Removing C6 selector shaft seal

The selector shaft seal is leaking, and no, the lockdown O-ring did not fix the leak (I don't hav that kind of luck). I think I have the process figured out except, how to remove the seal without buggering the case up. The manual mentions some specialty tools that I can not find anywhere. Hopefully someone has done this successfully and will be willing to share this bit of "how to".
Thanks, Chuck

 

[TommyK]

Chuck,

I did this 10 or 12 years ago so my memory might be a little fuzzy but, I dropped the pan and valve body and removed the shaft but I don't recall any particular difficulty in prying the seal out other than it being a little tight working in there against the trans tunnel. I may have dropped the cross member and lowered the trans a little but can't remember exactly. I think I just used a flat blade screwdriver or possibly a pick. Maybe I got lucky?

 

[Hemikiller]

I've used a smaller flat blade screwdriver and levered it out - carefully.

 

[c9zx]

My thanks to TommyK and Hemi for your replies. At least what you both said lines up with the only way I could see to get it out. It is amazing how leaks develop just sitting on the lift. I just don't drive it enough to keep it. Hopefully by spring it will belong to someone else. Thanks, Chuck

 

[c9zx]

Took on the seal replacement today. So far it has been a real PITA. Changing the seal went well, getting the gear selector, park rod, and kick down lever "rooster comb" installed NOT SO MUCH. The park rod is spring loaded and so is the rooster comb. Both wanting to mis-align the whole show. I ended up "rigging" a tool to hold the park rod rearward. While I dealt with the rooster comb spring and alignment of the shift selector and kick down lever. After hours of effort I got that part done. So I'm ready to install the valve body. So here is the question, how do I get the kick down lever between the spring loaded kick down plunger in the valve body and the stud beside it, and ensure the selector lever is properly engaged in the notched gear selector rod in the valve body? Any and suggestion are appreciated. Perhaps it is time for me to discover a new hobby. Thanks, Chuck

 

[c9zx]

I ended up using long shouldered, 1/4 x 20, bolts acting as guides to align the valve body to the main case. Then I had just enough room around the header collector to peak at and feel the down shift lever and manual select lever were in the proper location. Mated the valve body to the main case and installed the proper bolts. It is not something I will ever do again. I'm posting this in case it may be of someone in the future.