'73 fuel tank removal

Hey, guys.

I am in the process of removing my fuel tank.  It's been disconnected everywhere but appears to be held in by the fill pipe.

How many pieces is the fill pipe?  It starts at the back of the car.  I took out the six screws in the rear panel.  Then it passes through the trunk floor.  It is surrounded by a rubber gasket.  Where it joins the tank, does it unbolt or otherwise disconnect?  Does the pipe disconnect from the back panel?  I keep hearing 'cut it' but then a new one will have to be attached, correct?  And if a new one has to be attached, an old one should be disconnectable without cutting, correct?

Thanks for any info.

You SHOULD NOT have to cut the filler tube, but yes, remove it.

1) Remove the gas cap

2) Work the filler pipe loose and remove through the tail light panel

3) Remove all connections to tank,  Sending unit harness, fuel inlet, vapor return hose

4)  I like a floor jack under the tank when removing the retainer straps

5 the tank should drop.

There may be some sound deadener on top of the tank making it stick a bit.

The fill pipe is one piece. The flange on the tail light panel has several screws, remove them, including the gas cap if you have the flip down cap. Remove the rubber seal from the trunk floor - four screws, and slid it up a bit. The fill pipe is sealed to the tank with a rubber seal, you may need to spray some WD-40 or similar on it as they stick with age, then it should slide right out with a little effort.

Have done it this summer, while all is mostly said, lubing helps of course, but one thing helps more, is to support the tank so its slightly above its position.

This gives you enough space to align the filler to tank gasket and play a bit without damaging its paint (if its painted) or the tail panel paint.

If its straight in line, you should be able to pull it up while rotating a bit without much WD-40/efforts.

If the end of the filler is corroded, inspect the upper part of the tank inside. if rusty, a repro tank like this one

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=327/category_id=135/mode=prod/prd327.htm

is affordable and a safe investment.

oh and when you put it back, clean and grease the bolts/studs that holds the straps, you'll thank yourself in many years from now

I just replaced my tank last year on my 71 Mach. All great advice from the other members.

I'll add what I did to mine though. The tank I bought was from Rock Auto. I find them great to buy from, better prices for the same things.

Tank; Spectra Premium F32A. (8409.91.0090) This is turn-coat steel, so it won't rust or be affected by Ethanol any time soon.

Fuel Sending Unit; Dorman RB 692-232 (9206.10.0099)This is the best one out there imo. The Spectra one listed is incorrect unless the problem has been fixed. I also bought a new mechanical fuel pump; Delphi MF0007 (8413.30.0090)

My straps were still in as-new condition, but I did buy some 3/8th" X 4" Galvanized carriage bolts and nuts, so no more rusting there either.

Also buy new rubber seals and gaskets. The tank should come with new seal rings and seals for the vent and the sending unit.

Here are a couple of pics of how I added thin solid rubber pads to the tank for anti vibration. Might give you an idea.

Oh! The picture of the fuel line is a better part of the old line. While you're at it, I'd recommend replacing the old line with 3/8" SS. I bought a pre-bent line kit, but it still needed work to get it to fit and connect up as it should. To be honest, it could have been damaged in shipping as it was not protected by packaging if you get my meaning.

Let me know  if I can help further.

Geoff.

Geoff, where did you get the fuel tank vapor hose and how long is it? Thanks!

Geoff, where did you get the fuel tank vapor hose and how long is it? Thanks!

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 Good point. ALL my rubber hoses were replaced with Ethanol resistant Fuel Injector hose. It's expensive compared to ordinary fuel line, but it won't break down internally. I did find that gas on the outside will cause some black to rub off. I actually did not replace the 5/16 steel vent tube at the time because I didn't think it needed it. The 5/16" F.I. hose is about 2 feet long if I remember plus a piece that goes to the vapour canister. Also I only  use pinch (or squeeze) clamps, not those damn gear clamps. Those are for emergencies only imo.

If you read an older post of mine on the tank replacement and one on the new 3/8" fuel line to the carb from the new pump, I went over this in some detail. I can repost the pics if that helps anyone. Don't ask me to find and link them!!!

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

One thing not mentioned, or I did not see was that inside the vapor return hickey on top is a foam filter that falls apart. you can replace with piece of a foam filter for like a lawn mower air cleaner or use some stainless steel scrubber pad. It is there so liquid does not get into the system.

When I took mine off last year I figured it would look horrible inside the tank but it was spotless inside. The pick up filter had fallen apart so I replaced it.

Even replacing all the hose with the ethanol resistant I still use ethanol free fuel.

David

One thing not mentioned, or I did not see was that inside the vapor return hickey on top is a foam filter that falls apart. you can replace with piece of a foam filter for like a lawn mower air cleaner or use some stainless steel scrubber pad. It is there so liquid does not get into the system.

When I took mine off last year I figured it would look horrible inside the tank but it was spotless inside. The pick up filter had fallen apart so I replaced it.

Even replacing all the hose with the ethanol resistant I still use ethanol free fuel.

David

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  Good point David on the filter material in the vent. I missed that detail.

I too avoid using Ethanol fuel, use Shell 91, but at least if I HAVE to fill up with crap gas, I can without too much worry now I have better rubber connections.

Also, I was surprised to find my tank was spotless inside, but then I realized it had already been replaced at some point, so I could have saved that money. The rust I was getting in my fuel filter was evidently from the lines as seen in picture.

On the sender unit pick up filter, I bought one from a vendor, but realized it was junk as it was loose fitting on the tube and fell off. I bought the Dorman sending unit which was an exact repop, but with SS components. Very nice piece imo.