Seeking Tips For Cleaning Engine From Machine Shop

[Wolverine]

When you guys get your engine/heads/crank/pistons back from the machine shop, what do you do with them?

Are there any particular areas of concern/tips with a 351C?

I believe the standard approach is to:

Tools/Supplies:

Water Hose

Engine Brushes

Wire Brush

Dawn, Tide, Equivalent

WD-40, Kroil, Equivalent

Compressed Air Gun with Long Skinny Attachment

Engine Stand

Tools to remove Oil Galley and Freeze Plugs

0. Remove Oil Galley Plugs

.5 Remove Freeze Plugs

1. hose/clean down block and heads with TIDE. Use engine brushes to clean galleys.

2. Insert long stem air blower into cavities and blow out water/debri.

3. Air Dry.

4. Wipe with dry cloth.

5. Repeat of residue is found.

6. Spray exposed iron with WD-40 to prevent rusting.(I am not a WD-40 fan myself, and will probably use KROIL). Try not to spray oil on surfaces to be painted.

6. Paint block/heads ASAP.

I imagine the following bolt threads should be run through to be sure they are in good shape after cleaning:

spark plug

head bolt

oil pan

intake manifold mount to heads

exhaust manifold mount to block

water pump

oil pump

distributor

Anything else?

 

[73vertproject]

Hey James -

So you are assembling everything yourself from the empty block (crank, pistons, cam, etc.)? I tried to do that and could not get the cam bearings installed to save my life. After ruining two sets of cam bearings, I took the block to the machine shop and had them finish the whole short block for couple hundred dollars more. That allowed me to focus my energy on the stuff that I found more interesting (intake, carb, etc.).

Good luck!

Doc

 

[Wolverine]

I tried to do that and could not get the cam bearings installed to save my life. Doc

On the only engine I have ever built, I first paid $1500 to a "reputable" engine shop to have a 351W with 130K miles rebuilt for me(long block). That engine ran better before the build. All kinds of issues with compression variance from cylinder to cylinder and valve lift.

So we pulled it, took it to another shop who "corrected" the previous errors($1150) and put that engine together ourselves from scratch...probably another $2000 because we hopped it up a little bit. That engine will last 200k miles I have no doubt. As a result, I am sticking to the previous successful operating procedure- trust but verify!!!

I do have a close friend and a very fine acquaintance that are local who are always happy to assist, they probably have about 40 rebuilds between them. So, if I run into a problem, they are my first line of defense.

 

[73vertproject]

Understood. Sounds like you've got a plan and a "team" (if necessary) to get it all put back together. Best of luck and please think about starting a Wiki...

Doc

 

[73mach1]

Unless you have a cam bearing tool I would have the machine shop do it.I use hot water and dawn dish soap,pull the oil galley plugs and use engine brushes to clean the galleys and any other place they can get to.Air dry it ,then run a clean wipe through the cylinders and mains to check for dirt,if dirty clean until towel comes back clean.Coat mains ,cylinders, deck and anything you don't intend to paint with your kroil.

 

[Wolverine]

Unless you have a cam bearing tool I would have the machine shop do it.

Actually, the machine shop did install the cam bearings...going to put that on my tip list.

Thanks for bringing that up Doc...

 

[droptop73]

It can never be too clean. It looks like you have a good game plan. Clean, clean again and clean some more. Use a good motor oil to coat the cylinders when done and cover it with a couple of large plastic bags to keep dirt out.

 

[Wolverine]

Cover it with a couple of large plastic bags to keep dirt out.

Do need the plastic bags...

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I would guess you are fastidious when it comes to a clean shop (that is intended as a complement) If not, you really need to start with a very thorough shop cleaning.

I recommend a few things that maybe aren't completely common. Get a shop heater. When you get done cleaning and washing your block, rinse it one last time with a bucket of water mixed with denatured alcohol. The water blended with alcohol will really help to speed drying. a 50/50 mix works well, but make sure it is denatured and has no additives. After it has been blown out, warm the block up to help dry any water out of the oil passages.

Cam bearings are soft. If they are installed before your cleaning, do not use any harsh chemicals as you can damage them.

Before spraying anything on the metal. paint the lifter valley, and the main caps and webs and noncontact internal surfaces with Glyptal paint. This will provide better oil return and will protect the metal from flash rusting. Once you start spraying penetrents and water displacers, getting paint to stick is a bigger headache. You can use brush on Glyptal, it flows and settles down nicely. Obviously it does not go on any surface that will have a gasket or a bearing touching.

You seem to be on the right track otherwise

 

[Wolverine]

When you get done cleaning and washing your block, rinse it one last time with a bucket of water mixed with denatured alcohol. The water blended with alcohol will really help to speed drying. a 50/50 mix works well, but make sure it is denatured and has no additives.

That is a great idea.

After it has been blown out, warm the block up to help dry any water out of the oil passages.

If my engine had an adjustable height, I could put it into the wife's clothes dryer...but I guess I will have to use her hair dryer instead.

Before spraying anything on the metal. paint the lifter valley, and the main caps and webs and noncontact internal surfaces with Glyptal paint.

This will provide better oil return and will protect the metal from flash rusting. Once you start spraying penetrents and water displacers, getting paint to stick is a bigger headache. You can use brush on Glyptal, it flows and settles down nicely.

Obviously it does not go on any surface that will have a gasket or a bearing touching.

Obvious to who???

 

[Mister 4x4]

I used some of the Permatex Gel degreaser, then power-washed it. Then while it was still wet, took a stiff bristle brush to it and knocked off anything left. After that, completely covered it with the Permatex Foaming degreaser, let it do its thing for about 15-20 minutes, hand-rubbed the stuff around (which loosened the last bits of stuff up), then power-washed it again. Poured some CLR into the oil galleys and water jackets, ran a galley brush through them after about a half hour. Then put a thin-outlet nozzle on the water hose and basically flushed all the galleys and fluid channels (lots of flakey brown stuff came out with that).

Did pretty much the same thing to the grime-soaked AOD before I tossed it into my car (up to the point of using the CLR), and it looks almost brand new now.

That's what worked for me.

 

[caspianwendell]

I always double check machine shop work before install such as plasti gauge the mains and rods, gap the rings, check the thrust bearing, deck surface for level, etc. and for myself I polish and balance the rods, port and polish heads...exhaust is the only one that gets polished. I also check piston to cylinder wall gap, and make sure it was bored true. I am assuming it was magnafluxed? I never let them clean or paint my stuff after they check for cracks so I can check for myself but it is rare that they miss one. That's all I can think of on the block. If you have a way to check the valve springs I would do that.

I am so thrilled you are building your own engine...nothing like the feeling when she breaths life again.

 

[Wolverine]

I always double check machine shop work before install such as plasti gauge the mains and rods, gap the rings, check the thrust bearing, deck surface for level, etc. and

I hope to have a write up on tricks to test these.

for myself I polish

me polish also.

and balance the rods, port and polish heads...exhaust is the only one that gets polished.

My wife is the only one that gets POE-Lished around here.

I also check piston to cylinder wall gap, and make sure it was bored true.

Absolutely...

I am assuming it was magnafluxed? I never let them clean or paint my stuff after they check for cracks so I can check for myself but it is rare that they miss one.

I was told it was. It was a standard bore block with very little wear, so I would be surprised if it was missed.

If you have a way to check the valve springs I would do that.

Valve springs are installed. If there is a way to check them at this point, I will.

I am so thrilled you are building your own engine...nothing like the feeling when she breaths life again.

It is like winning the super bowl when you turn the key and the engine fires up.

 

[marks73]

I used some of the Permatex Gel degreaser, then power-washed it. Then while it was still wet, took a stiff bristle brush to it and knocked off anything left. After that, completely covered it with the Permatex Foaming degreaser, let it do its thing for about 15-20 minutes, hand-rubbed the stuff around (which loosened the last bits of stuff up), then power-washed it again. Poured some CLR into the oil galleys and water jackets, ran a galley brush through them after about a half hour. Then put a thin-outlet nozzle on the water hose and basically flushed all the galleys and fluid channels (lots of flakey brown stuff came out with that).

Did pretty much the same thing to the grime-soaked AOD before I tossed it into my car (up to the point of using the CLR), and it looks almost brand new now.

That's what worked for me.

+2 to that. And afterwards! Flush, flush, flush!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Old fashion TIDE around here. After several washings...........Wash it again then we use Marvel Mystery Oil to coat it then we also bag it to keep the dirt from settling on it.

 

[427heaven]

Old fashion TIDE around here. After several washings...........Wash it again then we use Marvel Mystery Oil to coat it then we also bag it to keep the dirt from settling on it.

I dont know who you guys use for machine work but no reputable shop is going to return any engine parts that have not had the shake and bake treatment -the tumbler that uses caustic cleaning solvent for immaculate metal surfaces. No shavings, moisture, dirt, crud, and corruption WTF:huh: Also if it is returned in any thing but a HD plastic bag the Shop is sub par find someone else. Cleanliness is next to Godliness thats why they have CLEAN ROOMS for proffesional engine assemblies! If they dont have that run!!!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Old fashion TIDE around here. After several washings...........Wash it again then we use Marvel Mystery Oil to coat it then we also bag it to keep the dirt from settling on it.

I dont know who you guys use for machine work but no reputable shop is going to return any engine parts that have not had the shake and bake treatment -the tumbler that uses caustic cleaning solvent for immaculate metal surfaces. No shavings, moisture, dirt, crud, and corruption WTF:huh: Also if it is returned in any thing but a HD plastic bag the Shop is sub par find someone else. Cleanliness is next to Godliness thats why they have CLEAN ROOMS for proffesional engine assemblies! If they dont have that run!!!

LOL welcome to the South

 

[caspianwendell]

Old fashion TIDE around here. After several washings...........Wash it again then we use Marvel Mystery Oil to coat it then we also bag it to keep the dirt from settling on it.

I dont know who you guys use for machine work but no reputable shop is going to return any engine parts that have not had the shake and bake treatment -the tumbler that uses caustic cleaning solvent for immaculate metal surfaces. No shavings, moisture, dirt, crud, and corruption WTF:huh: Also if it is returned in any thing but a HD plastic bag the Shop is sub par find someone else. Cleanliness is next to Godliness thats why they have CLEAN ROOMS for proffesional engine assemblies! If they dont have that run!!!

If you want to pay extra for the spotless cleaning you can but even I can use soap and water (even in Arkansas)...LOL...sorry I could'nt resist

 

[Mister 4x4]

Old fashion TIDE around here. After several washings...........Wash it again then we use Marvel Mystery Oil to coat it then we also bag it to keep the dirt from settling on it.

I dont know who you guys use for machine work but no reputable shop is going to return any engine parts that have not had the shake and bake treatment -the tumbler that uses caustic cleaning solvent for immaculate metal surfaces. No shavings, moisture, dirt, crud, and corruption WTF:huh: Also if it is returned in any thing but a HD plastic bag the Shop is sub par find someone else. Cleanliness is next to Godliness thats why they have CLEAN ROOMS for proffesional engine assemblies! If they dont have that run!!!

Yeah - when you're out in the middle of West Texas, and two of all three machine shops have let you down in the past, you learn to take what you can get. If I gotta do a little cleaning myself to avoid paying almost double to ship it somewhere, get it done, and ship it back (another 'bennie' to living in BFE, West Texas), I'll do it.