Phospate and oil/Parkerizing

I have been meaning to do something with my hood latch and hood hinges before they go back on. Someone painted them black, and according to all the stuff I have read it was not Ford. The paint (as was all the paint in the engine compartment) was flaking and bad. I knew I was going to bead blast them, but then what?

I read that cast blast and some other paints do a decent job of appearing to be the phosphate and oil treatment that they got originally. However, on hinges and latches, I know that the paint is going to chip away.

I did some research and found DIY phosphating by Palmetto Enterprises.

http://www.palmettoenterprises.net/Palmetto_Enterprises/-Welcome-.html

I ordered a pint of the Zinc Phosphate (enough to make 4 gallons of solution) and gathered my materials. Basically you heat the solution to 190-200 degrees F and then dip it in for a while and watch it bubble. It worked really really well! I am happy with the look of the part. Now I need to blast my hood hinges and do them.

Here are a few pics of the progression from painted, to blasted, to plated. Last picture shows it near the satin black of the engine bay to get an idea of the contrast. I have to say it looks even better in person, the camera (flash or no flash) has a hard time conveying the color, but it looks *right*.

As it came out of the car:



After bead blast:



After Phosphating:



Contrast to the car:



~Jim

Very nice work and thank you for sharing your results. I read about the process in Mustang Monthly this month and will be anxious to try it out on my car as well

Looks pretty dang sharp, Jim. How much is that pint?

Doc

Looks good! I may have to give that a try!

Looks pretty dang sharp, Jim. How much is that pint?

Doc

Click to expand...

It is $20.50 a pint, plus shipping. Shipping seems to vary as I think there are some chemical charges involved. Shipping for me to Ohio was $9. Remember that pint makes you 4 gallons of stuff, and it is reusable. If you have a mustang buddy or a club in the area splitting the cost and having a "Parkerizing Party" would make great sense.

Now I am trying to determine what else gets phospahted. I think most of the underhood sheetmetal bolts do. This is too much fun to stop.

~Jim

Looks real good. Read the same article in Mustang Monthly.

Jim

honestly.. it´s fantastic!! it maybe similar process than the one using in guns, dont you think??

Doesn´t it need any clear coat or something to protect from rust??

Thanks for this tip!!

What did you use to "boil" the solution and do you have a pot big enough to fit the hinges?

Can you dip half of the hinge and then flip it over?

What did you use to "boil" the solution and do you have a pot big enough to fit the hinges?

Can you dip half of the hinge and then flip it over?

Click to expand...

I did the boil method, 190-200 degrees so just below boiling. I had a square stainless pan (non-kitchen use) that was perfect size for the latch. After much debating I went ahead and did it in the kitchen with the vent hood fan on high and the windows open. There really was no noticeable smell (even according to the wife). That said it occurred to me later that the side burner on the outdoor grille would be perfect!

I am trying to figure out how to do the hinges still. I may be able to collapse them small enough after removing the springs. If not, I may go to a plastic tub with a submersible heater. I'll let you know.

The oil still needs applied, many use a wipe of clean motor oil and reapply twice a year or so (I always have some to clean up during an oil change, so that might be a good interval).

I just realized my Mustangs Monthly subscription has slipped, as I do not recall seeing this in there. What issue was it in? On the MM subject….

Has anyone collected all of the Jeff Ford Lazarus articles in one tidy package? I have most of the issues, but did miss one or two during a similar subscription lapse. I would love to have just those articles listed out and put on a CD for reference...

EDIT: I did a search on the Mustang Monthly Lazarus project and they have a page listing most of the articles here(you do have to wait throught the ad). Now I just need to see if I have them all. Major hi-jack of my own thread here. Maybe this is worthy of its own.

Full article pg 2 here:

http://mustangmonthly.automotive.com/44010/mump-0209-1972-custom-yellow-mach-1-hardtop/ford-1972-mustang-mach-1-project.html#12996947975791&DISPLAYINTERSTITIAL_15

List from the article:

November 1996 pg. 20 Street Sleeper Cleveland

December 1997 pg. 59 Classic Cleveland Buildup

April 1998 pg. 42 Quarter-Panel Install

June 1998 pg. 54 Chemical Strip and De-rust

October 1998 pg. 24 Rear Axle-Housing Detail

January 1998 pg. 31 351 Cleveland Detailing

March 1999 pg. 80 Tilt Column Detail

May 1999 pg. 46 Taillight Housing

June 1999 pg. 58 Four-Speed Detailing

July 1999 pg. 73 Wheels and Tires

August 1999 pg. 56 Driveshaft Rebuild

October 1999 pg. 62 Prep for Paint

January 2000 pg. 66 Front Disc Brakes

February 2000 pg. 68 Suspension Detail

April 2000 pg. 43 Headliner Install

May 2000 pg. 66 How to: Glue in Glass

August 2000 pg. 72 How to: Roller Cam

October 2000 pg. 60 Engine Bay Detailing

November 2000 pg. 64 Dash Panel Assembly

December 2000 pg. 78 Door Assembly

January 2001 pg. 59 Interior Install

March 2001 pg. 55 SportsRoof Trunk

June 2001 pg. 72 Sport Stripes Detail

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Continued my Mustang Monthly search, and found that the phosphating article is online, and well done...here it is:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1103_how_to_apply_phosphate_and_oil_coating/index.html

72Q-code,

I have all of the Lazarus articles and have set them aside for my resto. If you would like to PM me with your address I can put them on a disc for you. I will be traveling next week so it will need to be the week after that. I also explored the parkerizing and found several gun related websites that sell the same materials a little bit cheaper tham palmeto. I will be doing the same treatment to several of my parts. If you are an MCA member you can go to their website and download the judging rules for your year and it will indicate what pieces are oil phosphate treated. I plan to follow those for my restoration. Thanks for the advice last week regarding my weld cleanup questions. I have started on it this past weekend after scraping a pile of undercoating off with a heat gun. Next is to apply Rust Bullett and Lizardskin the interior floor pan and wheelhouses.

72Q-code,

I have all of the Lazarus articles and have set them aside for my resto. If you would like to PM me with your address I can put them on a disc for you. I will be traveling next week so it will need to be the week after that.

Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch! I have most of them marked and dogeared in the magazines. I am going to inventory what I have and determine which ones I am missing, it should only be a couple if I am. That will likely take me a week or so, so no problems...I'll be in touch

~Jim

72Q-code,

I have all of the Lazarus articles and have set them aside for my resto. If you would like to PM me with your address I can put them on a disc for you. I will be traveling next week so it will need to be the week after that. I also explored the parkerizing and found several gun related websites that sell the same materials a little bit cheaper tham palmeto. I will be doing the same treatment to several of my parts. If you are an MCA member you can go to their website and download the judging rules for your year and it will indicate what pieces are oil phosphate treated. I plan to follow those for my restoration. Thanks for the advice last week regarding my weld cleanup questions. I have started on it this past weekend after scraping a pile of undercoating off with a heat gun. Next is to apply Rust Bullett and Lizardskin the interior floor pan and wheelhouses.

Click to expand...

Why can't we post these articles on the WIKI tab?

Rocketfoot?????

I would be glad to if I could figure that out and dedicate sometime to it. After next week I may have the time right now between family and work I am lucky to get a chance to even look at the stang. I will see what I can accomplish, but I do have every article.

So... can we make like a recipy in order to have this information in one sheet? I think Rocketfoot will be glad to post something as usefull as this, and for the future... if all of us can make this kind of tweeks clear for anybody to read it and we have a Data session where to post them, our site is going to be even much more useful

Here is an article form the 429 mustang site. It is super helpful about the finish on these underhood parts.

http://429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com/underhood_component_paint.htm

Ray

72Q-code,

Nice process that keeps it in the original coating. I went the ceramic coating route. Looks really good. Great information for all.

mustang7173

Obviously this question of correct finish on hood latch and hinges has been ongoing for several years. Good information, but can I get this product in Canada?

This process like some have said has been used for a hundred years on guns. I did my parts at home also. I have not read the 429 site info but Ford used this coating anywhere they did not want paint that could cause a sticking of the parts. Painted hood latches don't work right as well as hinges. It is a lubricant, rust prevent and wear surface all in one. On the inside of the car the gas pedal is also phosphate and the parking brake with some paint on the pedal arm. There are some bolts scattered around with it also. WD-40 every now and then is all that is need to help with rust but should not rust unless you get salt or corrosive materials on it.