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Howdy from Phoenix. I really like your car. I think the custom paint of the interior piece looks sharp.

Since someone already transplanted a Windsor into it I would stay with that platform and use the money to fix it up. There is a lot more aftermarket support for them. Clevlors are cool but it can limit options.

If I had that car with a Windsor I would seriously be considering a super charger. ;)

 
Welcome from West Texas! Good lookin' car ::thumb::

Since you already have a running engine in there, as others have mentioned I'd stick with it if there aren't any major issues. :cool:

Out of curiosity, what engine did the car originally come with? Check the VIN - the first 5 characters will explain... for instance, mine begins with "1F05H" and says that it's a:

  • 1: 1971
  • F: Dearborn factory
  • 05: Mach 1
  • H: 351C-2V (engine code)


In the Drop-Down menus at the top of the page, Under the "Data" tab, you'll find "1972 Mustang." Click on it, and you'll see the various decoders, including the VIN decoder (scroll down a little).

I would wager it was either an F or L (302 or I-6) if the engine was swapped, but you never know. If it turns out to be an "F-code," you might check the engine casting numbers as well... just to make sure it's not actually a 302 engine, since both the 351W and 302 are the same engine family. I know I can't tell a 302 and 351W apart just by looking at them. Hey - it might even actually be the original engine, if it was born as a 302 car.

 
Howdy from Phoenix. I really like your car. I think the custom paint of the interior piece looks sharp.

Since someone already transplanted a Windsor into it I would stay with that platform and use the money to fix it up. There is a lot more aftermarket support for them. Clevlors are cool but it can limit options.

If I had that car with a Windsor I would seriously be considering a super charger. ;)
Click to expand...
Cleveland heads are a much better design than the Windsor heads. I run a 460 stroked to 501 cubes with the Blue Thunder heads in my dragster and those heads are just a scaled up version of the Cleveland. They can be made to flow very well. Although I do not plan to race this it makes better economic sense to build it for roughly the same amount of money as a high end Windsor.

I thought about a blower buildup bit I don't want to cut the hood.



Welcome from West Texas! Good lookin' car ::thumb::

Since you already have a running engine in there, as others have mentioned I'd stick with it if there aren't any major issues. :cool:

Out of curiosity, what engine did the car originally come with? Check the VIN - the first 5 characters will explain... for instance, mine begins with "1F05H" and says that it's a:

  • 1: 1971
  • F: Dearborn factory
  • 05: Mach 1
  • H: 351C-2V (engine code)


In the Drop-Down menus at the top of the page, Under the "Data" tab, you'll find "1972 Mustang." Click on it, and you'll see the various decoders, including the VIN decoder (scroll down a little).

I would wager it was either an F or L (302 or I-6) if the engine was swapped, but you never know. If it turns out to be an "F-code," you might check the engine casting numbers as well... just to make sure it's not actually a 302 engine, since both the 351W and 302 are the same engine family. I know I can't tell a 302 and 351W apart just by looking at them. Hey - it might even actually be the original engine, if it was born as a 302 car.
Click to expand...
The engine that is in the car is smoking out of the left bank which tells me that the cylinders are worn or machined wrong. The engine has been rebuilt at some time recently so I have to assume that it has already been bored .030 over and therefore there was a problem with the engine build and the cylinders on that side are scuffed or too loose. Which means that I would probably not be able to overbore it anymore. Besides I like to build up the engines and just swap them over a weekend.

It is actually an H code 351C 2V. Someone who owned it before me has pulled it for some reason (probably catastrophic engine failure) and replaced it with a 351W. It is a true 351W as the engine deck sits about an inch higher than the water pump. Thanks for the welcome everybody. I have owned a 72 and a 73 Mach1 in the past but back then there was no such thing as the interweb. I read a lot of Hotrod and Car Craft magazines back then. Cool site, Good people from all over the world.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The engine that is in the car is smoking out of the left bank which tells me that the cylinders are worn or machined wrong. The engine has been rebuilt at some time recently so I have to assume that it has already been bored .030 over and therefore there was a problem with the engine build and the cylinders on that side are scuffed or too loose. Which means that I would probably not be able to overbore it anymore. Besides I like to build up the engines and just swap them over a weekend.

It is actually an H code 351C 2V. Someone who owned it before me has pulled it for some reason (probably catastrophic engine failure) and replaced it with a 351W. It is a true 351W as the engine deck sits about an inch higher than the water pump. Thanks for the welcome everybody. I have owned a 72 and a 73 Mach1 in the past but back then there was no such thing as the interweb. I read a lot of Hotrod and Car Craft magazines back then. Cool site, Good people from all over the world.
Click to expand...
Cool - sounds like you know what's going on (never can tell what 'new' members know or don't know). ::thumb:: Hope I didn't insult you. :blush:

If you're looking to rebuild an engine anyway, I think I'd agree that going back to 351C would be a good way to go (depending on what your plans for the car involve). Should be pretty straight-forward to swap it back to H-code goodness, if that works out for you.

As far as over-boring goes, mine is punched out to .060". I know a lot of people think that's no good, but Hey - they wouldn't make pistons and rings so readily available if it wasn't a viable option. I'm not planning on racing my car or anything beyond an occasional burn-out to keep the Ricers at bay, so it should be just fine. So far, so good - it's not running hot or anything out of the ordinary.

 
The engine that is in the car is smoking out of the left bank which tells me that the cylinders are worn or machined wrong. The engine has been rebuilt at some time recently so I have to assume that it has already been bored .030 over and therefore there was a problem with the engine build and the cylinders on that side are scuffed or too loose. Which means that I would probably not be able to overbore it anymore. Besides I like to build up the engines and just swap them over a weekend.

It is actually an H code 351C 2V. Someone who owned it before me has pulled it for some reason (probably catastrophic engine failure) and replaced it with a 351W. It is a true 351W as the engine deck sits about an inch higher than the water pump. Thanks for the welcome everybody. I have owned a 72 and a 73 Mach1 in the past but back then there was no such thing as the interweb. I read a lot of Hotrod and Car Craft magazines back then. Cool site, Good people from all over the world.
Click to expand...
Cool - sounds like you know what's going on (never can tell what 'new' members know or don't know). ::thumb:: Hope I didn't insult you. :blush:

If you're looking to rebuild an engine anyway, I think I'd agree that going back to 351C would be a good way to go (depending on what your plans for the car involve). Should be pretty straight-forward to swap it back to H-code goodness, if that works out for you.

As far as over-boring goes, mine is punched out to .060". I know a lot of people think that's no good, but Hey - they wouldn't make pistons and rings so readily available if it wasn't a viable option. I'm not planning on racing my car or anything beyond an occasional burn-out to keep the Ricers at bay, so it should be just fine. So far, so good - it's not running hot or anything out of the ordinary.
Click to expand...
I thought about going back to the Cleveland engine and if I can find one for a good price that might be an option.

 
scacer1,

Welcome from Wake Forest, NC. I think the scheme on your mustang is the one of the most classic muscle styles out there. Also, did you do the red trim color inside? That was a Wow, that looks really cool. Not sure of the word i am looking for, but it adds some modern look.

mustang7173 ::welcome::

 
scacer1,

Welcome from Wake Forest, NC. I think the scheme on your mustang is the one of the most classic muscle styles out there. Also, did you do the red trim color inside? That was a Wow, that looks really cool. Not sure of the word i am looking for, but it adds some modern look.

mustang7173 ::welcome::
Click to expand...
Thanks for the compliment. No, the person that owned it before me did the paint and bodywork.

 
The engine that is in the car is smoking out of the left bank which tells me that the cylinders are worn or machined wrong. The engine has been rebuilt at some time recently so I have to assume that it has already been bored .030 over and therefore there was a problem with the engine build and the cylinders on that side are scuffed or too loose. Which means that I would probably not be able to overbore it anymore. Besides I like to build up the engines and just swap them over a weekend.

It is actually an H code 351C 2V. Someone who owned it before me has pulled it for some reason (probably catastrophic engine failure) and replaced it with a 351W. It is a true 351W as the engine deck sits about an inch higher than the water pump. Thanks for the welcome everybody. I have owned a 72 and a 73 Mach1 in the past but back then there was no such thing as the interweb. I read a lot of Hotrod and Car Craft magazines back then. Cool site, Good people from all over the world.
Click to expand...
Cool - sounds like you know what's going on (never can tell what 'new' members know or don't know). ::thumb:: Hope I didn't insult you. :blush:

If you're looking to rebuild an engine anyway, I think I'd agree that going back to 351C would be a good way to go (depending on what your plans for the car involve). Should be pretty straight-forward to swap it back to H-code goodness, if that works out for you.

As far as over-boring goes, mine is punched out to .060". I know a lot of people think that's no good, but Hey - they wouldn't make pistons and rings so readily available if it wasn't a viable option. I'm not planning on racing my car or anything beyond an occasional burn-out to keep the Ricers at bay, so it should be just fine. So far, so good - it's not running hot or anything out of the ordinary.
Click to expand...
I thought about going back to the Cleveland engine and if I can find one for a good price that might be an option.
Click to expand...
I found a 140,000 mile Cleveland with the AC compressor and hoses and all brackets with a rebuilt FMX for $900. What do you think?

 
::welcome:: from Germany, Europe!

Nice car ::thumb::

With that Clevo and all it's components like brackets, hoses, AC and even the rebuilt transmission you could not get wrong for that price. When you will rebuild it anyway buy it!
Click to expand...
That's what I figured so I went ahead and bought it. Thanks for the compliment.

 
OK, so this is what I am thinking. I have all the pieces to put the power train back to correct specs. It is an AC car so now I have what I need to get the AC system functional again. I will be able to make the ram air functional. I will do a freshen up on the engine with full floater forged pistons, an RV cam and put a set of Aussie cylinder heads on it with stainless valves and roller rockers. Anyone know what aluminum intake manifold will work with the ram air system? I don't know what the dimensions for the stock intake manifold are, so I have no way to compare it to an aftermarket intake manifold. Next in line will be a new Moser 9" nodular iron center section with 31 splines axles. Have the driveshaft rebuilt. New steering box and any linkages, shocks, or ball joints that need to be replaced. Then I should be ready for a route 66 trip. Anyone want to go?

 

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