Lets see Your modifications you did to your mustang

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- Electric Life power windows
What kit did you use? When I was looking I didn't see anyone making something that fits our cars?

Greg
Here's what I found: 4101-09-S98 COLIBRI STAR 3 SWITCH FLUSH MOUNT UNIVERSAL POWER WINDOW KIT http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1045

I haven't found any information on how exactly it works, but I'm sure it somehow uses the existing regulator and maybe substitutes the Colibri unit for the window crank mechanism. I know the actual window crank itself can be replaced with a switch that 'looks' just like a window crank.

If nobody else has experience or knowledge of these kits, I'll definitely be sharing what I find out when the time comes (I'll also be getting a power lock/keyless entry system from them as well).

 
Oh I got it now. I thought you had already installed a kit.

I have installed that exact type of thing in mine so I have plenty of experience with it. It has an adapter that goes around the window crank and just turns it.

Greg

 
Finished up welding the 4 link before the holidays. This week I'm going to tear down the rear end and run it over to Speedway Engineering to make sure the axle tubes are straight after welding them. Next will be the rear end shop for a locker.
awesome looking 4 link, i would of went 4 link but my fabricator recommended a ladder bar and said the cost is alot more to install a four link.

is that the trunk cut out in the pic? i was told its difficult to put a 4 link in a stock frame rail car.



@blue oval,

you're gonna like that rear suspension,.. it probably the best thing i did to mine,.. it feels so much better now..

i used a triangulated setup..

here's my list

front suspension

550lbs front springs cut down half a coil

roller perches ,moved 1"outward on the upper arm

boxed upper and lower arms

street&track struts

home made tower brace (1-piece.)

13"cobra brakes (with my own made adaptors for disc spindles)

subframe connectors

Hydroboost

rear suspension

4-link triangulated

11.65" cobra discs

9"locker 3.89 gears

body

narrowed front and rear bumpers with no bolt holes, shortened bumper brackets so that the bumper sits closer to the body.

us-body 3"dominator hood

replaced roofskin , it was rotted thru

own made headlight surroundings and grille

interior

Cobra sport seats

no rear seats.

made side windows electric with 1994 thunderbird motors

audio installation

center console home made

autometer gauges, 2x 5"in stock gauge panel.

engine / trans

was 302/fmx

now 351Boss with 4-spd toploader ,10.2cr

crane cams f238 cam

torkerII intake

1" 4-hole tapered spacer

quickfuel 750cfm carb

msd ignition,wires.box

fpa-headers

3" exhaust which narrows to 2.5" after the X, then into spintech mufflers

wheels 17x8 and 17x9.5 centerline daggers with 255/45 and 285/40

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cheers

Ben
i was curious on how an exhaust would have to be different on a ladder/four link car would need to be. is your tail pipes exiting right under the axle? i think when u go to a four link and ladder bar when you jack up the car, the body doesn't realy separate from the car nearly as much as leaf springs so you don't need to worry about the axle hitting the pipes if you go with the tail pipes going under axle if you went that route. i could be wrong though.


also NHRA has stated now that our exhaust should point away from gas tank now which most do anyways. but some people do have nothing after a muffler and point straight towards the gas tank.

 
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For the 2 of you with 4 links (and anyone else for that matter if you know), did you use a kit of sorts (even a universal one) or is it completely from scratch? Any better pics of how you connected it to the body of the car (crossmember, existing leaf spring mounts...)?

 
Did you transfer the brackets and latches as well:huh: I hear they are hard to come by
Oh, you were refering to the one I accidently sent to the crusher. Yes it's true forgot to remove the fold down latch. Made $55 in scrap and cost me $100 to replace the latch. Thanks Roy! :p BTW I'm still looking for a the knob for the top of the release if anyone knows a source.

 
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For the 2 of you with 4 links (and anyone else for that matter if you know), did you use a kit of sorts (even a universal one) or is it completely from scratch? Any better pics of how you connected it to the body of the car (crossmember, existing leaf spring mounts...)?
Mine is based on the Martz Chassis kit for the earlier cars. I took tons of measurements and they made slight adjustments to their setup. I had to do some fab work, but anything "bolt on" usually requires cussing and welding. At some point I will start a build thread and post tons of pictures. Right now the Rear end is out getting straightened before I put a Truetrack and fresh parts in.

@ Olie

Yes in that pic the trunk floor was (and still is) out. I had hacked the stock floor years ago (before Spectra or anyone made a tank) and put a fuel cell in the trunk. I have a full replacement floor, but didn't weld it in yet because I want to do every possible prep and repair in the rear that I can reach through the floor. I had it in and out dozens of times doing the four link.

When I get the rear end back I'll drop the floor in and post pics of what it looks like all together.

 
Mine is based on the Martz Chassis kit for the earlier cars. I took tons of measurements and they made slight adjustments to their setup. I had to do some fab work, but anything "bolt on" usually requires cussing and welding. At some point I will start a build thread and post tons of pictures. Right now the Rear end is out getting straightened before I put a Truetrack and fresh parts in.
Ah, I was wondering if that was the case based on the cross member you used... that makes figuring out the geometry much easier. Honestly, from what I'm seeing in your picture it doesn't look like it was that bad, I suppose they probably gave you a location for the cross member relative to the axle and you could go from there. Looks like a fairly nice setup, though I would prefer either a longer panhard rod or a watts link, and it really looks like something can be done with the coil over mounts to accommodate (though I guess I would probably end up doing the math and figuring out if there really is a point with the existing length of the panhard, I'm sure either way the rear axle location is more consistent then it was with the leaf springs).

I'm looking forward to seeing a build thread :cool:

 
For the 2 of you with 4 links (and anyone else for that matter if you know), did you use a kit of sorts (even a universal one) or is it completely from scratch? Any better pics of how you connected it to the body of the car (crossmember, existing leaf spring mounts...)?
Mine is completly built from scratch, i ordered the links from the UK, and all the brackets are lasercut by a friend of mine.

the lower links are connected to the stock leafspring mounts, and the rest is custom..

here are some pictures from the build at the time.

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those competition eng, shocks are replaced with QA1's now..

hope this helps a bit..

cheers

Ben

 
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