4Vforever
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2014
- Messages
- 473
- Reaction score
- 13
- Location
- Australia
- My Car
- 1973 Q code, C6 auto, 3.25 traction lock,
gold glow, ginger interior, A/C, pwr/steer/windows/disc brakes, etc
Well it's all part of the equation with the driveline upgrades and as such. But it was running a C4 built by Bob Grant Automatics in Brisbane (one of the best transmission builders in the world) convertor was done The Convertor Shop in Brisbane (again very highly reputable) that would've been around the 4000-4500+ stall speed. Tail shaft was built by Driveline Services in Brisbane a 3.5-4 inch diameter thick wall piece. The exhaust on this thing was like a work of art, done by Gonzo's. From memory they were 2 inch primaries into merge collectors, that ran into 3 inch twin pipes into the crossover into his own built mufflers into dual 3 inch tailpipes that had spirals running through the pipes. The rear end was the trusty old 9 inch with tru trac with (I think) 4.11's. As for brakes it just ran the standard Aussie 4 wheel disc brake set up I'm pretty sure. As Luke stated about grout filling the block with Hard Block to the bottom of the welsh/freeze plugs and we would also use 302 Boss screw in type plugs.
With your port plate dilemma we used a product called Silver Seal, (sorry I can't remember who makes it) and we would "glue" up each port plate to the exhaust gasket face and a bit under each plate in the port and clamp it to the head. When dried, if there was any excess in the port above the plate we'd just trim it off, heard of some guys welding them in, but we never had dramas using that product, as it was designed for extreme temperatures. We also used it on the intake ports and have also used liquid metal under the tongues and then screwed them in from the underside of port and used loctite on the grub screws that held them in place, so they obviously wouldn't come out and drop into the valley, so you wouldn't have an unhappy day.
With your engine I can no reason why you couldn't run in the 13's easily, possibly a high 12 (depending on your drivetrain) If you want to get into the 12's easily, give it a 100 shot of N2o, lol. If you think 11's was alright for back then, I worked for a guy back then that was running mid 9's in a full weight XY falcon with c/c 4V heads naturally aspirated, but on methanol. It was registered, but a street car it certainly was not. Let's just say, plenty of people had heard about this thing, and the rumours got out about it having lexan windows, fibreglass panels, big tubs, etc, etc. At the Winternationals 2002 well let's just say, plenty of people (especially southerners) were proved wrong after seeing the car and seeing that it was basically a factory built Falcon with a full cage and a monster Clevo, we just stood back and laughed at all the people looking over every inch of the car, then shaking their heads as they realised that it was as I said, a factory built Falcon with a full cage and monster Clevo. That is just one of many stories from over the years I was machining and building engines, that I let action speak louder than words. Nothing used to satisfy me more than some toss pot know all know F'all (usually with more dollars than sense) raving on about how their car was greatest thing ever built and how fast it was, and when one of our cars would kick it's ***, by, like a quarter of the track, and all the BS excuses would come out, like it wasn't running properly or this happened or that happened. So we'd say something like, get it running right and we'll go again. Funny thing was, not too many would give a definitive answer, and when you'd see them again, more excuses would keep coming up when you asked for that re-run,lol. Anyway all the best on your ventures with your car and I hope you get the times you're looking for.
