Windshield exterior trim

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Joined
Jun 10, 2016
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Location
England
My Car
1971 Mustang Grande
I want to remove the bright work/chrome from around the windshield front and rear to get them polished up for the concourse restoration.

Are there any pitfalls when removing?

Is there a special tool to remove trim?

Does the trim form part of the seal to keep water out?

 
It comes off with a door panel removal type tool, but get plastic one as to not damage the paint or body.

It is held on with clips. The trim is not part of the window seal. Be careful when removing as it is pretty thin and bends easily. Not sure how much you will be able to polish it. I believe it is anodized aluminum and not stainless.

https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-pcs-Upholstery/dp/B00LUPOSD4

the middle tool in the picture works best if you can find something similar.

 
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Correct. It is anodized aluminum. People on this forum recommend oven cleaner. If you polish off the anodize coating, you will get corrosion over time.

If you are going for concourse remove with a panel tool and patience, then have it polished and re-anodized at a local trim refurbish shop. (There are shops out there that will do that for you. You might as well send your drip rail moldings out while you are at it.

kcmash

 
It comes off with a door panel removal type tool, but get plastic one as to not damage the paint or body.

It is held on with clips. The trim is not part of the window seal. Be careful when removing as it is pretty thin and bends easily. Not sure how much you will be able to polish it. I believe it is anodized aluminum and not stainless.

https://www.amazon.com/Panel-Removal-Tool-pcs-Upholstery/dp/B00LUPOSD4

the middle tool in the picture works best if you can find something similar.
Thank You Jason. I think i am going to buy this larger set as its not much more expensive for 16 pieces.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16PC-CAR-AUTO-BODY-MOULDING-DOOR-TRIM-CLIP-REMOVER-PANEL-REMOVAL-TOOLS-TOOL-KIT-/231826705072?hash=item35f9f2cab0:g:HqEAAOSwX~dWp5dk

I have read in other posts that the clips are delicate and easy to break plus those clips are not available to buy

 
Correct. It is anodized aluminum. People on this forum recommend oven cleaner. If you polish off the anodize coating, you will get corrosion over time.

If you are going for concourse remove with a panel tool and patience, then have it polished and re-anodized at a local trim refurbish shop. (There are shops out there that will do that for you. You might as well send your drip rail moldings out while you are at it.

kcmash
The bumpers are going to be re-chromed. The windshield trim will go same place for the work needed.

 
Correct. It is anodized aluminum. People on this forum recommend oven cleaner. If you polish off the anodize coating, you will get corrosion over time.

If you are going for concourse remove with a panel tool and patience, then have it polished and re-anodized at a local trim refurbish shop. (There are shops out there that will do that for you. You might as well send your drip rail moldings out while you are at it.

kcmash
The bumpers are going to be re-chromed. The windshield trim will go same place for the work needed.
Remember these are not chromed. It is a very difference process to anodize aluminum than it is to chrome something. I would be sure to check with them first. The anodized finish looks different than chrome too.

That looks like a good price on that tool kit and yes the clips are easy to break. Broke one off when having my windshield replaced. Luckily the guy doing it had one in his bin that matched. He specializes in classics and said he searches junk yards all the time for clips and collects them.

 
Not that I am aware of. Just start at one of the joints and slowly work your way around going just a little at a time. It took two of us close to 45 min to get it off mine without damage.

 
We did the trim and the body. Hence the use of a plastic tool to prevent paint damage. we started at the top passenger side and one worked down the side while the other worked across the top then down the other side.

 
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So the tool is inserted between trim and body & lift gently or insert tool between trim and glass & lift gently?
NOOOOOOO

You gently work the tool under the trim until you feel it catch a clip

The pointed end of the tool is used to pull the clip away from the trim and thus will release it

If you pry on it you will bend it

I have new clips from AMK

 
Pegleg, all good advice here, and to be used with one LARGE helping of patience. You don't want to damage your moldings because if you were to find some NOS pieces you would think you were buying gold! And from what I've heard the repo moldings are about as useless as using the foil from a gum wrapper.

If you want to search for the retainers by number or cross reference them in someone's catalog, the Ford part number is D1AZ-6542413-B. If you find that any of the small posts that the retainer anchored to are broken or missing, there are small screw and rivet kits available that can be used to replace any of the damaged or missing studs. Don (OMS) also sells a molding retainer kit (F-3503-all body styles windshield) and (F-3623-coupe rear glass). He may also have some used moldings if you do happen to have one that is damaged . Don is a 71-73 enthusiast and knows these cars front to back so I would sure give him a call.

 
All,

Here is the correct tool to remove the molding from the clips.

K-D Tools 2038 Window Molding Remover

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https://www.amazon.com/Tools-2038-Window-Molding-Remover/dp/B0002SRCN8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476789030&sr=8-3&keywords=ford+trim+removal+tool

I have one and it works!

mustang7173 :bravo:

 
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