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Classic Auto Air Question

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To those that have installed Classic Auto Air, did you end up removing the factory blower motor?  I know it's not needed, since the Classic Auto Air has it's own blower.  Just wondering if the factory blower needs to be removed for space, or if it's just left in place.

 

Thank you


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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If I recall correctly, the blower motor is mounted on the heater box assembly, so it comes out anyway. Even if it were mounted independently, I can't see a need to keep it. 


1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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In stock form, the heater box and blower are separate.  So when you pull the box, it separates from the blower, which under the dash.  Classic Auto Air does have them paired together however.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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Are you talking about a heater-only car? I don't know about one with factory AC, but I'm sure the heater-only cars had the blower motor mounted to the box. I assumed (perhaps wrongly?) you were adding air to a non-AC car.


1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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In my case, I did have factory AC.  I just went ahead and removed it all.  Motor, housing, etc.  Based on the instructions it appears the stock defrost vent is just about the only thing retained from the stock system.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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My bad... I should have asked before assuming.


1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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I just finished my AC in my Vert - Ice Cold. I didn't replace anything under the dash (Except the blower motor because it was noisy). I just replaced the items under the hood and retained the factory under-dash gear - but my car was factory AC. I'm guessing you bought the full kit? 

AC.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Mezell, Ii will be doing the same thing when I get my kit in, did the installation go smooth?  After install did you have a shop vacuum and charge the system or did you do it?

Edited by jscott

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Not sure who you were asking, but I bought the CAA full conversion for a heater-only car. It works very well, it keeps a black on black car pretty cool inside.


1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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I did it myself. The only original part is the evaporator. They tell me they are better quality than anything modern if you can reuse yours. That came from the CAA techs. Years back I started playing with AC (Compressor changes, Flushes, etc). This was my first full system. Pretty smooth however: I live in the Tampa Area not for from Classic Auto Air. I even drove over there to get parts and talked to the guys. I'm pretty easy going and getting help was difficult. I ended up chasing parts.

Short version, I placed an order from them for pickup and almost a week later they couldn't full it. I cancelled and ordered from NPD (1.5 hours away in Ocala) where it was in stock. Then I decided to replace the condenser and drove over, they were nice enough. I had ordered the liquid line from NPD and they only sent me one part. I drive up on a Saturday to get the second part and realized both ends were male. I spent over an hour trying to figure out how they sell this and it doesn't connect, the NPD guy didn't know either. Ultimately I figured out you also need a $60 quick disconnect valve that has 2 female ends. Nothing in their documentation mentions this and as far as I can tell it doesn't come in the kits. I messaged CAA about this on Monday as well as a couple questions about the amount of R134 and placed a couple calls and never got a reply. I really feel like they should have known since I was working with a senior tech. The no reply was just poor customer service since I also talked to someone on the phone and they gave him a message and they met me in person on the Friday before I did the install. 

Parts wise and functionally I am happy with the quality though. Everything fit fine with the original brackets and pulleys.  My AC is cold. Here's a thing to know, my original air liquid line is 2 pieces. Their reproduction lines are better quality, however it takes 3 pieces, a long line that connects to the evaporator, a short line that connects to the drier and a quick disconnect that connects the lines. About $200 for all 3 parts. 

As far as evacuating the system, I have a good set of gauges, I just rented the vacuum from a local auto parts store for a few days. Its all very low tech. 

My advice, if you do it replace everything under the hood. Don't try to save a buck and re-use anything. The old R12 oils, o-rings and lines wont play well with R134. They expansion valve was $22 from O'Reilly Auto. I just checked, with everything, Tax included I spent just under $1100 doing it myself. I would definitely recommend their kit, but don't rely on good tech support. Anything you really need to know you can find online or ask someone here! Hopefully I wont have to test customer service, but if I do its just a 30 minute drive.  

Good Luck!

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Its basically the same thing, except from original air. And I went cheap and then wanted to change more parts costing me more than the $800. Mine was CAA. I had no trouble doing it in a day. Clean your evaporator with that expensive cleaner from any auto parts store and vacuum it for an hour before filling. Weight your refrigerant at whatever they tell you and you will be fine. Let me know if you have questions. 

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12 hours ago, mezell29 said:

. Clean your evaporator with that expensive cleaner from any auto parts store and vacuum it for an hour before filling. Weight your refrigerant at whatever they tell you and you will be fine. Let me know if you have questions. 

how did you clean the evaporator while it was in the car, I have seen a video like this

 

 

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Posted (edited)

 

Its not the drain you need to clean, its the inside of the evaporator to remove any oil, metal shavings, etc. 

You can buy this at any local parts store -

 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/interdynamics-certified-a-c-pro-power-clean-flush-1.06-lbs.-ca-compliant-ca-1/7010021-p?product_channel=local&store=9511&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=9511&gclid=CjwKCAjw88v3BRBFEiwApwLevTL6Wu5ll4MzLyZ7L4dwm4O_PssOVEeYvPNP9xWN6sEjq5M_2VSu_xoCtUQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Remove your expansion valve and run this through. It has a rubber nozzle you just press up to it. Catch in a pan and dispose of the waste. Run dry compressed air through to dry it out. I let mine sit overnight open to fully dry. About $17 minus any discounts. Advance has 20% right now. One can and its good to go. Ran a can through my condenser because it looked perfect, but realized there was some corrosion inside and just replaced it. Thats how I ended up doing it in pieces. If I could do it over I would have bought the kit like yours and saved. 

I also looked at the pic of your kit - it looks like they have a one piece liquid line so that's a big savings also. 

Edited by mezell29

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sounds easy, have to replace the expansion valve anyway, thanks.

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 I don't suppose anyone knows the correct belt/size I'll need to get the compressor spinning?  I had factory air and am using the original brackets and pulley with the new compressor.  I'm sure I could just use string method to measure, but figured it was easy to ask.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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I don't have the information, but would be interested to hear as well, since I've got the same set-up (but not completely installed yet - just the pulleys & belt).

One trick would be to take a piece of string and wrap it around the path to measure, then get the belt that's the closest in size, and adjust the tension from there.

 

I still can't believe CAA sold me my system thinking that it's better to just add the A/C pulley into the circuit with the power steering pump, rather than just tell me I would need a 3-groove crank pulley, factory idler pulley assembly, and a small adapter bracket that could've been added-in by simply walking across the hall to 'Original Air Group' to get those factory style parts.  Oh well.


Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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As luck would have it, I keep every receipt. I used a Duralast 17550 which is what Autozone showed for the car. Fit perfect. I have the cardboard from around the belt in my hand! That said, that's for use with the idler that attaches to the bracket as my car was factory air. If you are looking for the longer one to use without the idler, I am not sure. 

I agree with you Mister 4x4. As I mentioned my experience was lackluster for sure, however keep in mind that there is a location in TX and FL. FL is original parts, TX is the repro systems, so they have to order from the other one.  While I want happy with the service, the product worked well, I was just on my own to figure it out beyond the provided instructions. 

Edited by mezell29

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48 minutes ago, mezell29 said:

As luck would have it, I keep every receipt. I used a Duralast 17550 which is what Autozone showed for the car. Fit perfect. I have the cardboard from around the belt in my hand! That said, that's for use with the idler that attaches to the bracket as my car was factory air. If you are looking for the longer one to use without the idler, I am not sure. 

I agree with you Mister 4x4. As I mentioned my experience was lackluster for sure, however keep in mind that there is a location in TX and FL. FL is original parts, TX is the repro systems, so they have to order from the other one.  While I want happy with the service, the product worked well, I was just on my own to figure it out beyond the provided instructions. 

Ok, Duralast 17550 it is!  That saves me the hassle of doing the string thing, thank you!

One other question for you and Mister 4x4, what did the bracket they supplied you look like to allow the Sanden compressor to mount?  Literally the last thing I need to do is mount the compressor, I have the factory bracket and pulley in place.  They supplied me a bracket which mounts to the bottom of the factory bracket to allow the Sanden compressor to mount to it, but nothing more.  Based in pictures I have seen, there appears to be a small adapter bracket which attaches the top of the compressor to the pulley assembly.

Thanks!


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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Jason, I believe you are correct (the link won't open for me here at work, but I figured it out by staring at this picture for hours, thinking I could make my own... but then found it on their Original Air Group site and ordered one, too).  You can clearly see the 'bent piece of flat stock' bracket joining both the idler pulley assembly and the Sanden air compressor together - just like with Mezell29's post toward the top of the thread (he has a prettier shiny bolt, though).

61743847_1971_ford_mustang_mach_1engine.thumb.jpg.4153fdc09af47b5d0925f0e7a3b617fa.jpg

And before anybody asks, the article said that the Monte Carlo bar is custom.  I know... I want one, too. 😉


Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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You are correct. If you look at my pic it is there. It came with the kit I bought. I am not sure its needed however. I saw some installs where it looks like they went around the PS pump and didn't have any top brackets at all. Its 4 bolts on the bottom so... I put it on because I had it. 

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Yeah, that bracket is essential to secure the idler pulley to the compressor.  Without it you only have it mounted via the 2 bolts to the water pump housing and it's just not very secure/stable.

It sucks that CAA has a long history of shipping these kits without that bracket and they continue to do so.  You literally cannot properly secure the Sanden compressor to the factory brackets without it.  Also, it took about 3 weeks for me to get my kit after I ordered it.  I had no issue with that, CAA was upfront about the delays due to the pandemic.  But what really stinks currently, I cannot get in contact with CAA at all.  I realize Texas (where they are based) is in a bad way right now.  But they don't answer the phone, reply to voicemails, emails, or messages left via website.  No indication on their website or via phone messaging they are shut down either.  Overall, not very impressed with their service.

Having said all that, I have no idea if/when I might hear back from CAA.  I don't want to simply order the bracket via their website and wait another 3 weeks for it.  So I simply ordered the bracket from CJPP.  Cost me an additional $50, but they had it in stock and I will have it tomorrow via overnight shipping.  I simply want to wrap this project up at this point and enjoy the ride for a bit.

Thanks to all for their assistance!


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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11 hours ago, mezell29 said:

You are correct. If you look at my pic it is there. It came with the kit I bought. I am not sure its needed however. I saw some installs where it looks like they went around the PS pump and didn't have any top brackets at all. Its 4 bolts on the bottom so... I put it on because I had it. 

FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.


1971 Mach 1

351C/FMX, trick flow  heads

Lunati retro roller conversion ("stockish" specs with high lift).

Classic Auto AC

Manual Front Disc conversion

620 lb front and 5-leaf HD rear springs w/Gas-adjust shocks

 

IMG-2977.jpg

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1 hour ago, 71coop said:

FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.

Right, but this really only applies to factory AC cars who have the 3rd AC belt slot on the crank and are using the factory AC brackets and idler.


Jason (71 Mach 1, 351C 4V, 4 Spd. Toploader, Grabber Blue)

 

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