What kit did you use? When I was looking I didn't see anyone making something that fits our cars?- Electric Life power windows
Greg
What kit did you use? When I was looking I didn't see anyone making something that fits our cars?- Electric Life power windows
Yes I did. I was a swap from a fold down parts car to mine that wasn't set up for it. Was a great project to do though!Did you transfer the brackets and latches as well:huh: I hear they are hard to come byProbably the biggest rabbit I pulled out of my hat.
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-converting-from-regular-to-fold-down-rear-seats?highlight=wall
Here's what I found: 4101-09-S98 COLIBRI STAR 3 SWITCH FLUSH MOUNT UNIVERSAL POWER WINDOW KIT http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1045What kit did you use? When I was looking I didn't see anyone making something that fits our cars?- Electric Life power windows
Greg
awesome looking 4 link, i would of went 4 link but my fabricator recommended a ladder bar and said the cost is alot more to install a four link.Finished up welding the 4 link before the holidays. This week I'm going to tear down the rear end and run it over to Speedway Engineering to make sure the axle tubes are straight after welding them. Next will be the rear end shop for a locker.
i was curious on how an exhaust would have to be different on a ladder/four link car would need to be. is your tail pipes exiting right under the axle? i think when u go to a four link and ladder bar when you jack up the car, the body doesn't realy separate from the car nearly as much as leaf springs so you don't need to worry about the axle hitting the pipes if you go with the tail pipes going under axle if you went that route. i could be wrong though.@blue oval,
you're gonna like that rear suspension,.. it probably the best thing i did to mine,.. it feels so much better now..
i used a triangulated setup..
here's my list
front suspension
550lbs front springs cut down half a coil
roller perches ,moved 1"outward on the upper arm
boxed upper and lower arms
street&track struts
home made tower brace (1-piece.)
13"cobra brakes (with my own made adaptors for disc spindles)
subframe connectors
Hydroboost
rear suspension
4-link triangulated
11.65" cobra discs
9"locker 3.89 gears
body
narrowed front and rear bumpers with no bolt holes, shortened bumper brackets so that the bumper sits closer to the body.
us-body 3"dominator hood
replaced roofskin , it was rotted thru
own made headlight surroundings and grille
interior
Cobra sport seats
no rear seats.
made side windows electric with 1994 thunderbird motors
audio installation
center console home made
autometer gauges, 2x 5"in stock gauge panel.
engine / trans
was 302/fmx
now 351Boss with 4-spd toploader ,10.2cr
crane cams f238 cam
torkerII intake
1" 4-hole tapered spacer
quickfuel 750cfm carb
msd ignition,wires.box
fpa-headers
3" exhaust which narrows to 2.5" after the X, then into spintech mufflers
wheels 17x8 and 17x9.5 centerline daggers with 255/45 and 285/40
cheers
Ben
Oh, you were refering to the one I accidently sent to the crusher. Yes it's true forgot to remove the fold down latch. Made $55 in scrap and cost me $100 to replace the latch. Thanks Roy! BTW I'm still looking for a the knob for the top of the release if anyone knows a source.Did you transfer the brackets and latches as well:huh: I hear they are hard to come byProbably the biggest rabbit I pulled out of my hat.
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-converting-from-regular-to-fold-down-rear-seats?highlight=wall
Mine is based on the Martz Chassis kit for the earlier cars. I took tons of measurements and they made slight adjustments to their setup. I had to do some fab work, but anything "bolt on" usually requires cussing and welding. At some point I will start a build thread and post tons of pictures. Right now the Rear end is out getting straightened before I put a Truetrack and fresh parts in.For the 2 of you with 4 links (and anyone else for that matter if you know), did you use a kit of sorts (even a universal one) or is it completely from scratch? Any better pics of how you connected it to the body of the car (crossmember, existing leaf spring mounts...)?
Ah, I was wondering if that was the case based on the cross member you used... that makes figuring out the geometry much easier. Honestly, from what I'm seeing in your picture it doesn't look like it was that bad, I suppose they probably gave you a location for the cross member relative to the axle and you could go from there. Looks like a fairly nice setup, though I would prefer either a longer panhard rod or a watts link, and it really looks like something can be done with the coil over mounts to accommodate (though I guess I would probably end up doing the math and figuring out if there really is a point with the existing length of the panhard, I'm sure either way the rear axle location is more consistent then it was with the leaf springs).Mine is based on the Martz Chassis kit for the earlier cars. I took tons of measurements and they made slight adjustments to their setup. I had to do some fab work, but anything "bolt on" usually requires cussing and welding. At some point I will start a build thread and post tons of pictures. Right now the Rear end is out getting straightened before I put a Truetrack and fresh parts in.
Mine is completly built from scratch, i ordered the links from the UK, and all the brackets are lasercut by a friend of mine.For the 2 of you with 4 links (and anyone else for that matter if you know), did you use a kit of sorts (even a universal one) or is it completely from scratch? Any better pics of how you connected it to the body of the car (crossmember, existing leaf spring mounts...)?
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