Introduction

[Austin Vert]

My point is that these cars do not sell high and are out there at great prices so don't over pay for something needing lots of work. Do your searching and this is the time to buy people wanting holiday money.

Hi, and welcome from Brisbane, Australia.

Yeah David,

I think you're right there. I'm trying to sell my Mach 1 and have top money on it - can't get a look in.:whistling:

Greg.:-/

 

[Pegleg]

Hello & Welcome from across the pond in the U.K

 

[OzCoupe72]

Welcome from another newbie in Australia

I had second thoughts when I first viewed my first Mustang with all its flaws but in the end it is about a passion not the price so I bought it

You don't want to buy a lemon though so best check out its bonafides first then inspect it for rust and general mechanical

Listen to the guys on this site as they have been there and done that

My only advice is regardless of whether it is a rare model or not you will need to rob a bank (or own one!) to get it up to show condition

Whatever you think it will cost to restore or get on the road add about 30 - 100 percent and a couple of years to your estimate

Do your research and go with your gut feeling - I did

Hi everyone. I am a big fan of the 71-73 Mustangs. I do not own one at this time but I do have a chance to buy one. I joined this forum for advice on buying this car and hopefully I will be here while I restore it.

I hope you will be able to give me some advice and help.

I think I included a picture of the car. Not sure how tinypic works.

All I really know is the car has been sitting for ten years in a garage. It was just put outside. I want to get it out of the elements asap.

Thanks in advance for any information.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Rust will be hidden everywhere on these and you can spend way more fixing that you can ever expect to recover.

I think that's a given on any automobile restoration project, unless we're talking about the 'big leagues,' where Barrett Jackson, Mecum, the terms "concourse," "Boss 351," and "MCA Thoroughbred Gold" are used. These things are not investments or money-makers without first having established credentials and/or lots of money up front to work with. And even then, our cars are not exactly 'big-ticket items,' all things considered.

I know if I sold my car today, I wouldn't get anything close to what I have into it - maybe not even half... but that's never been my goal, either.

You need to get a picture of the sticker on the drivers door that gives all the information for what model the car is. It could have started life with a 6 cylinder. I myself would stay away from a L code 6 cylinder or F code 302. You want a Q code if you can find one.

As with any major project, a plan should be established beginning with defining the purpose and intended outcome/goal. If a guy's looking for a high-dollar flipper, I'm pretty sure this isn't the car to start with. If having a cool '71-'73 Mustang to work on and drive as a pleasure vehicle is the goal, then I'd have to say just the opposite can be true. If he's wanting a stock example, then sure - hold out for an M, Q, or J code (if he's wanting a big block). But if he's wanting a car to make his own (i.e., Restomod), then there's nothing wrong with picking up a 'lesser' car and going his own direction.

"Restomod" means many different things to many people. I consider mine to be a 'Day Two Restomod,' because I employed cosmetic mods that are period correct for what would've happened to the car after the owner got it home, but it has also some modern non-cosmetic/performance things thrown into the mix.

There are also no rules when it comes to restomods, either - he can go as mild or wild as he likes. Regardless, it'll still be cool because another Clydesdale will be saved. ::thumb::

I see Chicago as your location so anything that has been there has the salt treatment. If the car had Ziebart that helps but does not stop the rust. The cowl below the windshield is an area that rusts no matter where the car is from. Rain water and water from washing goes in and the raw steel loves it. So be sure to look under the dash and pull the carpet up. Yes they make lots of the parts but some are still not available. Better to pay more up front for a solid body than to try to rebuild a rust bucket. If the car has been there for 10 years there is a reason might not be more than a parts car.

His having done body work will go a long way toward correcting any areas of rust or decay... as well as getting rid of previous cosmetic blunders (glitter paint - yeesh :shootself: ). I think he's probably in a whole lot better place to start out than I was when I started in on mine.

Just like any investment go in with eyes wide open and all the information you can get. Never take the owners word for what is there see it for yourself.

As always, sound advice. ::thumb::

I have seven 72 & 73 mustangs so I know them pretty good.

The only thing that was on a Mach 1 that you could not get on other models was the Words Mach 1, Mach 1 sports interior option, and the plastic insert in the carpet that only Mach 1 got. Mach 1 was just a name not a performance package as many believe. You had to add all the good stuff which could be had on any model.

Ummm - yes and no. Don't forget the '05' in the VIN designates whether a car is a Mach 1 or not - period. That, unfortunately, has a lot to say when it comes to actual value of the vehicle... just like "Boss 351" carries so much weight. Obviously, if there's a coupe or 'vert with '05' in the VIN you should run away immediately because something shady has happened in that car's past. :shootself:

I just hope we're not scaring him off with all the back & forth. Let's see what he comes up with - he'll know more about what's doable within the scope of his skills, time, budget, and patience than we do, after all.

I can't wait. It's always exciting to see a new project take off.

 

[Furnitureguyrm]

Vin Number

Picture of interior. As best as I can get.

On Saturday I will be able to go inside the car. I will be given the keys.

 

[73pony]

So according to the VIN. It is a 73 Mach 1. "H" code or 351 Cleveland 2V made in Dearborn, MI. Prob manufactured around Mayish 1973.

 

[73pony]

IF the door tag is inside the drivers door and intact and correct it will also give codes for the original paint color, interior trim, transmission, rear axel, original ordering district, and actual manufacture month and year. The vin should also be on this tag and match that of the tag on the dash.

 

[Mister 4x4]

1973 H Code. Nice! So much for rarity, eh? :whistling:

Mine's also an H-Code... still matching numbers even (although I tossed the FMX for an AOD - LOL).

I say go for it and have some fun! ::thumb::

And yeah, "Eeeewww," on the glitter paint. :shootself:

 

[73pony]

Mine is a numbers matching 73 H code as well. I also yanked the FMX but swapped with a T5. I kept the FMX though as it was VIN stamped to match as well. Just need to muster up the energy and some friends to move it out of the garage and down to the basement for storage.

 

[BeerDontCount]

Welcome aboard! You've gotten lots of great advice here. The only thing I have to add is that if this isn't this one, find another another that will be worth it to you. These cars have a cool factor that continues to grow, and you can step into one much more cheaply than the other first generation Mustangs. And you will get plenty of support and encouragement from the experts here to help you wade through the steps to make it what you want.

Scott

 

[mickus]

Welcome from Perth Australia.

I can't truly express the thrill of nearing completion on my 71 restomod. Countless hours, a few bruises, headaches and a wallet that has wanted to set fire to itself. It's a magnificent journey with huge rewards and my new friends from around the world on this forum have made it all the more easier, even if most of the time I was lurking in the background just gleaning information. ::thumb::

I hope you can share your journey too!

Cheers...

...Mickus

 

[goodnigh]

Welcome from northern California.

mike

'71 M-code Grande w/toploader

 

[mach71351c]

Welcome from San Diego.

 

[JD79]

Welcome from the Netherlands!

 

[Furnitureguyrm]

Update

There is no plate in the door. No other info available. I took a picture of the motor.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[will e]

It does look like a cleveland. It's not a 302 or windsor for sure. (You can tell by the radiator hose going into the block).

There is some funkiness going on with the belts. Not stock.

The good news is the engine compartmant doesn't look like it has any degree of rust and no one has tried to hid it if it does. It may be a solid car.

Fixed up it won't be worth a lot of money. If you think the body and pans are pretty solid I would work the seller on price. There are not going to be a lot of people lined up to buy it with the sparkle paint and all.

 

[Furnitureguyrm]

The door tag. It was there.

Millage

Wheel well

The Trunk

some rust.

I was just wondering what a fair price would be. I have more pics if anyone needs them.

Thank For all your help.

 

[73pony]

Was originally bright red with white vinyl interior "Mach 1 luxury" C6 trans with 2.75 open Ford 9" rear end. Ordered to Chicago district.

Value depends on how extensive the rust is. Does it run and move? Is engine seized up?

As mentioned earlier there is something strange going on with the belt set up and the radiator looks odd as well. As I always say something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

 

[Furnitureguyrm]

I don't know if it runs. I noticed the belts and the radiator. I want to stick a battery in there to see if it turns. I also have some concerns with the electrical. I think there are two kill switches. And some funky switches.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Furnitureguyrm]

Carb

Engine

more detail on belts and radiator.

The owner has thrown the ball in my court and won't give me a price.

I was thinking of offering $3000. Is this a good offer ?

Thanks.