Are these hoses connected correctly?

torbsim · Jun 15, 2024

Hi everyone, I would like to draw on your expertise once again.

The previous owner used the hoses with the following connections, but I would like to make sure that these are correct, as I have already experienced a lot when refurbishing the Mustang. Please help me briefly if the connections are correct:

First:

Is orange correct from the metal to the blue emisson canister? I assume that it is the exhaust gas recirculation?

Nothing was currently connected to red, so that can't be correct. Which connection is missing there and where does it go?

Second:

Then there is green which is connected to the valve and goes to the black a/c vacuum canister. is that correct?

Thanks for your support
Ben

Doug's 73 Mach1 · Jun 16, 2024

The orange is correct. It is for recovering fuel vapor from the gas tank. Fuel vapor is pushed into the blue canister generally while the car is off and the gas tank heats up while sitting on hot pavement or generally heats up on a warm day. There should also be a paper tube that also connects to the blue canister and the air cleaner that sucks the fuel vaper into the air cleaner while the engine is running.

The red connects to an intake manifold vacuum port to help the automatic transmission shift gears.

The green is also correct. It is a vacuum connection for the heater/ AC system black canister that provides vacuum to the various vacuum actuated items in that system. One of those being the valve in the heater hose in your pictures

mrgmhale · Jun 17, 2024

Below are some file links to my Google Drive that will help you determine what vacuum line goes where. From your photos I could not tell the year Mustang you have, so the info I have provided is for 1973. If you have a 1973 year model Mustang, the 1973 Emission Control related documentation is from Volume 6 of the 1973 Shop Manual. You will find a section on the Fuel Vapor Control system, as well as the vacuum schematics for 1973 engines. The 71-72 emission control systems are very similar to 1973. Below are is also a link to some YouTube videos I did on the routing of the fuel evaporative lines for the Fuel Vapor Control system.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mH8-WcYBqjqUyN7QHyVF6wxFRZ82AfBQ?usp=drive_link

https://youtu.be/n9woMnHByts

https://youtu.be/ZasC4GH1XUo

https://youtu.be/SsbtiPWY9sU

If you have a 71 or 72 Mustang, the following link is for = a PDF file for all vacuum schematics from 1968 - 1972.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZmOXEcNhDDPe884gi37HYdA-rDfcU6U8/view?usp=drive_link

Let me know if you have any questions or concerns, using this forum's messaging system.

torbsim · Jun 17, 2024

As always. You are awesome guys. Thank you so much for the support and @mrgmhale for all the details. Saved tons of videos from you in my personal list.
Ben

torbsim · Jun 22, 2024

mrgmhale said:
Below are some file links to my Google Drive that will help you determine what vacuum line goes where. From your photos I could not tell the year Mustang you have, so the info I have provided is for 1973. If you have a 1973 year model Mustang, the 1973 Emission Control related documentation is from Volume 6 of the 1973 Shop Manual. You will find a section on the Fuel Vapor Control system, as well as the vacuum schematics for 1973 engines. The 71-72 emission control systems are very similar to 1973. Below are is also a link to some YouTube videos I did on the routing of the fuel evaporative lines for the Fuel Vapor Control system.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mH8-WcYBqjqUyN7QHyVF6wxFRZ82AfBQ?usp=drive_link

https://youtu.be/n9woMnHByts

https://youtu.be/ZasC4GH1XUo

https://youtu.be/SsbtiPWY9sU

If you have a 71 or 72 Mustang, the following link is for = a PDF file for all vacuum schematics from 1968 - 1972.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZmOXEcNhDDPe884gi37HYdA-rDfcU6U8/view?usp=drive_link

Let me know if you have any questions or concerns, using this forum's messaging system.

Thank you for all your documents and notes @mrgmhale . I have an H-Code 1973 351C with A/C. However, I have not found these specifications in the manual. I have found the 351C V4 but not V2, or are they identical? Some info would be incredibly helpful as I don't think the valves are currently fitted correctly.

Thanks
Ben

Doug's 73 Mach1 · Jun 24, 2024

4V and 2V are same with regard to the hoses in question. There is supposed to be a special "S" shaped hose used between firewall heater hose connection and the vacuum controlled valve. That "S" hose keeps that valve up higher off of the valve cover. That special hose used to be reproduced, not sure if it still is. Turns out CJ lists it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/heater-control-valve-to-heater-core-molded-hose-mustang/p/CAA18112/

rvanamb · Jun 25, 2024

Doug's 73 Mach1 said:
4V and 2V are same with regard to the hoses in question. There is supposed to be a special "S" shaped hose used between firewall heater hose connection and the vacuum controlled valve. That "S" hose keeps that valve up higher off of the valve cover. That special hose used to be reproduced, not sure if it still is. Turns out CJ lists it. https://www.cjponyparts.com/heater-control-valve-to-heater-core-molded-hose-mustang/p/CAA18112/

I was just looking into this I believe if you go to rockauto.com and search part number 87679 for the S shaped hose $5.22, and part number 80405 for 5/8 heater hose with 90 degree on one end $13.07 each(you need two). Both are Dayco hoses. So for $31 bucks plus shipping you could have hoses that fit nicely. I am about to order them myself. I will update on the fitment when they show up. With a bit of research you can find parts way cheaper that while not listed for our application should work. Worth it to avoid the classic car premium pricing. Also found part HV1022C which is the heater valve for $7.43. Total with tax and shipping $61.40. Should be here July 3rd so I will update how everything fits with pictures.

torbsim · Jun 28, 2024

The parts and installation for the coolant hoses have definitely been successfully completed by myself. My main concern here is the vacuum hoses. I am having trouble finding the correct hose installation for the V2 but I have just read that there are no differences between the 351C V2 and V4. I'll see if I can get it installed this weekend.

rvanamb · Jun 28, 2024

torbsim said:
The parts and installation for the coolant hoses have definitely been successfully completed by myself. My main concern here is the vacuum hoses. I am having trouble finding the correct hose installation for the V2 but I have just read that there are no differences between the 351C V2 and V4. I'll see if I can get it installed this weekend.

Didn't see a picture, do you have vacuum lines connected to the vacuum canister? It's the other can right next to the vapor canister you have circled in orange. Large input vacuum hose, small output going to HVAC system. It provides a large area of vacuum to support the HVAC functions, basically input vacuum to heat and AC controls. Works like a accumulator accommodating changes in vacuum demand.

torbsim · Jul 1, 2024

Yes @rvanamb . im done with this correctly. Thanks

Stanglover · Jul 1, 2024

Ben, I'm just looking at this post for the first time. I've been off site for a while.
I don't know 73's, but the help you've been given is top notch.
However, I see one thing that really gets me going and I hope it does you too. That is the use of GEAR CLAMPS on hoses that should have correct style clamps, all of which are available. Gear clamps do have there uses and in some cases are correct, BUT not everywhere, especially fuel lines. They are very useful for temporary use while setting up or when you need to remove hoses while working on the engine, but that's it. Not only are they a potential weak point but they just look plain ugly and give the impression the owner just doesn't care.
This of course is my opinion, it's your car, your way.

torbsim · Jul 1, 2024

Stanglover said:
Ben, I'm just looking at this post for the first time. I've been off site for a while.
I don't know 73's, but the help you've been given is top notch.
However, I see one thing that really gets me going and I hope it does you too. That is the use of GEAR CLAMPS on hoses that should have correct style clamps, all of which are available. Gear clamps do have there uses and in some cases are correct, BUT not everywhere, especially fuel lines. They are very useful for temporary use while setting up or when you need to remove hoses while working on the engine, but that's it. Not only are they a potential weak point but they just look plain ugly and give the impression the owner just doesn't care.
This of course is my opinion, it's your car, your way.

What are you using at this point? I try to use the original parts or reproductions everywhere.

Stanglover · Jul 1, 2024

torbsim said:
What are you using at this point? I try to use the original parts or reproductions everywhere.

Surprisingly, I don't seem to have a lot of pics on file that actually show the type of clamps I use. I do see correct tower clamps on your heater hoses at the firewall and those are good in different sizes for other hose fittings. On fuel lines, clamps as seen in this (bad) pic or spring clamps seen on the tank outlet are preferred. Sorry about the poor pic quality, but I think you'll get the idea.
I would think that most auto stores nearby have these or similar. In the US, one can buy these clamps by the boxful in various sizes. Maybe you can there to.

torbsim · Jul 1, 2024

Indeed and i used some everywhere i could, unfortunately i had not enough for every hose. but im fine with it for the first version.

rvanamb · Aug 25, 2024

rvanamb said:
I was just looking into this I believe if you go to rockauto.com and search part number 87679 for the S shaped hose $5.22, and part number 80405 for 5/8 heater hose with 90 degree on one end $13.07 each(you need two). Both are Dayco hoses. So for $31 bucks plus shipping you could have hoses that fit nicely. I am about to order them myself. I will update on the fitment when they show up. With a bit of research you can find parts way cheaper that while not listed for our application should work. Worth it to avoid the classic car premium pricing. Also found part HV1022C which is the heater valve for $7.43. Total with tax and shipping $61.40. Should be here July 3rd so I will update how everything fits with pictures.

I just wanted to let you know that everything fits pretty well. Each of the 3 hoses is a few inches longer than needed. This is nice since they cut really easily with a razor knife, allowing you to get the perfect fit. The two hoses with the 90-degree ends on one side worked well, one 90 on the outlet of the heater core, and the other on the outlet from the water pump. HV1022C looks exactly like the one it replaces so that seems good also. Currently also putting in a one-wire 100 amp alternator and the water temp sensor for the Aces Killshot EFI I am installing soon. It is much easier to get to the hoses with the alternator out. Also sorry about all the dust, still haven't cleaned out the engine bay since I stripped and repainted the car, but it is on the long to-do list. My entire garage is dusty at this point. When the car is ready to go outside need to do some serious cleaning.

California 72 · Aug 27, 2024

Noticed a valve on the heater hose. Understanding this actually stops the flow of hot water to the heater core when cooling is on, I have factory air but no valve? Are these available still and could you possibly post the schematic or pic of how it all connects in the vacuum scheme of things.

Some really useful knowledge here! Definitely going to come in handy when I finally start reassembly. Thanks all and the OP too, for asking the original question.

Also, has anyone found a source(s) for the paper line to the evap canister? Everywhere I've looked, it's OS or obsolete. Just planned a piece of rubber hose when the time comes.

rvanamb · Aug 27, 2024

The valve is part number HV1022C you can buy it from rock auto, along with all the hoses. I listed all the past numbers in a previous post on this thread. I think total cost for every hose shipped was only around 60. In my last picture you see the two small vacuum lines coming down directly above the valve. Those are from the HVAC system. One connects to the valve the other to the vacuum canister.

rhigg1959 · Aug 28, 2024

I tried a few different aftermarket valves that would not completely shut off the hot water and was affecting the performance of the AC. I finally ordered this manual valve from Amazon and it worked perfect. I did not install the choke cable to operate it. I will do that manually summer/winter

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Universal Air Conditioner HV 2211C HVAC Heater Control Valve

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California 72 · Aug 28, 2024

Thanks to you both. I remember using the manual version on my '66 F100. It was basic heat and 2x2-60 air. and the fact the heater core was supplied indefinitely, made for some very interestingly hot summer afternoons in this area.
Okay, caveat time for the age impaired, if there are any out there, that's 2 windows and 2 vent wings open at 60mph. Hey, when we first got the truck, our then 14-year-old daughter asked, "what are those turney-cranky things on the door?" I swear to goodness, that's what she asked. After we stopped laughing, we explained to her there was a time when power windows weren't standard or even available.

Are these hoses connected correctly?

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