Power Mirror Tutorial by Austin Vert - Parts 1 to 4


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Hi to all and welcome to my first power mirror tutorial, one in ten. In this first tutorial i will be dealing with getting started for the whole project ahead. As i said in my initial post, the work involved in carrying out this project needs to be precise,and accurate as possible, to achieve a good finished product that performs in all departments.YOU WILL NEED TO STICK WITH MY PLANS IN DETAIL TO BRING THIS OFF. If for whatever reason you decide to deviate from what i have done in any way, then any potential problems that may occur,because of that, will be your problems to sort out yourself. On the other hand, if you find that i have made a mistake with any aspect of my plans that i have presented to you, then i will humbly apologize, and do my level best to help rectify that problem for you. If you approach the project with patience, enthusiasm,and care, then you should get the payoff at the end to enjoy the mirrors for yourself. It also must be said that please, always use and wear safety gear and work with safe practice when your on the job. It's your health and your responsibility.As we go through the tutorials step by step, you will see that i have laid it all out to approach the whole thing in a step by step progressive order.Follow this progressive order, and the project should fall into place quite well for you.I forgot to mention also in my introduction post, that there was a gentlemen in America, Robin, that had made up a power mirror setup for himself for his '69 Mustang driver's and passenger's doors. I managed to touch base with him many months ago, and we exchanged some working ideas between ourselves. I pay credit to him here as he gave me some good basic advice on what he had done,and i found it of good help to me when i sat down and designed my own power mirror system for the '71 - '73 Mustangs. I do thank him for his help and input. So moving on, let's look at what we have here.


OK, you own a '71-'73 Mustang.You may or may not have sports mirrors on your ride. If you do, you may have either reproduction mirrors or original Ford factory mirrors installed. With my invention, one of the biggest concerns i had, was not to damage your car or my car, by installing my power mirrors.THAT WAS VERY IMPORTANT TO ME. The reasoning is, that some time in the future, you may want to get rid of the power mirrors, and go back to how your car was before you did the install.It's good to know that you have the option of doing this, and not have to go out and buy new replacement parts that you destroyed in putting my system in.That's smart - that gives you options.The only exception would be cutting out holes in the doors and A pillars for the rubber bellows. However, you can come back later and put in rubber blanking grommets if you choose when you take out my system. However, the bottom line i say, without any doubt, is to go out and purchase a set of new, reproduction sports mirrors, left and right,for your 1971-1973 Mustang mirror project. Why? There are two main reasons why. The first is that if you have existing sports mirrors installed in your car, the drivers side mirror cables that control the adjustment angles, will need to be cut. I don't know of any way to disassemble the cables, and remove them from the mirror body without any damage done. If i am wrong here, do let me know. As far as i know, when you cut the cables, that's it, there's no going back. Secondly, on the passenger's side mirror, the internal metal mounting block located on the floor of the mirror housing, that holds the existing mirror backup plate and glass in position, has to be grinded out and removed completely, so my new mounting mechanism can be installed. Again, once done, there can be no turning back to reusing and reinstalling your original mirror backup and glass.With my system you have the option of using your existing original, factory Ford Mustang sports mirrors for the project. I SAY DON'T USE THEM. Remove them, and save them for a rainy day. Some folk may say, i don't care about permanently damaging my original Ford sports mirrors. That may be so, but if you want to remove my power mirrors, and go back to what you had before, then you will need to go out and buy new repro ones.They are not cheap to buy. Even if you have existing repro sports mirrors installed on your car,like i do, i would still say go out and buy another pair of repro mirrors again. I did,and that gave me options for the future.I will be storing my existing repro mirrors away in case i want to go back to manual mirrors, or if a future buyer of my car wants manual mirrors only, then there will be no problems.One last thing here.If you don't have any sports mirrors installed on your Mustang at all, then on your driver's door card, there should be no cut out hole on the card, where the chrome toggle lever is located. Believe it or not, this was the case on my '73 Convertible when i first bought it back in 2011. If this is you also, then think hard about installing my power mirrors, as you will need to make a hole or make use of a hole, 1 inch or 25mm in diameter where the existing manual sports mirror adjustment toggle lever is located. On the back of my original Ford factory drivers door card, there was an original stencil mark out line on the cardboard. It was a circle mark with a 25mm / 1 inch diameter mark out. That dia measurement represents the correct size hole for installing the toggle lever mechanism for the manual adjust setup. So, if you cut out that hole in your door card,you have then put a hole in your door card that wasn't there before. Buying another door card later on would be your only option if you wanted to go back to what you had before.So that exception aside,there IS only one way to go here, and that's to buy a set of reproduction sports mirrors for the project. JUST DO IT! IT WILL BE MONEY VERY WELL SPENT. I think enough said there.

Another option i want to talk about is if you want to commit to or push ahead doing the project in earnest, then you will need to get hold of my important detailed drawings of the project. The drawings give you all the details to reproduce various components of the system for yourself. I found that the easiest way for you to reproduce these parts, would be for you to use templates provided by myself. That said, my detailed drawings can be used by you in two ways. When you get them from me via Email, you will be able to print them out using A4 size paper. Print two copies of my plans.One copy will be for using my measurements as verification and a reference guide, and the second copy, you should be able to use for cutting out templates only.All my drawings are produced in real life size,on A4 paper, with a scale of 1 to 1. I discovered that if i send you an Email with the plans as PDF attachments, you should be able to print out those plans to a real life size the same as what i drew them. You can grab a good ruler and check or verify that the measurements i have provided, match accurately up with what you have on the drawings. That is important.I tested this out myself, and the drawings i sent back to myself via Email were spot on with my originals. Sending the plans via Email seems to work well. I can't post them up on the Forum, as they will not end up being presented in real life size for you to make proper use of. So the idea is then, if you want my plans, then you can Email me through my Forum connection, and i will send them on to you with a reply Email. If you find that when you print out my plans, the sizing is not accurate, then let me know, and i will post the plans to an address of your choosing using the normal mailing system.TIP. When you print out the plans, try to use a thickest plain white paper as possible. The thicker the paper, the easier it will be to draw with when you are doing your stencil template markups. Also, if you find that the drawings i sent you are not accurate,then look around at your printer settings, and make sure you are printing out at 100% size, not reduced or increased on your A4 paper. Also, print out one plan first and check to see if my measurements are the same as what your ruler is saying.So before you take on, or get started on the project, have a good think about your options and which way you would want to end up going. Also, because Forum members live around the world, my measurements and specs are provided in metric and imperial for your benefit. Also, my advice to you would be that before you contact me for getting hold of my plans, be patient, and wait till you read a couple of my ongoing tutorials first. Then you will get a better idea if you want to commit to doing the project or not. That idea makes good sense to me.

Lastly, you will have another option to do with the passengers side mirror. In the case of the original factory and repro passengers mirror glass,they are both shorter in width than the drivers side glass, by approx 1/4 inch or 6mm. The mirror heights are the same.If you choose to buy the convex mirror glass for the passengers side, it will fit perfectly onto the existing shorter mirror back up plate, that came with the repro Mirrors. However, you will be buying new mirror glass for this project for both sides, and so, you have the choice of making the passengers side glass the same size as the drivers side, or, shorter, as per the original Ford factory design.In that sense, it comes down to whether you want convex glass for the passengers side or not.In my case, i chose not to use convex glass for the passengers side, but the same size glass as the drivers side.If you choose the convex glass, you will be making the shape of the mirror glass back up plate a smaller size than the drivers side back up plate width wise.After test driving my car around the streets, i really like the wider plain mirror glass which as i said, is the same size as the drivers glass. I get better vision from it than the convex glass gave me, would you believe. Why Ford, decided to put a less wider glass in their passengers side 1,2,3 Mustangs, i don't know.


Thank goodness there were not too many.I only had two or three not so good setbacks.The first involved the mirror motors.In regards selecting parts for the project, i didn't want to get into using second hand or used older parts. My initial research led me to trying out Ford Thunderbird power motors from a 1994 T Bird. They turned out to be ideal for what i was trying to achieve. I was aware that there were at least two American companies that made new repro '94 T Bird complete replacement mirrors assemblies.I ordered a pair, had them shipped to Australia,but very sadly discovered that the motors in the repros were different to the original Ford factory ones. They were too big for the 1,2,3 housings.That was a major setback, as i was hoping very much to make use of them instead of the older used '94 ORIGINAL product. As i said before, i did not have the money or luxury of experimenting with different types of motors for trying to get a good fit up, and so, i decided to run with using the original '94 T Bird motors. Ringing up companies and doing research on the Net, bought very limited results as well. Dealing with people and companies proved difficult, as they didn't or couldn't give me any specs on the mirror motors i was thinking of trying. Also, i was warned that there might be a possibility of the size of the T Bird/Cougar motors varying slightly in size between the years between 1989 to 1997. That said, my advice would be to try your hardest to buy '93/'94/'95 vintage T Bird assemblies, 1994 being your first and best option target. The other setback i encountered was to do with the choice of power mirror switch, in relation to the left/right mirror action.I chose to use a 2005 / 2009 Mustang mirror switch. My research showed me that this switch should have been ideal for my purposes. The original 1994 T Bird switch was not suitable for my use, as it was the wrong shape and size,(triangular) and would not have looked very good when placed on the door card.(too cheap and nasty looking, and out of character with the 123's.) I worked with a pro auto electrician on this project, and after spending many hours and lots of money trying to solve this problem, we ran into a brick wall,and out of options and gave up. What happens is when you push the mirror angle control knob to the right for the mirror to turn to the right, it goes left instead. When you push the mirror switch to go to the left the mirror glass goes to the right. It's like a reversed action to what it should be.. Up and down works as normal. Control knob up,you get up, control knob down, you get down.I feel the problem here lies in the newer Ford factory 2005-09 switch having probs talking to the '94 T Bird mirror motors properly.Oh well, i guess i can live with that.They say you can't win them all.

Lastly, i want to make comment on mirror body sizes. I own a 1973 Mach 1, and to the best of my knowledge, the sports mirrors that are on the car are original. With my research, i bought a set of so called 1,2,3 original Mustang sports mirror housings or bodies, left and right off E bay... These were supposed to be original Ford '71 - '73 housings, yet the funny thing is that these so called original Ford housings i bought on E bay,are slightly smaller around the front mouth face than my Mach 1 original factory mirrors, which come in at the same size as my newly purchased repro mirror bodies. So, if you are hell bent on using your original mirror housings for this project, i would again say NO, as you may find that my mirror backup plates won't fit in, or will be slightly too big for the original housings to function properly. (that's top and bottom of both mirror backup plates.) I don't think that's a gamble you would want to take. Why that turned out for me that way, i really don't know, but i would say again, don't gamble with using your original Ford bodies. If you are still hell bent on using them however, then do a comparison test with your vernier ruler, using my drawings and measurements provided as a guide. You will see i have given you accurate measurements of the repro mouths, and when you take measurements of your own original mirror mouths, they should be the same. If you find that your original mirror mouths are smaller than the repro ones are, then DON'T use them for the project, as they are not suitable. I have provided some mirror body and backup plates drawings below. Use these drawings for measurement references only. If you look at the top of page 3 of the mirror mouth drawings, you will see a quick ready reference comparison chart, showing you the different sizes of the three different mirror body mouths.

In my next Tutorial, i talk about gearing up and tooling up for the project, and having everything ready to go.It will be time to start spending some money!


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Many thanks,





Welcome to my second tutorial. So moving on, if you're keen to start the project, and you've got the plans from me, then the next move is to start prepping up by doing some shopping and tooling up for the job ahead.But i will warn you again,before you start spending any money on parts, materials or tooling up, i think it would pay you to be patient and wait till you read more of my tutorials ahead to see what's involved in the project, and whether you want to take on or commit to the project for yourself. If you are at this stage,confident, focused and happy to dig in then this is where we start. Let's look at shopping first. You will see below, that i have provided a list of items for you to buy. To help you out and try to make life simple for you, i have provided contact links of where i or you would end up buying the parts or materials from.Hopefully, these contacts will be of good help to you.By going with my contacts, you will also be doing your best to faithfully stick to my design as close as possible, and end up getting the same results as i did with looks and performance. So...................LET'S GO SHOPPING.


Ford Thunderbird Original factory 1994 power mirror complete assemblies - buy TWO DRIVERS SIDE complete setups as passengers side contains the wrong parts for the project. TIP: From 1989 to 1997 T Bird and Cougar assemblies are supposed to be the same. Be careful and only try and buy 1994 assemblies, as other year mirror motors may be larger in size. (E bay buying is your best bet here or though your local wrecker may stock them as well) TIP: When buying these assemblies, try your best to select the best quality condition stock available for sale. Avoid the cheap and rough ones for sale. In this case it will pay you to try and buy the best stock, as you want reliability from the motors mainly. The seller should tell you that the motors are in good working order as part of the add or sale. On the flip side of that, it would not be wise to pay out for assemblies that are very over inflated in the asking price.So try and buy the best ones for the fairest asking prices.


1971-1973 Repro sports mirrors complete assemblies for both sides of your car.TIP: Look for the letters CAS stamped on the underside of both pedistal mounting bases.That's an assurance of the product is a quality one.

REFERENCE: Any American '71-'73 Mustang repro parts supplier.(you choose)

2005-2009 Ford OEM power mirror switch. TIP: Both OEM and repro will do the same job, but i like the OEM version better.



2005 - 2009 Ford OEM pigtail wiring plug for connecting to the Ford mirror switch. TIP: Sadly the pigtail comes with all green colored wires, but that won't be an issue with my wiring diagram to help out.


Burco mirror glass model. 2124 TIP: Buy two glasses if you want to use this mirror glass for the passengers side as well. If you want convex glass for the passengers side glass, then only order one Burco 2124 glass. (You can also buy from Burco themselves - these mirrors are a top quality buy)

REFERENCE: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1977-FORD-MAVERICK-MUSTANG-RIGHT-PASSENGER-SIDE-BURCO-MIRROR-GLASS-2124-/291436173341

Artistry chrome switch selector knob plus circular bezel. TIP: Buying these two products is an option, as the kit dresses up the look of the power mirror switch.A nice finishing touch.

REFERENCE: http://www.cjponyparts.com/power-mirror-switch-2005-2009/p/HW2538/


Convex glass for passengers side mirror assembly. TIP: This glass is an option for you if you want a convex mirror for your passengers side (Remember, the convex glass is not as wide as the drivers side mirror glass).

REFERENCE: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=3286

Connector plugs and wiring for wiring up the project: TIP: You should be able to find a local auto parts supplier for your cable and connectors and fuse - i gave the Aussie links here mainly as an example reference)



1979-1993 Door to pillar bellows x two TIP: Not exactly the same size as the factory Mustang 123 door rubbers, but almost the same, and can be used as a great replacement.


Chrome mirror mounting cover for mirror switch. TIP: I found this product to be of very good size and quality looking for the project.Good chrome. Worth the trouble of getting hold of.


All steel and aluminium products for the project. TIP: You may find a dealer close to where you live who can supply the sizes and profiles that i will be using in my project - great - but here is a good American supplier who has what you need.

REFERENCE: https://www.metalsdepot.com/products/alum2.phtml?page=plate&LimAcc=%20&aident=

My apologies folks, as i cannot get some of the above links to work for me. It might be a security issue - i don't know. In any event, if you read what the dead link says, you can use that info as a guide to locking in and finding the website you will be needing. Very sorry about that - Greg.:chin:


Aluminium flatbar - sizes 50mm / 2 inch wide x 3mm / 1/8 thick x 1mtr / 3 ft long & 22mm / 7/8 inch wide x 1.8mm / 1/16 inch thick x 1mtr / 3 ft long.

Galvanized steel flatbar - sizes 50mm / 2 inch wide x 5mm / 3/16inch thick x 500mm / 1 1/2 feet long & 50mm / 2 inch wide x 3mm / 1/8 inch thick x 1 mtr / 3 feet long

Aluminium flatsheet - sizes 300mm / 1 ft wide x 240mm / 9 1/2 inches long x 5mm / 3/16 thick & 300mm wide x 240 long x 3mm / 2/16 thick & 300mm wide x 240mm long x 2mm / 1/16 thick

One length of American red oak or Tasmainian oak(must me a hardwood species, not softwood)- size 90mm / 3 9/16 wide x 19mm / 3/4 inch thick x 500mm / 1 1/2 feet long.

Bolts and nuts (high tensile preferred) - sizes M5 / 3/16 X 30MM / 1 1/8inch long (1 pkt) & M5 / 3/16 x 20mm / 3/4 inch long (1 pkt)

Flat washers - sizes M5 / 3/16inch (1 pkt) & Machine washers M5 / 3/16 inch (1 pkt)

Elecrical wiring or cable for the project - Guage.3mm / 1/8 Long.7 meters / 21feet Colors.Blue, yellow, red. ........ Gauge: 4mm / 3/16 Long: 7 meters / 21 feet Colors: black, brown(or pink or purple)

Electrical terminals - Bullet type(Ford style connector) Insulated male and female connectors. Size: 3mm / 1/8 inch terminals.Quantity: Male 30 Female:30 Size: 4mm / 3/16inch Quantity: 30male 30female.

Elecrical fuse - (To be announced)

Loctite 5 minute Araldite epoxy glue (140 lbs breaking pressure) TIP: Please, please try and buy and use this stuff - it is just a fantastic glue that will meet all your glueing requirements for this project perfectly.

Sandpaper - types 80 grit dry, 240 wet & dry, 800 wet & dry, 1200 wet & dry, 40grit dry for machine sanding.

Paints - 2pack primer 500ml / 1/2 pint, 2 pack primer hardener 250ml / 1/4 pint, base coat color(your car) 500ml / 1/2 pint,2 pack clear coat 500ml / 1/2 pint, 2 pack clear hardener 500ml / 1/2 pint, 2 pack reducer 1 litre / 1 pint, 2 pack solid color for switch backup plate(optional), Acrylic lacquer clear in a mat finish 500 ml / 1/2 pint, walnut wood stain for switch backup plate (optional)

Masking tape - sizes 2 inch roll & 3/4 inch roll. Buffing compound for polishing mirror bodies.


Marker pens, permanent small and fine,black medium ball biro,steel square, small steel ruler, hacksaw with 18 tooth steel blade,electric jigsaw with metal cutting blade(3 to 6 mm thick),vernier gauge, sliding beval,electric/battery drill,full range of metric/ imperial steel twist drill bits (1/2 mm / 1/16 rises), bench grinder (should be set up with a face or belt sanding attachment, plus a wire wheel and/or grinding stone is needed as well), Flat metal bastard file, rat tail file, flat wood worker's rasp file,wood worker's vice, engineer's steel vice,club or claw hammer,Open end spanner set in metric or imperial, Socket set with long throat sockets in metric or imperial,Tap & die set in metric or imperial ( sizes needed will be 5mm / 3/16 inch & 3mm / 1/8 inch), center drift punch, G clamps & F clamps of various sizes, Dremel tool with cut off wheel,compressor, sprayguns for primer, clearcoat and basecoat ( two guns needed), scissors(sharp), scalpel tip knife, full screw driver's set, wood worker's circle cutter, air or electric die grinder with steel rasping bit, multi grips (large size), rubbing block, wire cutters/strippers crimpers ,bench drill press, Steel cut hole saws - sizes needed 70mm / 2 3/4 inches, 65mm / 2 9/16 inches, 44mm / 1 3/4 inches,35mm / 1 3/8 inches,(ALWAYS use cutting lube when cutting steel with your hole saws)

So these are the main materials and tools i used to work through the project. There would be nothing to stop you from using your imagination or skills to diversify and end up using different tools of your choosing if you felt the need. Regards materials, if you subbed out the painting side of the project to a spray shop, you obviously don't need to buy the above paint supplies.That pretty much covers it then. Good luck and good hunting. In my next tutorial we get stuck in, down and dirty, and working on the project, hands on.

Many thanks,





Hi and welcome to my third tutorial.In part three, we will be looking at starting the build by dismantling the two '94 original Thunderbird mirror assemblies,and then attending to the two '71 - '73 reproduction mirror assemblies and getting them prepped up for further usage later on.I will be providing some photos in this tutorial which will help to explain what is going on with the work involved.


We will start by pulling down and taking apart the T Bird assemblies. The best place to start is by using your Dremel tool with a very thin cut off wheel attached.Go to the top of the miiror housing or body and cut out and remove, a large section of the mirror body. We do this because this is the best and easiest way to gain access to take apart and remove the parts we want.Speaking of that very thing,here is a list of the parts that you will be keeping from the assemblies. The mirror motor and the wiring that is attached to it,colored red, yellow, and blue, the plastic back up mirror plate,the plastic tubing that acts as a wire protector, the big flat neoprean packing washer that goes between the motor and the back up plate.Take care when handling these old parts as you don't want to damage any of them.

Once the top section has been cut and removed, we now remove the mirror glass and back up plate part. Be careful here again when doing this. The best way is to try and get your finger tips under one end and the edge of the back up plate and apply firm but not too hard pressure upwards. Our aim is to prize or lift up the pack up plate off the circular mirror motor bezel. It also pays when you are prizing one end off, to support the opposite end of the back up plate to avoid putting too much strain on the motor bezel or back up plate.I find this technique works pretty well.

Once removed, you will see that the motor is held onto the mirror mounting bracket with three small but long screws with star heads on.These screws might be tight with age, so try not to strip out the heads.Remove the three screws, and remove the motor off the mounting bracket.If the motor is dusty or dirty, use a soft dry paint brush to clean it up. Never use and fluids or try and clean the motor.If the wiring came with an end plug, cut it off as you won't be needing that part. Feed the wiring back through the body, and take out the motor. TIP: Don't throw any thing away at this stage. Keep it all till the end of the project.

Next, we will soak or pickle the mirror glass and back up plate in a shallow container of wax and grease remover for about a day. NEVER use harsh solvents like thinners or acetone, as they will destroy the back up plate completely. That plastic is solvent sensitive. Wax and grease remover does the job very well without damaging any parts.After a day or so in the soak tank, the glass should separate from the plastic back up plate fairly easily.Clean any glue residues off the back up plate and dry off. You will be repeating this process the same for the second drivers side mirror assembly as well.So you now have taken all the parts you will need for the project off the original assembly, given them a clean up, and now they are ready to be used later on.There was a circular rubber bezel that acted as a water/ dust barrier and was located where the back up plate meets the motor bezel. I wanted to reuse this part in my system , but sadly when i tried to mount it on lastly, i found it would not fit properly as there was not enough room in the repro bodies to let that happen. On that point, my advice to all would be try to avoid as best you can, getting water back into the mirror housing when the project is finished. I myself, never wash my Mustangs in the traditional way with hose, bucket and sponge or rags. I think it would be foolish to let your garden hose blast water back into the mirror housing at all. I would be trying my best to keep it as dry as possible inside the housing area. That just makes sense to me.


In the case of the repro assemblies, we will only be keeping the mirror bodies themselves, and the two mirror glass/metal backup plates that come with the kit. These back up plates will serve as perfect templates for us to use when we later on construct the proper back up plates that we will be using for our project.Start on the drivers side assembly first, and unscrew the mirror back up plate and remove it from the body.Sadly, you will now have to cut the cable wires that link the toggle lever to the back up assembly. Unscrew the pedistal base off, from the upper body. You won't be keeping any hardware here.That's it.The two metal support profiles that are located on the inside walls of the body don't get touched, as they don't interfere with my operating mechanism at all. Next, we pull down the passengers side assembly.Simply unscrew the mirror back up plate assembly from the body, then unscrew the pedistal base off the upper body.Now, you will see a raised metal bar profile located in the middle of the hosing on the body floor. That was there of course to hold and capture the original back up assembly.We won't be needing that bar at all. It has to be removed. The best way i found to remove it was to use a air driven die grinder with a cylinder shaped metal tip filing rasp.

The metal we are dealing with here on the mirror bodies,is an alloy of sorts, and the rotary filing rasp takes care of the job quite well. Forget using your Dremel tool here. For this app, it's a toy and won't cut it. So work away at back grinding down the raised bar section in a careful manner. YOU STOP GRINDING WHEN YOU GET DOWN TO FLOOR SURFACE LEVEL. Don't start grinding into the floor itself. I would say, remove three quarters of that bar back into the housing. You can remove it all if you want. Once you have carried out this procedure,and you're happy, than that's it. You're now ready to move on. The two housings are now prepped up and ready for the next phase of usage in he project. BTW - If you insisted on using your original Ford factory sports mirrors for this project, (which i sincerely hope you have not) i hope you first checked out if the mouth opening measurements were exactly the same as the repro ones. If they were, then the procedure that i have talked about above, will be exactly the same for you in prepping up your original assemblies, as it is for the repro ones.

The next phase of the project concerns the building of the two motor support brackets. Building the brackets is a big part of my system where accuracy will really count in delivering a good final product.

Many thanks,


REFERENCE PHOTOS. (Sorry, they are not in correct order)

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Hi and welcome to part 4. We will now construct the drivers side mirror motor bracket. These brackets are a main part or the heart of my invention. It took me a long time and a great deal of research to come up with my final designs. What it's all about, and what is very important is the way the motors are positioned and placed in the Mustang mirror bodies themselves. Measurements and alighnments are crucial to carry it all off as gaps and tolerances are small. So the brackets play an important part for the end result. Also, the brackets must be strong and robust by design, yet functional and practical as well. I chose Aluminium for my bracket components, as the material is very light yet strong, and is very corrosion resistant in it's raw state. It is also an easy metal to work with and fashion etc. Accuracy counts here - so make it happen.


So getting started, you will have received my plans or drawings via E mail.These drawings should print out in real life actual size. First do a print out of one page, and with ruler, check to see if my measurements provided on the drawings match up accurately with what the ruler says as well. TIP: When you do the printout, make sure your printer settings are set to printing out the page 100% and not shrunk down in any way. If you're not happy with the accuracy, and you have tried every trick you know to get it right, then Email me again with your address, and i will go to the trouble and expense of printing out my original plans, and posting them over to you my normal mail. If you are happy, then the next step is to get your sharp scissors and neatly and as carefully as possible, cut out my bracket shapes, as to use these cutouts as templates. TIP: WHEN PRINTING OUT, TRY TO USE THE THICKEST PAPER YOU HAVE. This makes it more easy to draw around your cut out templates.

The drivers side bracket consists of two pieces - the foot plate and the upright or upper main section.

You will start by placing your paper template of the foot plate on the 50mm / 2 inch wide x 3mm / 1/8 inch thick aluminium flat bar strip. Carefully mark out around the template with your permanent fine marker pen. TIP: Get a little bit of masking tape to hold the paper template down on the metal strip.Now with center drift punch, mark out where the center of the holes are and punch a point mark in the metal.These tiny point holes will provide a starting point for your steel drill bits and help prevent the bits from wandering. When you do this procedure, you can also include marking out your upper bracket piece as well with paper template. Next is to cut up the flat plate as per your markings. The secret is to cut off the marked lines a little, as you can sand down the metal to the marked lines accurately a little later on.Make your cuts, and then go to the 40 grit dry sandpaper machine attachment on your bench grinder. The metal will sand down quickly and easily, so be careful and accurate with this process. Sand down to the marked lines. TIP: BE WARNED, THE METAL HEATS UP VERY HOT QUICKLY. Try using leather gloves to protect your hands from burns. Smooth off your edges with the wire wheel on your bench grinder for a good fast result. You could also do things a harder way and use 40 grit paper with a sanding block or a metal flat bastard file to take down the excees metal. That works too, but is a much harder and slower process. Once your two pieces have been cut and shaped and edge finished off, use a 9mm / 3/8 drill bit to drill the three holes in the footplate.Be accurate - it matters.TIP: It always helps to start off by selecting a smaller dia bit first, and then move up to the bigger bit next. That helps for drilling accuracy. Use a drill press if you want here. You will notice that the front and back holes a slightly elongated. Use your rat tail file to carefully elongate these two holes to spec. Now place paper template over the top bracket and center punch the three holes to be drilled out on the front of the bracket. Using a 10mm b / 3/8 bit, drill out the three holes. Don't do anything about the remaining two holes at the back of the bracket yet. Leave them alone for now.You will have marked out the fold line on your top bracket piece as per the template drawing. Now go to your engineer's vice, and place the bracket in the vice right on the fold line. With club hammer and a block of scrap timber gently bend and fold the bracket towards you till in comes down to a right angle on the vice.In my drawings, i have provided an angle guide for the correct angle the mirror bracket should be bent back to. Set your sliding beval to this angle dead on, and use the beval as a guide to set the bracket angle correctly back.This procedure is a trial and error one, as you will place your bracket in the vice and gently tap the bracket down till you get to the correct angle. Don't be rough here, as a little tapping goes a long way.Check with you beval for final angle accuracy


You are now ready to glue the footplate to the upper bracket. I chose to use Loctite brand epoxy 5 minute Araldite. This glue is just a fantastic product. It is very strong bonding and has good filling qualities as well. It's the perfect product to use for this project. After you do a glue job, wait about 20minutes or so, and you're ready to move on with your job - it's that good.Remember, when ever you use the glue you must sand down both surfaces to be glued with 80 grit dry sand paper. This helps to make a great glueing bond. Before glueing, line up the footplate with the bracket to make sure the cut out shapes are close to the same. If you're happy, then mix up your glue very well, apply to both surfaces, line up and position plates, then clamp together using a spring or G clamp. Wipe any excess glue off the job. REMEMBER, YOU HAVE A 3 MINUTE WINDOW OF OPERATION. Once the glue starts going off - that's it. After about half an hour,drill out the remaining two undrilled holes in the top bracket. You will of course use the already drilled out two holes on the footplate as a drill guide for this. IMPORTANT UPDATE: I have just described above the details and method for marking and drilling out the footplate holes.. However, you will notice that in my photos i took a different approach by drilling out the upper bracket holes first, and the footplate holes last.To be honest, you could approach this matter either way and get good results. But i think what i have written above is a slightly better approach to take.Sorry about that little technical hick up.

Finish off by doing any detail work needed. For example, you may find that the shape of the footplate does not marry up perfectly with the upper bracket shape it was glued to. If this is the case, then gently sand down both edge surfaces to mach perfectly.Make sure your edges are nice and smooth too. This bracket is now ready for testing. But first, we need to make another component for this bracket assembly. It's called a locking plate,and is made out of gal steel.I am using these steel gal locking plates for my two mirrors left and right, for the back lock downs only. The reason why, is if i was to use a normal nut for the bolts used, i found that you cant get a tool into the back of the mirrors when you are installing the brackets themselves.There is no access here. So i invented specially designed locking plates to get around this problem. These steel locking plates are made from gal steel flat plate 50mm / 2 inches wide x 5mm / 3/16 thick . You will see my template drawings for the locking plates. Choose the drivers side plate and mark out template on the steel.Cut the steel to shape using a hacksaw or jigsaw, and sand down to lines accurately.Now using your template and center drift punch mark a hole to be drilled out for your tapped thread.Drilling procedure is important here for threads. My threaded holes will be taking an M5 metric bolt or an 3/16 inch bolt. You MUST go down one size for your drill bit selection. So your drill bits used will be 4.5 metric and 5/32 imperial. Drill the hole out, and then using a 5mm or a 3/16 Tap, tap a thread into the hole you have just drilled. Use cutting oil here for tapping threads.When finished, check out bolt thread compatability. These tapped threads are a fine pitched thread too, not course. Once you're happy with the locking bracket, you are now ready to carry out some basic tests to see how accurate your bracket assembly went.

As i said before, positioning and alighnment are important for the mirror motors. In my designs, i have allowed for slop and adjustment of my bracket and motor mounting components to allow for any final adjustments that might be needed.In one of my pics, you will see the line up sequence for your nuts, bolts and particular washers to be used.The pic shows the use of a 25mm bolt with an extra nut attached. you could go this way, or just use a 20mm long bolt instead. So now, install and assemble the bracket into the mirror housing. Use a 30mm / 1 3/16 inch bolt for the back and a 20mm / 7/8 inch bolt for the front. Don't tighten down nuts at this stage. Now check for slop and adjustment. You should be able to move the bracket a little to the left and right, as well as to the front and back within the mirror body or housing. Also, check to see if the center hole for the wiring lines up fairly well too.This adjustment in the bracket will play an important part in your final adjustment setup at the end of the project.Now nip up the bolts and nuts so there is a little grab on the bracket, but you can still move it around using a little force. Get yourself a plastic cap off a rattle can of paint. This cap will be used as your tester tool.When the motor sits on the face of the upper bracket, it must have a correct alighnment.

This alighnment has to do with the vertical and the horizontal, or up and down and left to right so to speak. Place the plastic cap on the bracket face, and hold the mirror up to sight or line up. You will be looking for vertical alighnment first. The protruding edge of the plastic cap must run parallel with the vertical front edge of the mirror body. If it does not, then the back angle of the upper bracket needs to be adjusted either bent a little inwards or outwards.You can do this by hand without taking the bracket off and on if you want. I took my bracket off and back on again myself. The second alighnment is looking down along the top front edge of the mirror body. In this case, the protruding plastic cap must again be parallel with the front edge of the body. To adjust or correct this if not right, you should be able to move the bracket assembly to the left or right to bring the bracket into correct alighnment with the body.(See my pics) If you find that there is not enough slop or play to get it right, then you will have to remove the bracket, an enlarge the front and back bracket footplate holes with a rat tail file to provide more adjustment play. Lastly, the in and out alighnment of the bracket is important as well. You should be able to move the bracket in a little and out a little in the housing.With steel rule, measure from the face of the upper bracket to the front edge of the mirror body on the body floor. You should end up or settle for a 41 mm / 1 5/8 inch distance.(See my pic) Also, with marker pen, trace an outline around the floor plate. This will aid you when you come back later to do the second alignment test.

Once you are happy with the alignments and feel that they are correct, then your done. Congratulations, as you have now finished making your first bracket. In my next tutorial, we will build the passengers side bracket. This bracket will be of a different design in some respects.

Many thanks,



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TEST EXAMPLE OF MY BRACKET DRAWINGS. (Not to be used for your project)

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Link to parts 5 - 10

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