’71 Mach 1 Resto Project

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LOL, did I mention I drove it out of the prep station and over to the body shop across the street, right? I think I might have but just in case. The only issue I had is that it doesn't look like my back lights and brake lights are working, LOL. 🤣

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It is almost like driving my Jeep with the doors off, haha. 😎
BTW, sweet looking orange 5.0 Mustang to the right of the prep station in for repair. I guess they replaced the front end, the young guy who owns it forgot the "they go better than they stop" rule.
 
Nice find, both of my heads were cracked at the 2 and 7 cylinder valve stems but they were able to repair them.
 
Loving the project. New to the cite. Super excited learning what I can do.
Thanks it is coming along, hopefully will be driving it by end of June. It may not have an interior or be fully assembled, but I have driven more incomplete cars as daily drivers back in the day, so nothing new to me, haha. Once I paint the body I will install the headliner and then the windshield and rear glass can go in. After the doors, fenders hood and deck are painted and installed, I can pop in the tail lights and it is a driver. As Freiburger says on Roadkill says, "don't get it right, just get it running".:p
 
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Looks fantastic, I think I sold those parts too cheap😜
I can't remember for sure, maybe you can help me remember, I don't think they looked exactly like they do now when I bought them from you, haha.

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After I got them home, I disassembled the column and cleaned and painted it all black and then reassembled. I checked everything for proper operation and lubed everything as I reassembled. I installed a new turn signal switch, ignition switch and rag joint. The steering wheel was stripped and refinished and new horn pad, emblems, inserts and horn blow switch were installed.

No doubt though 72Mustangsprint, you definitely sold me a great core at a more than fair price, thank you again!

Best off all I checked two things off of my wish list with one road trip, tilt wheel and a rim-blow steering wheel!:D
 
Thanks for sharing your journey. It’s amazing what you are doing and like you can’t wait to see it painted & body panels back on.

Wanted to ask about your turn signal switch you replaced. The replacement switch harness I have is about 5” shorter than the original so I haven’t pulled the column yet because this. I don’t see how the connector is going to reach without possibly messing up the under dash harness. Did you run into this issue on yours or I’m making too big a deal about it?

The switch I got is from Shee-Mar via rockauto. I called the Scott Drake tech support guys to ask how long their harness is and it’s the same, about 18”.

Bob
 
I can't remember for sure, maybe you can help me remember, I don't think they looked exactly like they do now when I bought them from you, haha.

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After I got them home, I disassembled the column and cleaned and painted it all black and then reassembled. I checked everything for proper operation and lubed everything as I reassembled. I installed a new turn signal switch, ignition switch and rag joint. The steering wheel was stripped and refinished and new horn pad, emblems, inserts and horn blow switch were installed.

No doubt though 72Mustangsprint, you definitely sold me a great core at a more than fair price, thank you again!

Best off all I checked two things off of my wish list with one road trip, tilt wheel and a rim-blow steering wheel!:D
Parts def went to a good home 🏡 You left out the best part, you got to hang out with C Walker and me and watch Chris dismantle my Sprint parts coupe in record time 🤣
 
Thanks for sharing your journey. It’s amazing what you are doing and like you can’t wait to see it painted & body panels back on.

Wanted to ask about your turn signal switch you replaced. The replacement switch harness I have is about 5” shorter than the original so I haven’t pulled the column yet because this. I don’t see how the connector is going to reach without possibly messing up the under dash harness. Did you run into this issue on yours or I’m making too big a deal about it?

The switch I got is from Shee-Mar via rockauto. I called the Scott Drake tech support guys to ask how long their harness is and it’s the same, about 18”.

Bob
Hi Bob

I don't know if you have a tilt or standard column, but I have had both in this one car. I purchased both of my turn signal switches from Rock Auto also, so I assume they were the same brand as you have.

I rebuilt and refinished my standard column first and installed all new switches. The non-tilt steering column turn signal switch came with a connector on it. As I recall, the harness on the new switch was a little shorter than the the harness on the switch I replaced. This did not present an issue with plugging in to the dash harness when I installed the standard column. Everything plugged in fine and worked properly. These are the only pics I have of the standard column.

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I purchased a tilt column and then restored and refinished that column. The tilt column turn signal switch was also bought from Rock Auto. That switch comes without a connector and I had to splice in the original connector to the switch. The tilt column turn signal switch you can make the harness as long as you care to by using more of the original switch harness.
A previous owner had obviously replaced the switch at one time and just twisted the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. Obviously, that is not the way that I would recommend it to be done. I used solderless butt connectors and shrink wrapped them to try and make it a safer and more professional appearing repair.

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If you have a standard column and think the new switch harness is going to be too short you could splice the old switch connector and an extra 5" of wire to the end of the new switch harness and get your 5" back. The connector should be fine, unless a short in the past damaged it. the switch is what wears out and fails. Just an idea if you think the shorter harness is going to be an issue.

Tom
 
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Parts def went to a good home 🏡 You left out the best part, you got to hang out with C Walker and me and watch Chris dismantle my Sprint parts coupe in record time 🤣
Yes, you are correct that was really the best part of the road trip, getting to meet two members face to face. It was fun to meet you and CWalker in person and hang out and talk cars. Especially the part where you busted my chops about picking up parts for my Mustang in a foreign car, LOL.
In my defense I had ordered a new Rubicon in July and then the UAW went on strike and the first plant they struck was, of course, the fricking Jeep plant. My lease on the '21 Rubicon was up in September and I needed a car. I went without for over a month or so, driving my Camaro as somewhat of a daily driver, but winter was coming, so I bought a different car in late October. The Jeep I had ordered in July did not arrive at the dealership until February. They called me and asked if I still wanted to buy it, but I had already bought the other car back in October. I really miss that Jeep though, the car I am driving is much more refined and sophisticated, (I myself, am neither refined nor sophisticated) and truth be told more age appropriate, but not nearly as much fun.:cry:
 
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Hi Bob

I don't know if you have a tilt or standard column, but I have had both in this one car. I purchased both of my turn signal switches from Rock Auto also, so I assume they were the same brand as you have.

I rebuilt and refinished my standard column first and installed all new switches. The non-tilt steering column turn signal switch came with a connector on it. As I recall, the harness on the new switch was a little shorter than the the harness on the switch I replaced. This did not present an issue with plugging in to the dash harness when I installed the standard column. Everything plugged in fine and worked properly. These are the only pics I have of the standard column.

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I purchased a tilt column and then restored and refinished that column. The tilt column turn signal switch was also bought from Rock Auto. That switch comes without a connector and I had to splice in the original connector to the switch. The tilt column turn signal switch you can make the harness as long as you care to by using more of the original switch harness.
A previous owner had obviously replaced the switch at one time and just twisted the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. Obviously, that is not the way that I would recommend it to be done. I used solderless butt connectors and shrink wrapped them to try and make it a safer and more professional appearing repair.

View attachment 88021

View attachment 88023

If you have a standard column and think the new switch harness is going to be too short you could splice the old switch connector and an extra 5" of wire to the end of the new switch harness and get your 5" back. The connector should be fine, unless a short in the past damaged it. the switch is what wears out and fails. Just an idea if you think the shorter harness is going to be an issue.

Tom
Thanks for this reply Tom! Great information and pictures. Yeah my steering column is the tilt. I thought about splicing but gosh hated the thought of cobbling up a brand new harness. The turn switch listed on the NPD site also had a “review” comment that said a buyer ran into the 5” shorter wire also but it didn’t say who made theirs. That’s when I called Scott Drake. They were really helpful and said that there length was also 18” and probably any that I would find with the ford number D6AZ-13341-A would be the same. So when I saw your post I thought how did this perfectionist (as a major compliment) approach it? Seeing your picture of your splices is worth a thousand words. It turned out great and I really appreciate your response. Now it’s time for me to quit studying this situation and pull my steering column. Thanks again,

Bob
 
I got a lot done on Saturday, although it doesn't look much different. I blocked down the rest of the body shell and the doors and deck lid in final preparation for paint. I didn't take any picks as there isn't much to see that is different from when these parts were last primed, they are just a lot smoother. A baby's bottom would be a good reference, LOL.
Next Saturday, my friend Mike and I plan to get the body in the spray booth and all masked up. We are planning to paint the inside of the doors and decklid and possibly the bottom of the hood in the prep station. We are going to paint and clear coat the body and the inner doors and deck lid and maybe the door hinges and other smaller parts. This is how I painted my other cars, (pics of my Camaro when I painted that) working in the small parts as I paint the larger parts. This avoids having to deal with the hinges, extensions, marker bezels, mirrors etc. all at the end.
 

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I finally got the Mustang in the spray booth yesterday, It has been about two and a half years since I bought it and I started to think it would never get painted. I am going back to the body shop this morning to finish up a few things and get the car unmasked and the spray booth and prep station cleared out and cleaned up so the painters can get back to work tomorrow. I will take some pics and post them later today or tomorrow. I think it turned out pretty nice! Can't wait to add some black at the bottom and down the hood and start reassembly. :D

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I finally got the Mustang in the spray booth yesterday, It has been about two and a half years since I bought it and I started to think it would never get painted. I am going back to the body shop this morning to finish up a few things and get the car unmasked and the spray booth and prep station cleared out and cleaned up so the painters can get back to work tomorrow. I will take some pics and post them later today or tomorrow. I think it turned out pretty nice! Can't wait to add some black at the bottom and down the hood and start reassembly. :D

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Looking real nice. Way to go!
 
Wasn’t it supposed to be WW ? Not Grabber Blue 🤷🏽‍♂️
Actually it is Wimbledon White, I just posted some of @revsitup's paint booth pics to see if anyone said anything. Considering how I flip flopped back and forth on the the two colors I thought I would post some pics of his gorgeous Grabber Blue Mach in the booth as a joke to see if anyone noticed the color change.
 
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I did actually have the car in the booth this weekend, though. I got most of the sheet metal painted the Wimbledon White base and clear coated. I will still need to paint the top of the hood, the marker lamp bezels, and the door and trunk hinge bolts white yet. Then I will need to get the car assembled and doors and fenders aligned and then paint the satin black on the bottom of the car and in the center of the hood. I will also need to paint the front and rear valence with the satin black. I still need to get back around to the front bumper. It has a low spot on the top where it was dented down slightly. I still haven't decided the best way to handle that so it got placed on the back burner for a bit.
Otherwise I am pretty happy with the way the real paint job on my actual car came out. Maybe not quite as nice as @revsitup's Grabber Blue car but it has a nice shine for a white car. I do so love that Wimbledon White. I think it will look great once it cures up and I wet sand and buff it.

Here are some pics of it in the booth on Saturday:

Mach 1 837.jpgMach 1 838.jpgMach 1 839.jpgMach 1 839a.jpg

Here are the individual panels after paint:

Mach 1 841.jpgMach 1 843.jpgMach 1 849.jpgMach 1 850.jpgMach 1 853.jpgMach 1 855.jpg

A few more panel pics:

Mach 1 857.jpgMach 1 858.jpg
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We did a lot of prep and spraying this weekend, We sprayed gallons of white and clear. We will probably feel it tomorrow but the panels and the body all turned out pretty well, I think. I am just happy to see it in color, For a while there, I wasn't sure that day was ever coming. :D

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I thought I would post a few pics of it unmasked:

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Here's a few outside in the sunshine:

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I got everything tucked away over in the extra body shop space where they are letting me store the car. Until another day. :cry:

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