Jeff. Could you take a picture of the evaporator unit under the dash? I am interested in how it looks on the passenger side by the kick panel and under the cowl vent.
Here's mine going in with the dash completely out of the way.
Great pic. Thanks. Are you able to keep the vent flapper that was on the passenger side in your car to let outside air in if needed?Here's mine going in with the dash completely out of the way.
The complete CAA HVAC inside unit is smaller than the factory heater core/exchange alone (mine was a non-A/C car).
Not the best pic - sorry.
Also - the sentiment on not being able to use R-134a in older HVAC systems is not entirely correct. I believe the common misconception is that it might not be recommended - mostly due to a chance of the R-134a and R-12 compressor oil mixing and creating the 'black death' sludge.
However, I've had personal experience with at least a dozen older systems having been upgraded to R-134a. My '95 Honda Civic for one - it blew icicles once I removed the factory blocking plate from in front of the condensor as long as the rpms were above 1100 or so. As well, my pal Jim (who happened to be a certified A/C technician) converted his '77 Jimmy's factory A/C to R-134a with no issues - you could hang meat in that truck on a hot day. My Mom's '96 T-Bird was converted over as well - no issues. Her '89 Dodge Dynasty - same deal, no issues. Also helped a bunch of customers at the Auto Hobby Shop covert their systems over the years - no issues... ever.
The key is to ensure the system is absolutely clean and purged before introducing the new refridgerant and oils. Having an actual A/C refridgerant capture/fill machine is a huge help. Especially, when checking for leaks - stick it on 'vacuum' and leaving it hooked up for a half hour, then fill the system without disconnecting anything. Works like a champ.
Good question. When I filled my system a month ago, I just filled the compressor from the top fill hole to the level indicated in the manual. I was planing on doing the same this time, but I don't know if there is a way of knowing how much oil is left in the other parts of the system to know if you add more or less. Anyone knows?
I could've probably done that, but I think the driver side might be better. Then again, if the flapper isn't in working order for one side of the other, you just pick the one you want. I actually made a 2nd plate and blocked both off... although, I wish I would've reused my driver side flapper (I think that's the one that still works).Great pic. Thanks. Are you able to keep the vent flapper that was on the passenger side in your car to let outside air in if needed?Here's mine going in with the dash completely out of the way.
The complete CAA HVAC inside unit is smaller than the factory heater core/exchange alone (mine was a non-A/C car).
Not the best pic - sorry.
Also - the sentiment on not being able to use R-134a in older HVAC systems is not entirely correct. I believe the common misconception is that it might not be recommended - mostly due to a chance of the R-134a and R-12 compressor oil mixing and creating the 'black death' sludge.
However, I've had personal experience with at least a dozen older systems having been upgraded to R-134a. My '95 Honda Civic for one - it blew icicles once I removed the factory blocking plate from in front of the condensor as long as the rpms were above 1100 or so. As well, my pal Jim (who happened to be a certified A/C technician) converted his '77 Jimmy's factory A/C to R-134a with no issues - you could hang meat in that truck on a hot day. My Mom's '96 T-Bird was converted over as well - no issues. Her '89 Dodge Dynasty - same deal, no issues. Also helped a bunch of customers at the Auto Hobby Shop covert their systems over the years - no issues... ever.
The key is to ensure the system is absolutely clean and purged before introducing the new refridgerant and oils. Having an actual A/C refridgerant capture/fill machine is a huge help. Especially, when checking for leaks - stick it on 'vacuum' and leaving it hooked up for a half hour, then fill the system without disconnecting anything. Works like a champ.
David, I didn't know there was a safety pop off valve in the compressor. I am still puzzled on how the actual coupling nut of the hose was pushed out. I want to fix the hose and then pull a vacuum to check if there are any other leaks. I have not found a local place that can custom make/repair a hose for me so I may have to send it to Cold Air in Florida, who fixed my hoses earlier this year.
Thanks. That's the minimum I will do once I can find a place where to fix the hose (recrimp a new hose onto the old fittings).
Thanks. Good idea, but it didn't work. I just went to a place that works with hydraulic systems. Initially on the phone they said they may be able to fix it but after seeing it they said they can't due to something to do with the location of the soldering.
Interesting theory. Actually, what happened is two-fold. The high pressure hose (compressor to condenser) burst. But I also found that the coupling nut that attaches the low pressure hose to the compressor was off (evaporator to compressor).
