Need Help With Value on 72 Convertible...UPDATE with pics and story

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good source to check on value of all vehicles value book that rates vehicles from 1st year produced on basis of rating #1 for mint to 5 for a klunker but also % for certain options to the model which a 72 cónvertible is lower than past years ie but ranges for covertible being highest in #1 value @ 6 years ago as @ 28 000 now dropped @ 1 000 dollars i would like to believe mine @ 32 000 though a lot of modifications ie not stock re power disk might have been original ie converted from automatic to hurst 4 speed stick @ 156 000 miles on odometer rebuild/upgrade engine changing out base rear axle ratio engine compression engine oil capacity from hydraulic lifters to solid lifters from q code engine to ~ r code beefed up suspension rear sway bars just as unsure of original exterior paint code if was changed out to manual having toploader tranny having installed efi onto a 2 barrel intake manifold and if w/vin # q code will be dual exhaust might not have come with limited slip différential posi traction original cosmetics unless you obtain original sticker of options for year 72 is located at driver side door you not be able to obtain a marti report ie certificate of stock authenticity.

So your rebuilt power plant ground effects tranny the best way to handle your mustang like this year according to old cars weekly magazine is to enjoy your stang drive it install upgrades to your liking satisfaction and enjoyment. As my 72 is virtually perfected like some hand built europeón sports car it is still looked like probably #2 rating but with how much you put into it even not going into the frills ie sticking with the original manifold rather getting a little more bang for replacing with set of hooker headers and pair of flowmasters to replace those muffled restricted mufflers that were a ho hum lack of a good sounds for what engines then were built to have a rich race track sound that current engines may only sound rich because of the compression reduced and scientifically dcb tuned mufflers. As for your body being off adjustment be aware a little extra mud in this joint or because of a minor fender bender which you may never track to as the car fox only tracks back to the beginning of the longer vin #s came about years later so you may have an easy problem of the mismatched fender or worse having to tear down the entire body and after straightening out the frame and replacing ford panels then like going back in time utilizing laser perfecting measuring tools and good luck in reassembling it. I had a driver side front frame rail that proved my stang was in a fender bender was pushed and inward and @ time could not find the replacement just traced it and fabricated closest so witout being to reinstall precisely by laser accuracy in building it then precisely measured to mirror perfect adjustment to the passeger or its mate it was measured to be 10% off in traction and still feel been better off spending an xtra 1 or 2k more in upgrading the frónt end frame including frame rails with upper and lower arms.....for a precision brand new look tracking...

 
I went and looked at the car today. Car is from original owner but the 58k miles are 158k I think. Appears engine and trans are original and never out of car. Car still runs and drives according to owner as recent as six months ago but was last registered and driven in 1990.

Options...302 with FMX, power disc brakes, tilt wheel, power steering, AIR, Protection package (front/rear bumper guards), AM radio.

Rust...floor pans and cowl are good. Trunk floor and bottom of quarters rusted out. LH quarter hit pretty good, dents here and there around car but not too bad. Probably need a new trunk lid.

Interior pretty good but needs freshening, conv top looks good and motor worked. Car has original lime green paint.

I think I can get pretty cheap (maybe $1k)...what's it worth?? How much to have someone put trunk floor, trunk drop offs and quarter panel patches in??

Jeff













 
I can only advise what I would do and I think I would pass. If it were all fixed up it still wouldn't be worth that much maybe 8-10k. Even if you got it for 1,000 how much time, effort and money are you willing to put into it to make it an 8-10k car? Maybe 6k to get it running good, body work and paint...probably closer to 7k+ though.

Option 2, learn to weld and do engine work. Then you'd have 3k+ in repairs.

Option 3, buy it for 1k and ard it out for $500-1000 profit.

Btw, I love the verts and hate to chop up our favorite 71-73 cars if there is any hope in saving them.

 
I concur 100% with Donstang - this is not worth the space or time or money unless you get it for nothing and part it out There are plenty of nice 71-73's out there in the $10-$15K range and I can assure you that you would spend more than that to get this car close to being nice.

 
Ya..i agree with above..Be worth it if you plan to part it out...And maybe if it ran and drove good..Mite make a good beater around town if you did not care about the rust.....If you just have to have it..I would offer 800.

 
from what I see it is not that bad check the rear frame area under the trunk and check outer wheel houses. I have seen what some people pay way more for and a good driving convert is a least 6 to 10 grand restored 15 to 20 depending on what is done.

 
if the rust is only what you showed in the trunk area, and the frame rails are good, I would get it for $800-$1000

wash it, clean it up really good with bare min $$, and flip it with a Price tag of $3995 obo and take the profit and put it towards a better condition car.

Just my 2 cents :D

 
Green interiors are slightly less common. You could make mony parting it out. 302's didnt normally get the FMX. If there's a chance it's a C6 hen the trans would be worth a little bit more. If you're not into parting it then you could save money in the long run buying a less rusty car with a 351.

 
302s could only come with one of three transmissions in 72 & 73: C4, FMX or 3 speed top loader.

In 71 it was only the C4 or 3 speed top loader.

 
73 302's got a C4 or manual 3 speed only the FMX was dropped

 
i just see a money pit that will not be worth what you put into it. i see a pretty original car where everything is just worn out from time.

the trans might of been replaced.

really i see it as a parts car you would make better money parting it out.

question to you is, does this car have the options you really want. or do you see a big block replacement and new trans and rear end going on it.

the car has A/C which is nice. its a AM radio looks like deluxe interior the dash pad is totaled, no floor console, idiot lights for the dash.

The interior will cost you 1000s$ if you want it looking like new.

mechanically what is it like. i'm sure the brake and fuel system will need a complete replacement to be safe. the car has been sitting a long time as well.

structurally it is a convertible you would want to majorly look at the frame rails front and back and how gone the rockers are, the missing trim usually means it rusted the clips off that hold the trim on, anything seen on the surface is 50% worse underneath.

if you bought this car to learn body work on that would be different, you will loose your shirt right off the bat and be underwater but worse case you screw up you chop the car up and call it quits, and part it out.

if the car belonged to a family member different story again.

from a project standpoint, unless you gutted it put a cage in it and made it a draging vert it wouldn't be worth buying.

make sure you by a car that has the options you want you can not live without.

only thing i see for me would be the A/C system

 
Thanks everyone for your input on this...the guy ended up wanting double what I thought could get for and passed. Appreciate all the well thought out comments and input.

Jeff

 
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