Installing & Adjusting the Lifters

[timsweet]

It's been a while since my last engine rebuild. When adjusting the lifters, I'm assuming the tighten to the torque specs is enough upon first install.

Any periodic increments for rechecking?

Tim

 

[Mikes73]

I always follow the firing order when tightening rockers down so the cam is on the base circle when working on them. After getting everything set up your might give it a few weeks and see if everything stayed put.

 

[InjectedMach]

Stock or adjustable arms? stock Cleveland arms just get torqued down.

Adjustable self aligning rockers require hardened pushrods and guide plates and are adjusted quite differently.

 

[Mikes73]

Even on bolt down rockers it is a good idea to follow the firing order so you are not fighting the valve spring while tightening them down.

 

[timsweet]

So it's necessary to rotate the crank when tighten the rockers?

Tim

Even on bolt down rockers it is a good idea to follow the firing order so you are not fighting the valve spring while tightening them down.

 

[73pony]

Yes. The cylinder you are doing should be at TDC so both valves are closed.

 

[Mikes73]

Yup, I just cheat and bump the starter using a jumper wire going from the positive battery terminal to the "s" terminal on the starter solenoid. Much easier this way.

 

[73pony]

if the motor is out of the car just use a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer.

 

[basstrix]

Find TDC compression stroke for #1 then torque those two rockers (assuming you don't have screw in studs & guide plates)....then I think it goes something like this:

#1-TDC = Starting point

#5 TDC = rotate 90 degrees clockwise

#4 = rotate 90 additional degrees

#2 = rotate ...you guessed it...another 90 degrees.

...and so on.

 

[timsweet]

Any one have a link to a video for these adjustments?

 

[73pony]

Any one have a link to a video for these adjustments?

Do you have adjustable rockers or the stock style? I think someone asked this previously. If they are stock there is no adjustment at all. Just torq to spec with that cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke.

 

[timsweet]

Stock

Any one have a link to a video for these adjustments?

Do you have adjustable rockers or the stock style? I think someone asked this previously. If they are stock there is no adjustment at all. Just torq to spec with that cylinder at TDC of the compression stroke.

 

[73pony]

I don't think there is a video on that. Adjustable rockers are done in a couple steps and there are videos out there on that. For stock I don't have the manual in front of me but if you know what the torq spec is they just get tightened down to that amount while the corresponding cylinder is at TDC. Nothing really to it.

 

[timsweet]

As I stated it's been a while since I done major engine work.

If you use a piston stop tool and mark the damper twice for both hits the middle will be TDC. Just to double check both valve/tappit will be down?

 

[73pony]

I just stick a straw in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole and turn the balancer. When the straw stops going up you are at TDC. Just verify you are on the compression stroke with your timing marks. At that point follow the firing order to torque the rocker arms turning the balancer 90 degrees each time. Firing order for the 351C is 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 8. Turning 90 degrees each time will put you at TDC for the next cylinder in the firing order.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I just stick a straw in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole and turn the balancer. When the straw stops going up you are at TDC. Just verify you are on the compression stroke with your timing marks. At that point follow the firing order to torque the rocker arms turning the balancer 90 degrees each time. Firing order for the 351C is 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 8. Turning 90 degrees each time will put you at TDC for the next cylinder in the firing order.

Perfect! ::thumb::

I read in my 1972 Chilton's Shop Manual that there is some weird combination for Clevelands that only involves turning the crank about 5 times, but I think it involves hitting all of the closed valve positions when the crank is in a particular position, rather than just each cylinder at a time every 90 degrees for a total of 8 90 degree rotations. :chin:

This way makes more sense [to me, anyway]. Thanks for sharing! :bravo:

Another tip: pulling the plugs to release the seal will make the engine very easy to turn by hand (if you're at this point of working on your engine, you might as well pull the plugs). I typically use an appropriate deep socket on the crank bolt with a 1/2" ratchet on mine - works like a champ!

Good stuff guys!