My front and rear tow hooks for racing

[tony-muscle]

Next year I want to race in the Optima USCC. One of the rules is to have tow hooks at the front and rear of the car. I wanted to add these to my car without making any permanent mods and I wanted them to be removable. After a lot of search for a hook with a long thread I found one designed for the 6th gen Camaro (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S3V9Y9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1).
I built brackets for each hook using a 2"x2"x1/8" angle profile and a 2" strip of steel I had laying around. A bit overbuilt compared to other very thin hooks I have seen. My hooks should be able to handle some side loading before bending which I hear is an issue with some aftermarkets versions.
For the front I built a simple bracket that shares the screw that attaches the bumper to the front rail. The other screw uses an existing hole on the bumper bracket. I then welded a 3" threaded coupler where the hook gets screwed.
For the rear it was a bit more difficult. I didn't want to drill a hole on the valance so I used two existing holes that were on the rear rail forward of the spring shackle. I built a bracket that screws into these two holes and goes down below the valance. I welded another 3" threaded coupler where I can screw the hook. The rear bracket will be attached just before each race. There is a 1/2" gap between the bracket and leaf spring. This may not be enough to clear the spring when cornering. I don't know how much the shackle will move sideways but in my case, since I will be installing a panhard bar, it won't matter.

Front hook bracket along bumper bracket:



Front hook:


Rear hook bracket:


Rear bracket attached to rear rail and next to the leaf spring:


Rear hook:

 

[MikeGriese]

Remember that the tow hooks need to be mounted to something stout enough to be able to withstand towing the car out of a gravel trap - you won't get much help from tires. You don't want the hook to pull out, and you don't want the asymmetrical pulling force to damage the car. For example, if your car is wedged next to a tire barrier, the only way to extract it may be to pull the front or rear end sideways.

 

[tony-muscle]

Remember that the tow hooks need to be mounted to something stout enough to be able to withstand towing the car out of a gravel trap - you won't get much help from tires. You don't want the hook to pull out, and you don't want the asymmetrical pulling force to damage the car. For example, if your car is wedged next to a tire barrier, the only way to extract it may be to pull the front or rear end sideways.

Do you think these mounts to the front and rear rails are stout enough? Those are pretty much the stoutest points at the front and rear that I could find.

 

[Kilgon]

Mike has a good point there. Just wondering if you use square tubing instead and tie both sides together like a u or H shape if that would provide better strength and distribute the load to both sides for side pulls. If you use square tubing you could also maybe set it up like a trailer hitch where you could put the hooks in when needed. I like the way you did the front.

 

[tony-muscle]

These hooks are not intended to tow you when you crash. Mainly used when you have a minor break or engine issues so they are typically used to roll your car quickly out of the track. Many cars use aluminum paper thin hooks that won't take too much side loading. That said, In the rear i will have a cross member added with the Panhard bar which will be located right behind the axle, which is right on front of the tow hook attachment.

 

[droptop73]

Best wishes in running the Optima events!