will not wear very good. The next step up would be HSS or High Speed Steel which is what most drill bits are made from. They do titanium coat some, that is the gold color, to help them wear better. The best would be the carbide burrs.

Now, If you have never used an air grinder never never go in a counter clockwise direction with a burr. It will grab and climb and get away from you.

We hardly ever used burrs we used grinding wheels. You can dress them to any shape with a carborundum stick and they cut pretty fast and do not grab like a burr. Go to the MSC Industrial Supply Co. web site and they carry about anything you might need. There is actually a store in Greenville, S. C. I think.

If you turn the air pressure down you loose control in my opinion. It is a combination of tool, feel and experience that will get the job done. I would use a junk head to start with.

The cleveland heads do not need lots of porting, maybe exhaust but intakes too big already for bottom end power. When NASCAR ran carbs they found, on the dyno, that if you left the cutter marks from the CNC porting they do that it caused the fuel air to mix better than if smooth and gave more power. Exhaust smooth is better. Take a look at Extrude Honing the ports. As the material is forced through the passages it naturally takes away areas that obstruct. This is just one of many suppliers out there not necessarily a suggested vendor. http://boneheadperformance.com/extrude-honing/

BMW use to do their M series heads and ports this way.

I am sure you know as a rule of thumb that inside corners in heads or runners should be larger radius and outside corners that are sharp should be made larger. But that being said you also do want the area to go from say 10 sq. in. down to 9 and back to 10. I am no expert on ports so go search the net for info for your engine. Some people spend years on a flow bench with clay modeling the ports and runners finding the best possible shape and size. Port matching is for sure a good thing to get rid of the obstructions. You will find out quick it is a dirty job unless you have an air bench to pull the cast iron away. Wear a breathing mask, ear plugs or muffs and glasses for sure. A full flip down shield is a good idea. I have this constant ringing in my ears from years of the noise in the shop.

 
Your question asked about port matching...but in case you are you going to port a set of D0VE heads, I recommend you check out the porting guide here: http://www.r-h-p.biz/ This guy has done a bunch of flow bench work and figured out how to get great flow numbers out of 385 heads. If you want access to the entire guide, he charges a one time fee of about $30.

If you're doing cleveland heads, here's a good article on the basics: http://www.351c.net/archive/tech/tech-articles-by-forum-members/articles-by-george-pence/classic-porting-4v-heads/

 
Has anyone used these for smoothing, polishing and port matching? Seem much cheaper for the home hobbyist than porting kits even if they do wear faster.
I have this cutter that I used to work the heads on my '64 and '68 Corvette's nearly 30 years ago. It a proper, US made, carbide cutter that I borrowed from my place of employ (a major oil refinery's machine shop) then was transferred and never got it back. It cuts very well. I am more than happy to send it to for your use to help get your heads done. When complete, just send it back. Let me know if you are interested, PM your mail details and I will get it out to you.





 

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