Sway Bar Brands

[tony-muscle]

That is the the same design as the Addco 996.  Very curious if you like the performance of it..?

Unfortunately I have not driven the car with another sway bar to compare. I think the car is very stable when cornering.

 

[Kilgon]

4 hours ago, Lazarus said:

For what it’s worth, the 996 model (the design for those not originally equipped with the rear bar) goes straight across frame to frame without the “humps”.  Don’t know if that would be better for your exhaust fit or not.  I couldn’t find pictures or video online of the 996, but here is a video somebody posted of the 995, which is the same design but with measurements for a 68 Cougar:

Thanks for the input.  I have two problems when it comes to the ones you mentioned above.  I have tractions bars and where  they connect to the springs is in the same place that the 996's would go so that rules out the spring type.  Also my West Coast sub frame connectors rule out the on axle bolt to frame type due to where they are welded to  the frame.  I will have to try to see if the new 990 will fit once I get the dimensions or will have to try to find one that has the same dimensions as what is on there now but bigger and redo the mounting so it is similar to the way the Addco  996 mounts to the frame.

 

[Kilgon]

 I see, but I'm wondering about the extra U shackles over the spring. What is that for? Just curious.

I'm thinking that if and when you cut off the welded on brackets, the original bolt holes may be there and have the threaded nuts still intact inside. That would give you the same location as on mine...... if that is still relevant to the bar you decide to buy.

The u shackle is to the traction bars.   The bolt holes are there but do not have the inserted thread nut.  If the dimensions work out for the 990 I will see if I can get the clamps they use for their model 679 which is also a 7/8 bar.

 

[Stanglover]

The u shackle is to the traction bars.   The bolt holes are there but do not have the inserted thread nut.  If the dimensions work out for the 990 I will see if I can get the clamps they use for their model 679 which is also a 7/8 bar.

Ah, traction bars, I did not know you had those one. Thanks for the explanation.  On mine, there are 4 holes as seen, but only the front most have the nuts inside, which I presume are weld-nuts inserted during frame rail production.

I suspect a good alternative would be as seen in the sketch posted earlier in the thread.

I'm looking forward to learning what you decide to buy and install. All the best with that.

 

[Omie01]

I have the Addco bar that bolts to the u-bolts on the leaf spring in my car and it makes a BIG difference!! My car handles Exceptionally well!! Very tight in corners!!! I also have upgraded suspension all the way around, mostly Global West tubular stuff, and Del-a-lum bushings in the leafs. A little stiff maybe, but well worth it for the handling!! In case you're curious, I have roller spring perches in front, GW lower control arm struts that articulate on a ball socket, and an Addco 1 1/8" front sway bar. And Koni Gas-a-just all the way around. And quick ratio steering to top it off. Love driving my car. this set-up works for me. Good luck!

 

[Kilgon]

I have the Addco bar that bolts to the u-bolts on the leaf spring in my car and it makes a BIG difference!! My car handles Exceptionally well!! Very tight in corners!!! I also have upgraded suspension all the way around, mostly Global West tubular stuff, and Del-a-lum bushings in the leafs. A little stiff maybe, but well worth it for the handling!! In case you're curious, I have roller spring perches in front, GW lower control arm struts that articulate on a ball socket, and an Addco 1 1/8" front sway bar. And Koni Gas-a-just all the way around. And quick ratio steering to top it off. Love driving my car. this set-up works for me. Good luck!

Sounds like a nice setup.  My front suspension is stock other than the springs and having KYB Gas Adjust shocks.  The rear has been beefed up by adding two extra leaf's to the springs and the added on sway bar.  I am trying to get the sway bar back to a factory setup and then upgrading the to the 1 1/8"  for the front and the 7/8" in the back.   I got the following dimensions from Addco for the 990 and will see if I can make it work.  Getting ready to head out to Yellowstone Park so won't be doing much until we get back next month.

 

[Stanglover]

Kilgon,

As you already have the correct spring plates for the sway bar, as long as the holes I showed on the frame have the weld nuts inside, it ought to be a simple job. If the weld nuts are NOT there, then perhaps you can locate those U bolts shown in the sketch, or in worst case, weld the mount brackets. One thing anybody installing one of these bars ought to look at is the spacer I show to relocate the clip that holds the vapor return line. This is needed because the new bar does not have enough clearance in front of the tank. 

Good luck and enjoy your trip.

 

[Kilgon]

Ah, traction bars, I did not know you had those one. Thanks for the explanation.  On mine, there are 4 holes as seen, but only the front most have the nuts inside, which I presume are weld-nuts inserted during frame rail production.

I suspect a good alternative would be as seen in the sketch posted earlier in the thread.

I'm looking forward to learning what you decide to buy and install. All the best with that.

I finally got the front and rear sway bars installed today.  I got the Addco 550 1 1/8" for the front and the 990 7/8" for the rear.   My hole pattern on the rear was similar to yours but they were farther back from where you measured yours from.  My front hole was 6 3/4" back.   None of the holes were threaded. 

I got Addco to send me 2 of the u bolts and used them for my install.   I was able to use the front hole and had to drill a new hole for the other end of the u bolt. I also took a piece 1/4" flat stock and sandwiched it between the frame and bracket for better support and to help lower the bar just a smidge to give me more clearance between the bar and the area in front of the fuel tank. 

I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet but I'm for sure I will notice a big difference.

Old rear sway bar. Brackets were welded on.



Frame holes.  



Rear bar installed using u bolt and 1/4" flat stock.

 

Front bar



The new rear 990 next to the old one that was on the car.



The new front 550 next to the old one.

 

[Stanglover]

I finally got the front and rear sway bars installed today.  I got the Addco 550 1 1/8" for the front and the 990 7/8" for the rear.   My hole pattern on the rear was similar to yours but they were farther back from where you measured yours from.  My front hole was 6 3/4" back.   None of the holes were threaded. 

I got Addco to send me 2 of the u bolts and used them for my install.   I was able to use the front hole and had to drill a new hole for the other end of the u bolt. I also took a piece 1/4" flat stock and sandwiched it between the frame and bracket for better support and to help lower the bar just a smidge to give me more clearance between the bar and the area in front of the fuel tank. 

I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet but I'm for sure I will notice a big difference.

Old rear sway bar. Brackets were welded on.

View attachment 57048

Frame holes.  

View attachment 57050

Rear bar installed using u bolt and 1/4" flat stock.

 View attachment 57052

 Glad to learn you got it figured out. Looks like a good installation and I'm sure you'll find a huge difference over the old one. The old bar had to be a retro fit as Sportroof's didn't come with sway bars as far as I know. That said, I am puzzled that the hole dimensions on the frame rails are not the same as mine. You would think that the stampings would be the same across the line. Oh well, you figured it out and that's all that counts. Now go enjoy your work!!

 

[Kilgon]

 Glad to learn you got it figured out. Looks like a good installation and I'm sure you'll find a huge difference over the old one. The old bar had to be a retro fit as Sportroof's didn't come with sway bars as far as I know. That said, I am puzzled that the hole dimensions on the frame rails are not the same as mine. You would think that the stampings would be the same across the line. Oh well, you figured it out and that's all that counts. Now go enjoy your work!!

I would say that you are correct when it comes to the stampings of the holes all being the in same location.  I am leaning toward the rubber stop plate being off.  Since this is a added piece to the rail I can see there being a little give or take a when they are welded on.   

Another question if you can answer or for anyone that wants to chime in but the bushing on my rear sway bar has about an 1/8" gap.  Is this ok or should it be closed altogether?   See pic - it's a little out of focus but you can see it.

 

[Stanglover]

I would say that you are correct when it comes to the stampings of the holes all being the in same location.  I am leaning toward the rubber stop plate being off.  Since this is a added piece to the rail I can see there being a little give or take a when they are welded on.   

Another question if you can answer or for anyone that wants to chime in but the bushing on my rear sway bar has about an 1/8" gap.  Is this ok or should it be closed altogether?   See pic - it's a little out of focus but you can see it.

View attachment 57160

From the best pic I have at the moment, mine looks like there is no gap, but as long as the bracket is up "good "n" tight", it ought be be ok I would think. I don't know why yours has that gap, unless it's just the bushing itself. As for the dimension being different to mine, yes, maybe that bump stop is not in exactly the same place therefore a different measurement.

 

[Kilgon]

From the best pic I have at the moment, mine looks like there is no gap, but as long as the bracket is up "good "n" tight", it ought be be ok I would think. I don't know why yours has that gap, unless it's just the bushing itself. As for the dimension being different to mine, yes, maybe that bump stop is not in exactly the same place therefore a different measurement.

View attachment 57161

Thanks for the info and the pic.  That gap has been bothering me.  Seems to be a perfect place to catch dirt and cause the bushing to fail.   I decided to call Addco today and I spoke to one of the tech support guys.   He said that there should be no gap and agreed that it would cause issues down the road.  He said more than likely whomever packed the order grabbed a parts bag for a 3/4" bar.  All the hardware is the same except the bushings.   He is shipping me two more at no charge. 

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for the info and the pic.  That gap has been bothering me.  Seems to be a perfect place to catch dirt and cause the bushing to fail.   I decided to call Addco today and I spoke to one of the tech support guys.   He said that there should be no gap and agreed that it would cause issues down the road.  He said more than likely whomever packed the order grabbed a parts bag for a 3/4" bar.  All the hardware is the same except the bushings.   He is shipping me two more at no charge. 

That's a good call. I have found Addco very helpful in the past. I'm pretty sure I would have noticed that when I installed my 7/8" bar, but now I'm curious, so I'll go check later........ when the garage warms up a tad. Actually, thinking of it, I reused the mount kit from the original bar. I have the newer kit still packaged, so I'll check that one too.

 

[7mach1]

After reading previous post y’all have me worried… while connecting the rear spring plates to the frame for a 7/8” bar, will drill and tapping the frame not be enough to hold the bolts without the inside welded nuts (they did tighten down)? Or should I start over using the U-bolts? Thanks 

 

[Kilgon]

After reading previous post y’all have me worried… while connecting the rear spring plates to the frame for a 7/8” bar, will drill and tapping the frame not be enough to hold the bolts without the inside welded nuts (they did tighten down)? Or should I start over using the U-bolts? Thanks 

I would not trust doing that.  The material is not thick enough. The rule of thumb for threading steel is the material should be as thick as a nut for that bolt size unless the material is of a softer metal in which case it would need to thicker. I would go with the u bolts.  They work nice and are easy to insert.

 

[7mach1]

I would not trust doing that.  The material is not thick enough. The rule of thumb for threading steel is the material should be as thick as a nut for that bolt size unless the material is of a softer metal in which case it would need to thicker. I would go with the u bolts.  They work nice and are easy to insert.

Good info. Thanks Kilgon!

So, do the u bolts go inside the box frame or through it?  Also, how much clearance do you have at your tires?

 

[Kilgon]

Good info. Thanks Kilgon!

So, do the u bolts go inside the box frame or through it?  Also, how much clearance do you have at your tires?

The u bolts go inside the frame.  You will use the first hole in the frame and will need to drill a second hole for the u bolts. I don't know what make of sway bar you have but with the 7/8" Addco the brackets will need to have their holes elongated a little for the u the bolt to fit.  You can get the u bolts from Addco.

I have about 1/2" clearance at the tires.  I haven't driven the car yet so I don't know if there will be a rubbing issue or not. I should be ok but need to road test to verify.   I am running 275/60R15 on the back. If I have a issue I will try to go with a spacer first.  If that doesn't work I'll have to look at replacing the tires with a narrower width. 

 

[Stanglover]

Going back to the gap in the bushing. reading the latest posts, reminded me to look at the new bushing I got with the replacement 7/8" bar. These appear to be Urethane rather than rubber as they are quite hard. Anyway, the split is not horizontal as yours appears to be, but at an angle. The ID is right on 7/8". ( I stuck a screwdriver in to open up the split for the pic)

 

[Kilgon]

Going back to the gap in the bushing. reading the latest posts, reminded me to look at the new bushing I got with the replacement 7/8" bar. These appear to be Urethane rather than rubber as they are quite hard. Anyway, the split is not horizontal as yours appears to be, but at an angle. The ID is right on 7/8". ( I stuck a screwdriver in to open up the split for the pic)

View attachment 57435

Thanks for posting.  I actually just replaced the bushings today with the new 7/8" ones. They fit fine and I no longer have a gap.   They also appear to be Urethane and have the slice on an angle as in your picture.  I read on Addco's site that some of the bushings may not come precut.  It just says to take a knife and make a cut but it does not specify where at.  Evidently it's not too important to how straight the cut is or where it is located.     

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks for posting.  I actually just replaced the bushings today with the new 7/8" ones. They fit fine and I no longer have a gap.   They also appear to be Urethane and have the slice on an angle as in your picture.  I read on Addco's site that some of the bushings may not come precut.  It just says to take a knife and make a cut but it does not specify where at.  Evidently it's not too important to how straight the cut is or where it is located.     

Well, I guess I'm a bit late to the party, but at least I showed up!! So glad you got that sorted. As Addco thought, the wrong ones must have been packed by mistake. 

Another job done.