Austin Vert's Trunk Alighnment Trick

Hi to all,

Don't know if this topic has been covered before in relation to what i've done but here goes anyway.

I've noticed over the last few years from studying the trunks of many '71-'73's, that the alighnments of the trunks had a common problem to them, especially the verts.That prob concerned the back edge along the trunk rising up to the right, and ended up being higher than the quarter panel it meets up to.I believe that this is a common factory issue in relation to trunk hinge design, torsion rod, and center locking mechanism.

I tried to rectify this alighnment problem on my '73 Vert as it was there when i bought the car back in 2011, but discovered that by adjusting and tweaking around with the two hinges and lock, it did not solve this problem of rising to the right properly at all.

I then came up with an idea of using two adjustable bumper stops that would be positioned under the back edge of the trunk lid at each end facing down. By adjusting the bumper stops in terms of how far they protrude down, you can then accurately alighn how high or low the trunk lid sits on the left and right hand sides when the lid is closed.This setup does not impede in any way as to how the trunk lid opens and closes. The action remains easy and true. I chose to mount the stops on the lid instead of the trunk surround base for practical and asthetic looks as well. My system also gives an added strength and rigidity to the whole lid when closed, and this is a bonus for strength and stability when you carry a rear spoiler.

Firstly, mark out the positioning where the stops are to be located. Drill the two holes. Then select the correct size tap and die piece to tap a thread into the holes drilled. Your bumper stops should then be able to screw into your threaded holes.Adjust, and use the locking nuts to lock in the stops to the desired adjustment you want to end up with.This adjustment process is one of trial and error, until the lid is sitting at the finished heights you want left and right. It will pay to try out first on scrap sheet metal the correct size of drill bit and choice of tap piece to use.The two lasts pics show the lid now in correct alighnment, but also now show the black stipes out of alighnment with lid to quarter panels.The stipes were of course on the car when i bought it with the bad trunk alignment issue, and now shows how far the trunk was out left and right.

This solved my alighnment problem and the system works very well.

BTW - That's all original factory paint you see under the lid and outside as well. Not what i would call a first class finish by any stretch me thinks!

Many thanks,

Greg.

I like it. Seems like it would take care of the problem.

John J

OK...but does the trunk weatherstrip still hold and prevent water from intruding?

OK...but does the trunk weatherstrip still hold and prevent water from intruding?

Click to expand...

Hi R,

Good point! To be honest, i still have the original trunk rubber on my car, which through age and compression would be sitting fairly flat.

To date, i have not done a water test around the trunk area, so i can't give feedback on your question. However, i possess a new rubber and was going to install it when i did my respray down the track. That new rubber will of course be more thicker and fuller, and i imagine would take up any so called gapping problems when the lid would be closed.

But yes, you're right, a water test when the new rubber will be on is the only way to go for potential final alighnment issues. I baby my car, and never let rain get on the car. I also never wash my car in the conventional way with water, bucket and hose. I'm a bit funny that way!

Greg.

I asked because what caught my eye was the lack of weatherstripping on the underside of the trunk.

Another aspect of a bad weather seal is that exhaust fumes can enter the trunk as well. Good luck with your project: I like the idea!

This is a good idea, since i purchased my Mach 1 the trunk lid on the right side sticks way up in the air, i havent had time to play with it to see why it sticks up so high yet, but this could very well fix my issue as well. Thanks for the write up and pics.

This is a good idea, since i purchased my Mach 1 the trunk lid on the right side sticks way up in the air, i havent had time to play with it to see why it sticks up so high yet, but this could very well fix my issue as well. Thanks for the write up and pics.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your feedback. If you end up trying it out, let us know how you got on. Try all your adjustments first and if all fails, my system should help you out.

Greg.

I asked because what caught my eye was the lack of weatherstripping on the underside of the trunk.

Another aspect of a bad weather seal is that exhaust fumes can enter the trunk as well. Good luck with your project: I like the idea!

Click to expand...

R,

You've got me curious about your comment on weatherstriping on the underside of the trunk. I have not seen this done in my travels so far, and was wondering what that's all about. Any feedback on that would be welcome. Also, i don't get any exhaust fumes or smells that i'm aware of from my current setup.

Regards,

Greg.

Thanks John, glad you like it.

Greg.

chalk your weatherstrip and close your trunk. If when you open it, the chalk transfer to the trunk lid isn't visible you will get exhaust fume leaks. Water leaks may not occur as easily due to the drainage designed into the system, but a good chalk transfer usually means you are in good shape.

This is a good idea, since i purchased my Mach 1 the trunk lid on the right side sticks way up in the air, i havent had time to play with it to see why it sticks up so high yet, but this could very well fix my issue as well. Thanks for the write up and pics.

Click to expand...

Thanks for your feedback. If you end up trying it out, let us know how you got on. Try all your adjustments first and if all fails, my system should help you out.

Greg.

I asked because what caught my eye was the lack of weatherstripping on the underside of the trunk.

Another aspect of a bad weather seal is that exhaust fumes can enter the trunk as well. Good luck with your project: I like the idea!

Click to expand...

R,

You've got me curious about your comment on weatherstriping on the underside of the trunk. I have not seen this done in my travels so far, and was wondering what that's all about. Any feedback on that would be welcome. Also, i don't get any exhaust fumes or smells that i'm aware of from my current setup.

Regards,

Greg.

Thanks John, glad you like it.

Greg.

Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the 71-73 trunks, but earlier trunks. The earlier trunks had the weatherstripping on the trunk lid (underside). Do the 71-73's have the weatherstripping on the car side of the trunk?

chalk your weatherstrip and close your trunk. If when you open it, the chalk transfer to the trunk lid isn't visible you will get exhaust fume leaks. Water leaks may not occur as easily due to the drainage designed into the system, but a good chalk transfer usually means you are in good shape.

Click to expand...

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the tip with the chalk. I will give that a go and see what the results bring me.

Greg.

R,

The '71-'73's don't have any rubber striping attached to the trunk lid as such,but is mounted in a dedicated channel on the trunk body base.(car side)

I assume from what you're saying, that the earlier Mustang's mounted the trunk rubber on the underside of the lid.

Greg.

Hi to all,

Don't know if this topic has been covered before in relation to what i've done but here goes anyway.

I've noticed over the last few years from studying the trunks of many '71-'73's, that the alighnments of the trunks had a common problem to them, especially the verts.That prob concerned the back edge along the trunk rising up to the right, and ended up being higher than the quarter panel it meets up to.I believe that this is a common factory issue in relation to trunk hinge design, torsion rod, and center locking mechanism.

I tried to rectify this alighnment problem on my '73 Vert as it was there when i bought the car back in 2011, but discovered that by adjusting and tweaking around with the two hinges and lock, it did not solve this problem of rising to the right properly at all.

I then came up with an idea of using two adjustable bumper stops that would be positioned under the back edge of the trunk lid at each end facing down. By adjusting the bumper stops in terms of how far they protrude down, you can then accurately alighn how high or low the trunk lid sits on the left and right hand sides when the lid is closed.This setup does not impede in any way as to how the trunk lid opens and closes. The action remains easy and true. I chose to mount the stops on the lid instead of the trunk surround base for practical and asthetic looks as well. My system also gives an added strength and rigidity to the whole lid when closed, and this is a bonus for strength and stability when you carry a rear spoiler.

Firstly, mark out the positioning where the stops are to be located. Drill the two holes. Then select the correct size tap and die piece to tap a thread into the holes drilled. Your bumper stops should then be able to screw into your threaded holes.Adjust, and use the locking nuts to lock in the stops to the desired adjustment you want to end up with.This adjustment process is one of trial and error, until the lid is sitting at the finished heights you want left and right. It will pay to try out first on scrap sheet metal the correct size of drill bit and choice of tap piece to use.The two lasts pics show the lid now in correct alighnment, but also now show the black stipes out of alighnment with lid to quarter panels.The stipes were of course on the car when i bought it with the bad trunk alignment issue, and now shows how far the trunk was out left and right.

This solved my alighnment problem and the system works very well.

BTW - That's all original factory paint you see under the lid and outside as well. Not what i would call a first class finish by any stretch me thinks!

Many thanks,

Greg.

Click to expand...

Greg, nice write up on the alignment. My trunk lid has the same issue and I will try this fix. I like the way you secured the bolts on the spoiler. What did you use for the "sleeves" under the washers and nuts?

Greg, nice write up on the alignment. My trunk lid has the same issue and I will try this fix. I like the way you secured the bolts on the spoiler. What did you use for the "sleeves" under the washers and nuts?

Thankyou Sir,

I think you will find you get a good result.

Ahhhhhhhhh yes the spoiler bolts. Would you believe i went to the hardware shop and bought a small length of pine dowel with the correct diameter or thickness. With the spoiler bolt threads protruding through, i calculated the length i would need for each protruding bolt, and cut the dowel to the correct sizes.I then drilled, with the help of a drill press, a small diameter hole through the center of each dowel piece lenghtways. I then angle sanded each cut length of dowel to the correct angle profile to match the shape of the underside of the trunk lid members.(one end only of each cut length.)

After i satisfied myself that the sanded angles were the correct shape, i spraypainted the lengths of dowel matt black. They act as spacers between the underside of the steel trunk lid and the nuts and washers. I have since popped little rubbers on the ends of the protruding threads, to act as protectors. You could do the same technique with hollow metal piping, and that would work as well i think.

Hope that helps you.

Greg.