Hood refinishing help

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Hi Doc!!!... First of all... my name is Damián... you can call me UF too... (someone just did that in another thread... Uruguayan Fastback, UF )

You know, find something that works in that matter would be amazing... i did hear of a mixture of acids before... Here in Uruguay you just cant go to a shop and buy products, there aren´t any variety so, i tend to find the formulas and make the products myself... I´m now starting a 1970 coupé that´s been sitting in a humid garagge since 1982, the problem i have is that under the original paint, all surfaces are rusted.. ALL.... The car has no rust holes but this surface rust dont come off with a sander either so i kinda have to find something to kill that rust cancer everywhere...

As i´m far away from any supplier, i have to recover all the body parts, restore and reuse so that´s critical, seriously...

Well.. is anybody knows something, i thing we all can use this info...

We´ll keep in touche then Doc!!...

Remember... Damián or UF

Thanks, Damian! Now I remember - you used to sign your posts when you first got here, and I should have remembered. Thanks for the reminder!

We'll keep looking, and I'm sure we'll find the right stuff. Take care and stay in touch.

Doc

I should keep signing!!.. too lazy sometimes.. jeje

We stay in touch, any news i´ll let you know

Paint stripper followed by a pressure washer will get the job done rather quickly.

I do that to remove old paint and stuff everybody put to the cars all over the years, but is the rust whats complicated... imagine the engine bay, the trunk or the floor all rust dented...

you can sand some of the rust os the plane areas but in the unions or complicated to sand spots, you need something that "cures" rust for sure

I actually use phosphoric acid 10% in water to do that process but is not that efficient... you have to do the treatment for weeks till the rust spot turns black and is you sand it, you wont get and rust dust... It finally works but of course, there are some areas that you just dont get too easily and you can´t be 100%sure the rust is cured...

I know that some other acids do a better job.. they make the sheet metal shinny again and so.

Well.. if anything appears, we share it here

Damian

 

[droptop73]

I have heard flooding or soaking steel with white vinegar is a good reus removal/neutralizing process. usually it is done with small parts by soaking but I saw where a guy set up a pump and retrieval system and was doing complete hoods, fenders etc.

I'll look to see if I can find the link.

 

[PAPPY HAROLD]

WELL, IM GOING TO TAKE A CHANCE. GIVEN THE AMOUNT OF CRACKS AND CREVISES ON THE BOTTOM OF A HOOD, PAINT STRIPPER WOULD SCARE ME, NOT SURE I COULD GET IT ALL WASHED OUT AND GET GOOD ADHESION. IF YOUR IN A HURRY, GO MEDIA BLAST, IF NOT A LITTLE CHEAP ANGLE GRINGER OR AN AIR GRINDER, A DA. SANDER AND ELBOW GREASE. ME I HAVE THE LUCK OF HAVING THEM ALL AND USE WHATEVER I THINK WILL GET ME WHERE I WANT TO BE. CHOICES, CHOICES... I THINK YOU WILL GET IT DONE.

WELL, IM GOING TO TAKE A CHANCE. GIVEN THE AMOUNT OF CRACKS AND CREVISES ON THE BOTTOM OF A HOOD, PAINT STRIPPER WOULD SCARE ME, NOT SURE I COULD GET IT ALL WASHED OUT AND GET GOOD ADHESION. IF YOUR IN A HURRY, GO MEDIA BLAST, IF NOT A LITTLE CHEAP ANGLE GRINGER OR AN AIR GRINDER, A DA. SANDER AND ELBOW GREASE. ME I HAVE THE LUCK OF HAVING THEM ALL AND USE WHATEVER I THINK WILL GET ME WHERE I WANT TO BE. CHOICES, CHOICES... I THINK YOU WILL GET IT DONE.

P.S. WELD THE CRACK... IT'LL BE BIGGER NEXT YEAR AFTER YOU HAVE PAINTED

 

[droptop73]

If you drill a small hole at each end of the crack you will have a better chance of stopping it.

 

[Qcode351mach]

If you drill a small hole at each end of the crack you will have a better chance of stopping it.

That is 100% true !! Good advice Jeff !