Replacing the top cylinders

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Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
487
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Location
Australia
My Car
1973 H Code Convertible
After 40 years my top cylinders have had it:) They were leaking for a while so it is time to replace them.

I bought two new cylinders and a hose kit from CJs. Had all I need to put this together.

First problem with all this is that even though the cylinders are listed most places as left and right, my research shows that what you get are actually the same, the replacements are not really left and right specific.

The factory orientation has the top input as towards the rear, and the bottom input facing towards the interior. Note below the difference in the upper input orientation between the factory drivers side, and the replacement "RH" side which is exactly the same orientation as the LH side

Old:

OrigRHCylinder.JPG

New:

NewRHCylinder.JPG

Fortunately it can still be installed without interference with the input facing forwards instead of rearwards as factory. Just need to make sure the hose is pointing in a good direction:

Right Hand Orientation.JPG

On to the next "issue". The old cylinders have a standard 37 degree inverted flare. Kinda hard to see here, but you can make it out:

OrigRHCylinder1.JPG

OrigRHCylinder2.JPG

And here's the new one, with no inverted flare. They include a flat neoprene or rubber washer (can't tell what the material actually is, but feels like hard rubber):

NewRHCylinder1.JPG

Now, this wouldn't really worry you too much if the new hose set had a flat interface, but it doesn't. It's also a standard 37 degree flare fitting, if not a little beefier than the standard hose set. Sorry, don't have a picture of these at the moment, but I felt I needed to sand the flare fitting a little to make a seal instead of them possibly just cutting into the seal.

Saga is not over with yet, the new Scott Drake hose set is leaking at one of the fittings. Seems to be between the transition from the block to a tube and not where the tube is crimped. Probably cracked when crimped.

Stay tuned...............

Greg

 
I don't think the originals are rebuildable. The top part is plastic though to it might be possible. But if it were, who would be able to???
The originals are not re-buildable. This is one of the first repairs I did on my 73 and I was able to find good used ones for $100.00. That was 7 or 8 years ago.

 
gpierce, side question: how tough is it to pull that top up when the cylndrs are disconnected? I have wondered about it because the hydraulic pump and rams are so heavy! Could save a lot of weight by removing those.

 
gpierce, side question: how tough is it to pull that top up when the cylndrs are disconnected? I have wondered about it because the hydraulic pump and rams are so heavy! Could save a lot of weight by removing those.

when the rams are disconnected, the top moves pretty easy.

I don't think the weight savings justifies the convenience loss of the power top

The pump weights 5 - 7 pounds

Rams are only a couple of pounds each

I'm thinking the last used set I shipped was about 10 pounds all boxed up.

 
The new hoses were leaking where they make the crimp. Material they use is pretty thin and it did crack at the bottom of the crimp.

So, rather than pay more $$ for another hose set (bought them more than 4 months ago) I used the rear set from the new kit and reused my old set for the front.

Here's what the new hoses look like:

New Hose.JPG

And here's the old hose:

Old Hose.JPG

Here's the left side cylinder installed:

left cylinder installed.JPG

All done now, everything works, no leaks. I still don't like the fact that the new cylinders don't have an inverted flare fitting so when the seals wear out I will probably make my own hose set with these (the best hose fittings on the planet if you ask me):

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-600-6

 
Pretty sure everyone has the same parts from the same manufacturers. I have not been able to see any visual evidence that this is incorrect. Anyone have some that proves otherwise?

Greg

 
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