What product to use on urethane bumper and how to repair slight scratches.

[sdstang]

have a very shallow crack in my bumper along with a few chunks the size of 1/8 in cube. Otherwise its perfect. There are lots of products out there and I'm not sure which to order as I'm not sure exactly what type of urethane we have. Any suggestion would be helpful.

Also,

on the front there are two small "maybe cracks". If you took a razor blade and slightly went alone for about an inch, that's how I would describe them. Not sure if we should open them up ad fill them or leave then alone?

-Jim

 

[Austin Vert]

Hi Jim,

The urethane bar has a high degree of flex to start off with. What ever paint is on there now has not had enough flex in it to cope, hence the cracks appearing. So basically -

To refinish, you have two ways of approaching the job. The first and proper way is to strip and remove all existing paint down to the urathane, then use a suitable 2 Pack primer/ filler, and add flex aid agent to it, or buy a primer / filler that has flex pre mixed in. Once cured, spot fill those chunks with a 2 Pack wiping putty, and spot reprime if desired. Then apply your color coats. Base coat will need no flex aid added, but the 2 Pack clear should have flex added to it. Solid color top coat 2Pack enamels will need flex added as well.

The second way is not the best way, but the easiest way to get you out of trouble. The drawback here will be that there is no guarantee how long the new paint you put over your problem existing paint will last before more cracking probs show up. So,first, dry detail sand the cracks and chunks,so the 2 Pack wiping putty will key in, and back fill with 2 Pack wiping putty. Then spot prime those areas with 2Pack primer/ filler with flex added. You could re prime the whole bar if you wanted to, or needs be. If you go that way, make sure you sand the entire bar before you prime. Then apply your color coats adding flex again to the clear coat or solid color top coat, which ever applies to you. Base coat needs no flex added to it. That should bring a good finished result, but lasting qualities is the unknown thing here.

Greg.

 

[mrmach1]

I've refinished mine twice and I followed Austin's advise pretty much to the letter the second time and so far it's looking good. The first time I didn't use enough flex and it had fine cracks after only a few months. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

 

[Qcode351mach]

have a very shallow crack in my bumper along with a few chunks the size of 1/8 in cube. Otherwise its perfect. There are lots of products out there and I'm not sure which to order as I'm not sure exactly what type of urethane we have. Any suggestion would be helpful.

Also,

on the front there are two small "maybe cracks". If you took a razor blade and slightly went alone for about an inch, that's how I would describe them. Not sure if we should open them up ad fill them or leave then alone?

-Jim

Jim

http://www.semproducts.com/automotive-plastic-repair/dual-mixtm-problem-plastic-repair-material

Fix the maybe cracks NOW they will come back to haunt you..As Greg said strip bumper..v groove the cracks determine if they need a reinforcement patch on the back side if not then move on repair using the sem material

 

[sdstang]

Greg, Scott,

Currently the bumper is down to bare urethane. I'm using SPI epoxy as a first coat and a light SPI 2K urethane primer as a second coat. The owner of the company (Barry) said both products are flexible but said to go light on the 2K primer. He said not to use adhesion promoter or flex agent and scuff with gray scuff pad prior to epoxy. Does that sound ok? I already have both products but wonder if I should look at another option. Ill have body guy v-out the cracks and use the SEM product at Scott suggested. The whole body and paint thing has me stressed out as its out of my control(im doing most everything else on my restore) and is costing a fortune. Can't wait for it to be over!

Thanks again for both of your inputs!

-Jim

 

[Qcode351mach]

Greg, Scott,

Currently the bumper is down to bare urethane. I'm using SPI epoxy as a first coat and a light SPI 2K urethane primer as a second coat. The owner of the company (Barry) said both products are flexible but said to go light on the 2K primer. He said not to use adhesion promoter or flex agent and scuff with gray scuff pad prior to epoxy. Does that sound ok? I already have both products but wonder if I should look at another option. Ill have body guy v-out the cracks and use the SEM product at Scott suggested. The whole body and paint thing has me stressed out as its out of my control(im doing most everything else on my restore) and is costing a fortune. Can't wait for it to be over!

Thanks again for both of your inputs!

-Jim

Listen to Barry ! As far as paint goes I would ask the paint rep/tech for the brand of base coat or system your using for their APPROVED spec sheet process sheet on semi rigid plastics /bumpers..Our bumpers are not really that flexible like say a newer car but are more semi-rigid. Follow the paint manufacturers spec sheets no second guessing & you know it's done right. As a example heres some glasurit tech sheets http://www.glasurit.com/uae/glasurit-special-refinishing-processes

http://techinfo.glasurit.com/en_UK/PKW/index.html

http://www.glasurit.com/uae

 

[sdstang]

Greg, Scott,

Currently the bumper is down to bare urethane. I'm using SPI epoxy as a first coat and a light SPI 2K urethane primer as a second coat. The owner of the company (Barry) said both products are flexible but said to go light on the 2K primer. He said not to use adhesion promoter or flex agent and scuff with gray scuff pad prior to epoxy. Does that sound ok? I already have both products but wonder if I should look at another option. Ill have body guy v-out the cracks and use the SEM product at Scott suggested. The whole body and paint thing has me stressed out as its out of my control(im doing most everything else on my restore) and is costing a fortune. Can't wait for it to be over!

Thanks again for both of your inputs!

-Jim

Listen to Barry ! As far as paint goes I would ask the paint rep/tech for the brand of base coat or system your using for their APPROVED spec sheet process sheet on semi rigid plastics /bumpers..Our bumpers are not really that flexible like say a newer car but are more semi-rigid. Follow the paint manufacturers spec sheets no second guessing & you know it's done right. As a example heres some glasurit tech sheets http://www.glasurit.com/uae/glasurit-special-refinishing-processes

http://techinfo.glasurit.com/en_UK/PKW/index.html

http://www.glasurit.com/uae

Great info, thanks again for all the input!

 

[MeZapU]

I've used this product on my SVO's urethane bumpers with great results. Its nice, small and reasonably cheap.

http://www.semproducts.com/automotive-plastic-repair/mini-max-bumper-repair

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151286039552?lpid=82&chn=ps

 

[Qcode351mach]

Jim,

Everything you need to know:

http://www.semproducts.com/manage/html/public/content/techsheets/SEM%20RAB-2%20Training%20Manual.pdf

 

[sdstang]

Greg, Scott,

Currently the bumper is down to bare urethane. I'm using SPI epoxy as a first coat and a light SPI 2K urethane primer as a second coat. The owner of the company (Barry) said both products are flexible but said to go light on the 2K primer. He said not to use adhesion promoter or flex agent and scuff with gray scuff pad prior to epoxy. Does that sound ok? I already have both products but wonder if I should look at another option. Ill have body guy v-out the cracks and use the SEM product at Scott suggested. The whole body and paint thing has me stressed out as its out of my control(im doing most everything else on my restore) and is costing a fortune. Can't wait for it to be over!

Thanks again for both of your inputs!

-Jim

Listen to Barry ! As far as paint goes I would ask the paint rep/tech for the brand of base coat or system your using for their APPROVED spec sheet process sheet on semi rigid plastics /bumpers..Our bumpers are not really that flexible like say a newer car but are more semi-rigid. Follow the paint manufacturers spec sheets no second guessing & you know it's done right. As a example heres some glasurit tech sheets http://www.glasurit.com/uae/glasurit-special-refinishing-processes

http://techinfo.glasurit.com/en_UK/PKW/index.html

http://www.glasurit.com/uae

Great info, thanks again for all the info.